Why do people like the 4.11 FD
#17
Evolving Member
As some people know I am in the middle of rebuilding my trans. I went with a 4.11 over the 4.31. I drove a friend's 2.3 6466 with a stock FD, and I sincerely don't believe that a 4.3 FD would be enough to calm it down in the lower gears. I dont believe I will be going to ridiculous HP, but I would like to keep my 2nd gear use-able. I also drove another evo with the 4.11 and scratching at 500 hp, and in 2nd/3rd it was plenty fun. And for me, until I finish playing around with some suspension design things I dont want to run a 26" tire or tires that I cant run when it drizzles.
#18
Evolving Member
450ftlbs in an AX car means no course made could keep me off the rev limiter. It was super frustrating to constantly be on that limiter but we also logged > 1.0g of acceleration. Now we can get upwards of 0.9g. You'd think that top speed doesnt matter that much, but there were course Id just have to run in 3rd cause the gearing was just right in the wrong range. I also had one year at nats where I had to upshift 5 times to 3rd. That was so unsettling I couldn't ever get myself to fully drive the car.
So 4.31 might be enough, but 4.11 isn't feeling like a hindrance at this point.
So 4.31 might be enough, but 4.11 isn't feeling like a hindrance at this point.
A GTA auto needs the opposite direction for a ratio swap to match a man with 4:11fd
A GTA is 3.334fd and equates to 20% longer revs vs speed than a std 4.5fd 5spd man box
The fix is a Legnum 3.684fd auto crown and pinion = 10% less speed. Matches a man 4.11fd
So a GTA 2lt lack of accel out of corners is because it's like a 3.7fd in a 5spd man
You would hate that on track Dallas
#21
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
So you almost the same overall ratio 1st and 2nd, but longer 3rd/4th/5th.
I really like it in my setup, it means it's still easy to drive in 1st and 2nd gear.
Here is my old post I dug up - https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...nal-drive.html
But you can't buy any of these parts from Mitsubishi anymore!
Used parts only
#23
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
You'd just have to do the math to see what speed you'd reach in each gear and decide what you need.
My ultimate combo is 4.31 final, Evo8 1st, rest OEM.
This would effectively be stock ratio 1st for launching, 5% taller everywhere else. At 8k Id hit 72.5mph and I can overrev to 8250-8500 for 75-78mph. We do weird things for autox...
My ultimate combo is 4.31 final, Evo8 1st, rest OEM.
This would effectively be stock ratio 1st for launching, 5% taller everywhere else. At 8k Id hit 72.5mph and I can overrev to 8250-8500 for 75-78mph. We do weird things for autox...
#24
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
I did the 4.11FD since I have a 2.3 and haven't regretted it one bit. It's much better cruising on the highway, and even around town the gearing is more optimal, for me at least. Stock gearing was too short for me. When I first got it done my car only made 350-ish wheel torque and definitely felt a bit sluggish, but this year my car put down 595 torque on a mustang dyno and it pulls through just fine. I kept the Evo 9 1st gear and do wish I went with Raifs advice and got the Evo 8 as launching is a bit trickier, but when I have him refresh the trans I'll probably have him change that out for me.
#25
Evolved Member
iTrader: (25)
The V6 Turbo Legnum's here in NZ have a short ratio 1st and 2nd, with the same 3rd/4th/5th as the Evo (with 4.111 final drive).
So you almost the same overall ratio 1st and 2nd, but longer 3rd/4th/5th.
I really like it in my setup, it means it's still easy to drive in 1st and 2nd gear.
Here is my old post I dug up - https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...nal-drive.html
But you can't buy any of these parts from Mitsubishi anymore!
Used parts only
So you almost the same overall ratio 1st and 2nd, but longer 3rd/4th/5th.
I really like it in my setup, it means it's still easy to drive in 1st and 2nd gear.
Here is my old post I dug up - https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...nal-drive.html
But you can't buy any of these parts from Mitsubishi anymore!
Used parts only
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