Free Horsepower by tightening 1 clamp!
The mod where you adjust the hoses on the boost control solenoid sounds interesting. Has anyone else done it, and are there pictures somewhere. This is the first I have heard about it.
Originally posted by naucrx
Nope. No boost controller and holding 19 psi to redline. I posted a poll a few weeks ago about it, but not many people read it.
My only "go-fast" mods are the 1G BOV and JIC exhaust.
Nope. No boost controller and holding 19 psi to redline. I posted a poll a few weeks ago about it, but not many people read it.
My only "go-fast" mods are the 1G BOV and JIC exhaust.
Not intending to question but just curious...How did you verify that you were holding boost to redline? I assume you have a boost gauge but I did not see you mention it anywhere. Thanks!
Brent
Originally posted by Racer RS X
The mod where you adjust the hoses on the boost control solenoid sounds interesting. Has anyone else done it, and are there pictures somewhere. This is the first I have heard about it.
The mod where you adjust the hoses on the boost control solenoid sounds interesting. Has anyone else done it, and are there pictures somewhere. This is the first I have heard about it.
Originally posted by BLiu
Hey Naucrx,
Not intending to question but just curious...How did you verify that you were holding boost to redline? I assume you have a boost gauge but I did not see you mention it anywhere. Thanks!
Brent
Hey Naucrx,
Not intending to question but just curious...How did you verify that you were holding boost to redline? I assume you have a boost gauge but I did not see you mention it anywhere. Thanks!
Brent

Originally posted by 93civEJ1
yes i am curious as well....how would you control boost then without some sort of control?? the wastegate isnt 19lbs is it?? also what do you do with the open vacuum hoses you now unattached from it??
yes i am curious as well....how would you control boost then without some sort of control?? the wastegate isnt 19lbs is it?? also what do you do with the open vacuum hoses you now unattached from it??
Originally posted by naucrx
Boost gauge, correct, sorry about that. I went on a drive in December with a local guy and we both confirmed that our boost was dropping down to 15 after 5500rpm or so. So after I swapped out BOVs last month I paid close attention to my gauge and it reads 19 all the way to redline.
Boost gauge, correct, sorry about that. I went on a drive in December with a local guy and we both confirmed that our boost was dropping down to 15 after 5500rpm or so. So after I swapped out BOVs last month I paid close attention to my gauge and it reads 19 all the way to redline.

Thanks! BTW, Nice Boost Gauge!
I am thinking, perhaps, when you changed out the BOV, you also corrected the problem...
Did you have a boost guage after you did the tightening of the stock BOV clamps and verify that it was still tapering?
The big problem is that we all don't have a boost gauge to verify if this simple tightening of the screws would rectify the boost taper issue but it does makes sense...
Brent
Last edited by BLiu; Apr 8, 2004 at 11:30 AM.
Originally posted by Cirrusly Evolvd
As I stated in the post, you run a U-joint between them so that it's one continuous loop. Otherwise you'd leak all your boost out. I trust what the Service Advisor told me and he showed me how he did it on his car. He says the wastegate holds 19 psi all day long since he did that.
As I stated in the post, you run a U-joint between them so that it's one continuous loop. Otherwise you'd leak all your boost out. I trust what the Service Advisor told me and he showed me how he did it on his car. He says the wastegate holds 19 psi all day long since he did that.
Originally posted by BLiu
Hi Naucrx,
Thanks! BTW, Nice Boost Gauge!
I am thinking, perhaps, when you changed out the BOV, you also corrected the problem...
Did you have a boost guage after you did the tightening of the stock BOV clamps and verify that it was still tapering?
The big problem is that we all don't have a boost gauge to verify if this simple tightening of the screws would rectify the boost taper issue but it does makes sense...
Brent
Hi Naucrx,
Thanks! BTW, Nice Boost Gauge!
I am thinking, perhaps, when you changed out the BOV, you also corrected the problem...
Did you have a boost guage after you did the tightening of the stock BOV clamps and verify that it was still tapering?
The big problem is that we all don't have a boost gauge to verify if this simple tightening of the screws would rectify the boost taper issue but it does makes sense...
Brent
It's a fairly inexpensive mod and IMO everyone should make that the first thing they do.
I think I paid about $65 for my gauge and pod, and spent about an hour or so on the installation. I'll be the first to admit my boost gauge install is rather ghetto, and definately an example of something "low budget". lol
Originally posted by Monkey
So just run to Lowe's and buy a U-joint and then cap off the holes on the solenoid with duct tape or something?
So just run to Lowe's and buy a U-joint and then cap off the holes on the solenoid with duct tape or something?
Be sure to leave the solenoid electrical plug connected or you'll get a CEL.
you do not have to bypass the the solenoid. just remove the restricter out of the lower hose. i've done this to a few evos that were having low boost problems. you get 22-24psi of boost with no fuel cut or any damaging condition to the car. bypassing the boost solenoid will cause an over boost condition that will be damaging to the car. not to mention the solenoid is controlled by the ecu and if it is not being seen by the ecu will cause a failsafe condition and go full rich. just some simple advice
Originally posted by mitsupwr
you do not have to bypass the the solenoid. just remove the restricter out of the lower hose. i've done this to a few evos that were having low boost problems. you get 22-24psi of boost with no fuel cut or any damaging condition to the car. bypassing the boost solenoid will cause an over boost condition that will be damaging to the car. not to mention the solenoid is controlled by the ecu and if it is not being seen by the ecu will cause a failsafe condition and go full rich. just some simple advice
you do not have to bypass the the solenoid. just remove the restricter out of the lower hose. i've done this to a few evos that were having low boost problems. you get 22-24psi of boost with no fuel cut or any damaging condition to the car. bypassing the boost solenoid will cause an over boost condition that will be damaging to the car. not to mention the solenoid is controlled by the ecu and if it is not being seen by the ecu will cause a failsafe condition and go full rich. just some simple advice
The second part I disagree, since the mod is to leave the electric plug on, which means the ECU does see the wastegate still.
Now, taking out the restrictor is a bit scary to me, cuz that introduces the issue of increased boost. It may not damage the car in the short run but you never know what increased boost will have assuming everything else on the car is still stock...JMHO...but what do i know...
Brent
Ok, it sounds like another low cost mod. Sorry about so many discussions under one thread, but I am curious about this latest post.
Which restrictor are we talking about. My car is a few miles away at home so I can't run out and take a look at it. With the restrictor removed, does the car still have control to prevent overboost conditions and other problems?
Which restrictor are we talking about. My car is a few miles away at home so I can't run out and take a look at it. With the restrictor removed, does the car still have control to prevent overboost conditions and other problems?
i was ok'd by mitsubishi techline to fix a underboost condition under warranty. they would not allow me to fix the car this way unless it was safe. and the solenoid knows when to shut off and on by measuring vein pressure timing advance and a few others by taking that out of the loop the ecu does not see vein press. so it puts the car into a failsafe type condition. the solenoid will still bleed off boost but it will peak at 22-24psi then bleed off to 19-21psi.
the solenoid will still prevent a overboost condition.
the solenoid will still prevent a overboost condition.
Originally posted by mitsupwr
i was ok'd by mitsubishi techline to fix a underboost condition under warranty. they would not allow me to fix the car this way unless it was safe. and the solenoid knows when to shut off and on by measuring vein pressure timing advance and a few others by taking that out of the loop the ecu does not see vein press. so it puts the car into a failsafe type condition. the solenoid will still bleed off boost but it will peak at 22-24psi then bleed off to 19-21psi.
the solenoid will still prevent a overboost condition.
i was ok'd by mitsubishi techline to fix a underboost condition under warranty. they would not allow me to fix the car this way unless it was safe. and the solenoid knows when to shut off and on by measuring vein pressure timing advance and a few others by taking that out of the loop the ecu does not see vein press. so it puts the car into a failsafe type condition. the solenoid will still bleed off boost but it will peak at 22-24psi then bleed off to 19-21psi.
the solenoid will still prevent a overboost condition.
But for the benefit of others, could you give us a little more detail as to where this restrictor is and how it looks like? Maybe a pic? Thanks for you help!
Brent


