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Just a question out of curiosity. In the OP's design, I see that routing the oil to the front of the pan helps in preventing/reducing starvation to the oil pump via the pickup.
What would be your thoughts on routing the return line of the oil cooler to the front of the oil pan vs back to the oil filter housing?
- What are the pros and cons if any?
- Would this idea even work?
Just a question out of curiosity. In the OP's design, I see that routing the oil to the front of the pan helps in preventing/reducing starvation to the oil pump via the pickup.
What would be your thoughts on routing the return line of the oil cooler to the front of the oil pan vs back to the oil filter housing?
- What are the pros and cons if any?
- Would this idea even work?
Looking forward to hearing your thoughts.
The oil cooler is fed by the high pressure side of the pump. You can't route the pump byass return to it; it wouldn't be a bypass anymore.
I'm 90% through designing a new sheet-metal Evo 4-9 sump.
There is just a few finishing touches to be made then it's ready for prototyping.
The plan is compete against the Moroso/AMS and Racefab sumps on the market, while incorporating the external oil pressure regulator into the pan.
This cuts down on packaging restrictions and makes it super simple for customer's to use.
If you're going to go through all of that trouble, then fix the inherent issue with the pan design, Make all areas of the pan drain down to the pickup.
Also, I noticed your flange is flat. It curves around the oil pump which is probably the most annoying part of making a new pan.
If you're going to go through all of that trouble, then fix the inherent issue with the pan design, Make all areas of the pan drain down to the pickup.
You can do that only if you re route the exhaust.. Might be the reason some of the WRC evo's routed the exhaust OVER the gearbox
The kink around the oil pump is a pain in the a$$ to make.
To the OP.. no need to overcomplicate with the baffles.. You need one in front, to control oil movement to the extension, and one towards the pass side of the sump, to limit loss in right hand corners.. In left hand corners it is full of oil anyhow..
Getting a custom downpipe made isn't that outrageous of task. Well worth the pay off of not having to worry about oil starvation.
I agree with you 100%. The issue might be the AC compressor that is in the way of a nice free flowing exhaust routing. If you remove it, why not got dry sump at that point..
I agree with you 100%. The issue might be the AC compressor that is in the way of a nice free flowing exhaust routing. If you remove it, why not got dry sump at that point..
Because a proper pan and a downpipe would be under $2k and a dry sump setup is $6-10k. And not many people actually NEED a dry sump. And dry sump means a second accessory belt to keep track of, an external reservoir that takes forever to heat up oil if it even gets up to temp at all on the street, an extra 10-25 places for oil to leak from, a more complicated crankcase venting setup, and an external oil pump that needs to be serviced more than an internal oil pump does. And FWIW I'd bet it'd be possible to keep AC with an alternate exhaust route.
The only times a dry sump is 100% necessary is in airplanes, when a car is restricted by a ruleset and is looking for every single last horsepower, and when a car makes enough downforce to pop tires. There are tons of very fast cars with wet sumps, there's also a ton of slow cars with dry sumps.
I'm 90% through designing a new sheet-metal Evo 4-9 sump.
There is just a few finishing touches to be made then it's ready for prototyping.
The plan is compete against the Moroso/AMS and Racefab sumps on the market, while incorporating the external oil pressure regulator into the pan.
This cuts down on packaging restrictions and makes it super simple for customer's to use.
Awesome enginuity, and lovely design. How much quarts do you anticipate this to hold +/-?
If you're going to go through all of that trouble, then fix the inherent issue with the pan design, Make all areas of the pan drain down to the pickup.
Also, I noticed your flange is flat. It curves around the oil pump which is probably the most annoying part of making a new pan.
Looking forward to seeing what you make.
Seems to me the oil pan is angled to drain down already. Sheet metal oil pans might be tricky to weld up since you have to worry about the warpage. Overall this design looks ready for production. If anything I would add internal and external ribs or gussets to strengthen the pan. Make it strong enough to support the weight of the block or a jack.
Seems to me the oil pan is angled to drain down already. Sheet metal oil pans might be tricky to weld up since you have to worry about the warpage. Overall this design looks ready for production. If anything I would add internal and external ribs or gussets to strengthen the pan. Make it strong enough to support the weight of the block or a jack.
Yeah - almost ready.
I've got to CNC the oil pump "curved" section of the top flange.
But before that happens I need to measure that accurately with a probe on a mill.
The OEM unit is only 1.2mm stamped mild steel. So i'll use 1.6mm mild steel and i'll put some gussets and ribs for strength.
Then the top baffle plate needs to be added on, I may do this as a bolted on unit rather than welded. So you can pull this off for cleaning etc.
Jul 23, 2020, 08:00 AM
