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the only issue with SS is that when welding SS to SS you will want to weld it with SS wire, instead of brazing, and then you will want to back purge it to prevent sugaring on the inside.. Personally, I would stick to normal steel..
the only issue with SS is that when welding SS to SS you will want to weld it with SS wire, instead of brazing, and then you will want to back purge it to prevent sugaring on the inside.. Personally, I would stick to normal steel..
Thanks, I am familiar with those issues. Maybe I will do cold roll, but need to order rod since I never TIG mild steel. I would also then need to order 309L for the stainless fittings since all of my 309L is 3/32".
Last edited by 240Z TwinTurbo; Jul 13, 2020 at 12:56 PM.
Progress!
Are you running a Tomei crank scraper? Moving the pickup or adding trap doors like the Racefab pan? The added volume will help regardless but its nice to have a well sorted pan. The guys at racefab have worked on it for years.
Pics in this thread. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...-sump-pan.html
Progress!
Are you running a Tomei crank scraper? Moving the pickup or adding trap doors like the Racefab pan? The added volume will help regardless but its nice to have a well sorted pan. The guys at racefab have worked on it for years.
Pics in this thread. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...-sump-pan.html
When I chopped up the original pan and then looked at what everyone was doing, at least in terms of what people post, I had a grand idea to build a wild pan. However, I quickly put in perspective that my car is just a DD and I do not road race so my main concern was to make sure the car had sufficient oil when accelerating in a straight line. The Racefab pan looks great, but simply overkill for what I need. With that said, I will be adding two (2) baffles to the system and isolating around the sump like the JUN oil pan. I expect to add these things later today and will post pics, which will show you how the setup is configured. Going to add the isolation tube round the pickup like the JUN pan, but with a larger opening. On either side of that opening I am adding one way baffles into the front sump. Regarding the Tomei crank scraper, I feel it is overkill for what I am trying to achieve and the mods I am doing should be sufficient.
As of now I have everything tacked together, but because the pan requires three (3) different grades of welding rod and the silicone bronze TIG brazing rod, I can't complete until they all arrive. Tomorrow I will weld on the three (3) AN male bungs...
-10 (oil pressure regulator return)
-6 (Turbosmart turbo oil restrictor return)
-4 (2 micron bypass filter return)
I think the design is self explanatory and hopefully it will do the trick. I should have this completed by the weekend and ready for install.
Last edited by 240Z TwinTurbo; Jul 15, 2020 at 09:58 PM.
Just my luck the welding rod didn't show up so i'm stuck and can't get the pan finished. I need to TIG weld all of the mild steel to mild steel joints (ER706-6), SS to Mild Steel joints (ER309L), and SS to SS joints (308L) before TIG brazing the sump to the pan with Silicone Bronze. You pretty much have to TIG weld first since the brazing is at a much lower temperature and you have to overlap some TIG welds when you TIG braze.
Anyway, I decided to try a portion of the pan away from any TIG welds using the Silicone Bronze, which I have never done before. I started by making two passes on a piece of metal with amps turned to about 25 max with the ability to vary with the foot pedal. It only took me 2 passes to get the feel and much easier than I expected because people were complaining about it having a tight temperature window. It is supposedly tricky because you are not melting the parent metal and only melting the Silicone Bronze brazing rod onto the parent metal.
I then took a shot at the pan staying away from the TIG Weld joints that still need to be completed. Not too bad and it actually lays down easier than anticipated.
Got the Amsoil 2micron bypass filter mounted. I haven't put on the bumper to see if it fits, but don't think it will be a problem.
Filler rod finally arrived yesterday and I made good progress. Just need to clean it up and then weld/braze the bottom of the sump to the pan. I also need to devise a way to pressure check the pan because once you have a leak it is painful to have to pull the pan again and then get the leak clean for welding.
The pan is almost done and I added a 1/8" NPT port for a temp gauge should I choose to add that later, but there is one last thing I am going to do. Next, I have to figure out how to pressure test the welds/braze!
Brazing the pan is both easy and hard depending on the type of joint. When the interface of the pan and the mild steel sump is at 90deg the braze is easy. However, when the interface of the pan and the mild steel sump is a butt joint the pan tends to blow out because of the zinc coating. The butt joint exposes the edge of the pan, which is 2 very thin layers of zinc coated metal so as soon as the arc hits that edge it blows out, which requires that you clean the joint and dress the tungsten. Once I laid down a half *** braze I ground it down and then made a fresh pass to clean it up. Doing it again I would have designed the sump so that all of the braze interfaces were at 90deg's.
Got the new o-ring for the castle plug, but didn't feel comfortable tightening with a hammer and punch so I made my own socket using a 1-1/16" socket and spent about 15 minutes with the grinder with a cutoff wheel. Not pretty, but it worked like a champ!
I installed the -4 AN fittings to the oil bypass filter mount with the inlet (on the right) having the adjustable orifice, which I chose initially to use ~0.045" (0.030" / 0.045" / 0.060").
I had to also adjust the height of the oil pickup because it was smashing on the bottom of the pan. The stock gap from the bottom of the pickup to the pan is in the 0.100" range based on what I measured when the pan was cut open. I cut off the bottom of the pickup and then welded on a piece of stainless plate to it, but upon initial mockup with clay it was too large of a gap. I then added the stock piece I initially cut off, which gives me slightly over 0.200" of clearance at the closest point. From everything I read you want it to be at least 0.25" so I think based on stock being much closer I should be good to go. The first pic is the initial mockup and the next pic is me adding back the factory piece I cut off, but it was significantly trimmed down.
