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Because contaminants will be caught by a normal oil filter? Using an Amsoil bypass filter in combination with a race filter like the Setrab will result in worse filtration than just using a normal, high quality filter. The bypass filter only does 10% of the oil volume at a time, and the race filter doesn't filter out the particles smaller than 30 micron, which are large enough to cause wear. Racing non-bypass filters have their place, which is at the racetrack, where you want some filtration without the pressure loss of a normal filter and/or the bypass being open at all times (zero filtration). The Amsoil bypass filter catches particles smaller than 5 microns, which are actually not large enough to cause wear in the engine, because the oil does a great job of keeping them suspended if the additive package is working correctly. While it's certainly not going to hurt anything to have it, it seems extraneous to me.
I would use a normal oil filter and an oil with a very powerful detergent package (like Redline) for the next few oil changes, and then I wouldn't worry about it. If you want to switch to a racing filter when you're racing, that makes sense.
If you feel the oil bypass filter is extraneous then don't run it. Bypass or no bypass is irrelevant to the filtration discussion since the filter will only bypass if the pressure differential across the element exceeds the spring pressure, which should not occur. There is no data I have been able to find that says the OEM filter has better than 30 micron absolute (~99%) filtration since the WIX 7092 rating is 21 micron @ 95% efficiency and the 57055 is rated 15 microns "nominal," which WIX was unable to provide an efficiency rating for that term. Show me the data that says the OEM filter has better than 30 micron absolute (99%) filtration.
If you feel the oil bypass filter is extraneous then don't run it. Bypass or no bypass is irrelevant to the filtration discussion since the filter will only bypass if the pressure differential across the element exceeds the spring pressure, which should not occur. There is no data I have been able to find that says the OEM filter has better than 30 micron absolute (~99%) filtration since the WIX 7092 rating is 21 micron @ 95% efficiency and the 57055 is rated 15 microns "nominal," which WIX was unable to provide an efficiency rating for that term. Show me the data that says the OEM filter has better than 30 micron absolute (99%) filtration.
Thanks, I won't. I really wasn't trying to start a debate, but here goes: The OEM filter is rated to 40 microns absolute, which is worse than almost all aftermarket filters. Amsoil and a few other brands have better options good to 20 microns absolute according to ISO 4548-12:2017 (https://www.iso.org/standard/62763.html) which is a multi-pass test. Multi-pass tests are important because they are much closer to real world.
If you don't think the bypass is cracked open above, let's say, 4000rpm, you're kidding yourself. You don't think there's an 8-11psi pressure drop across a filter that restrictive? There absolutely is, especially with a good 5w40 or 5w50 in the crankcase. You can talk to any manufacturer of oil filters and they will confirm this, and of course it gets worse the longer into the OCI you are. This is the whole point of a non-bypass racing filter. High flow, so less pressure drop without going to zero (I probably shouldn't say zero as there is always some oil passing through the filter, but most is going around at high rpm) filtration like a bypass filter when you're beating the **** out of the car. Wix racing non-bypass filters are 50 microns absolute for this reason.
Do you have data on how efficient that Setrab filter is below 30 micron? Because I'm betting it's horrible. Stainless mesh doesn't filter like synthetic/cellulose media because there are no pores smaller than 30 micron, hence the higher flow rate. Other media can trap particles smaller because the pores are not symmetrical and vary in size.
Under the ISO definition, the micron rating at 98.7 % is considered "absolute." We often round that up to 99%. From the Baldwin Filter Site: "The term “nominal” micron rating typically means that the filter is capable of removing 50% of a specific size particle, however, some companies’ “nominal” micron ratings may range anywhere from 1 to 98.6% efficient at removing a specific particle size. The term “absolute” micron rating means that the filter is capable of removing at least 98.7% of a specific size particle. This rating is far more accurate."
Understand I am trying to capture any potential crap in the motor resulting from the worn oil pump so it does me no good to use the Amsoil EA filter (20 micron absolute 98.7%), which you contend bypasses the filter element. I would rather use the Setrab filter that doesn't bypass at 30 microns absolute (actually 100% because it is screen mesh so they claim) combined with the Amsoil bypass filter rated at 2 microns absolute (98.7%). BTW, Setrab has 2 version of the filter I purchased, one where the element is glued to the base (non bypass) and one where they don't glue the filter to the base (bypass). I happen to have the non bypass version.
Last edited by 240Z TwinTurbo; Aug 13, 2020 at 01:08 PM.
I tried to pressure test the pan using my fixture, which worked reasonably well. I secured the pan to the plate using every other screw and then I ran pressure through the pan with the regulator set to 25psi. While it was not enough to pressurize the pan, it did show me a single pinhole leak when I sprayed with soapy water, which I fixed. However, I can't take the chance of having the pan leak and then having to remove it again without damage and then weld on oil contaminated metal. Therefore, I decided to try and pressurize the pan to 5-10psi by ordering a piece of 1/8" silicon sheet to make a gasket and I will also drill/tap every single hole for the oil pan. I should have it done this weekend and start putting it back together.
Got the pan on yesterday and I was able to finish the custom lines today. I forgot to order a new end (-8 straight) for the lower oil cooler hose where it attaches to the oil cooler so that won't arrive until later this week. I will hook it up for now and then attach my impact driver to the oil pump and got ahead and pressurize the system. I can then put the car back together while I wait for that one hose end to arrive.
I was able to add oil and then prime the pump about 5-6 times as I added more oil. As of now the system has ~7.5qts of oil and it is halfway between fuel and empty on the dipstick, which includes the oil bypass filter that holds 0.8qts. Once the oil cooler thermostat opens it will drop the oil level so I am thinking this will hold about 8.25qts when all is said and done.
I got the timing belt back on, but need to set the tension on that damn bearing before I pull the grenade pin from the tensioner. I've got to read up again on how to do that, but from memory it wasn't too bad.
I was able to fire the car today with the 80psi spring in the regulator. After the gauge kicked on I noticed oil pressure was 140psi so I shut'r down. I then installed the 60psi spring and idle was ~100psi, but if I revved it to 2K RPM it would go to 120psi. I've called the shop to have them send me the lowest spring (one lower than what I have), but definitely I have enough oil pressure with the new oil pump. After running the car for ~1-2minutes (65psi oil pressure) I shut it off, but I never saw the pressure drop so I am not sure if the oil cooler was filled. As of now I am 8qts in and the oil level is slightly below the low mark. I'm going to top if off with another 1/2 quart and then drive it around the block for a few minutes to make sure the oil cooler gets filled so I can top it off. I hope I don't end up with a situation that I need to swap the 20w-50 for some 10W-40 to get pressure in check because I will have purchased $70 in oil that goes straight in the recycle tank.
The lower spring seems to work well and once warm idle sits around 23psi after several full boost passes. On the topend I am seeming around 90psi tapering to ~75psi at 8K RPM, but I still have the OEM HLA.
You should not be seeing oil pressure taper off out the top. I would be concerned that full flow filter doesn't flow enough.
That could be the case and seems logical. I'm going to run it around for a few days as is and just keep the RPM below 5K. The EA Bypass filter and the Seatrab non bypass filter can hopefully scrub the system before I go back to the conventional bypass filter. I have a new fitting I have to change on the lower oil cooler line anyway so I will swap the filter and the line at once.
Ryco does a 16 micron filter (@98.7%) with no relief valve.
Would no relief valve cause problems??
That is debatable as I have not seen any actual data to suggest the filters bypass. The posts I read regarding putting the pressure sensor before vs after the filter suggest a small pressure differential, but that is all anecdotal. I'm debating purchasing another sensor for my DEFI gauge and putting it in the other port so I can estimate the pressure differential.
Just in case the filter's do bypass that Ryco filter would be great as a break in filter so you are certain that 100% of the oil is filtered. BTW, thanks for sharing that information!
Swapped to a bypass filter and I see the exact same pressures, 90psi tapers to 75psi@8K.
I swapped back in the stiffer spring and I see 95psi on the hit quickly tapering to 80psi and then holding ~80psi to 8K RPM. I think this is normal and a buddy of mine sees the exact same pressure response under WOT, but he runs the ER under drive pulley. I think the pressure spike is just the initial response due to the bypass being closed and it just takes a second for the pressure to stabilize once the bypass fully opens. As of now I think I'm good so I can focus on swapping the Xona Greens for the new Gen2 GTX 3071r turbos on the GTR.
