I tried to find some black ABS plastic local, but was unsuccessful. Should probably just buy a piece online and use the heat gun to form it and attach with rivets to the factory plastic duct. Would save a lot of time and hassle.

 

They are! Been there, done that...
Now too old to deal with working on the car more than I drive it. I've noticed my priorities change dramatically, the past few years. I'm lazier. LOL

 

That's what I would propose and meant , also if you wish to use carbon, instead of buying cloth, resin, shape the foam, apply cloth and resin, etc, you can buy dry carbon 2x2 wave, solid pieces, make a precise cardborad model of the air duct extension , cut the carbon according to the model, and join the pieces.






Marios

 

Which company made this custom turbo for you?

 

-Sun Top Hi-Tech industries, in Jiangsu, China.


-Turbo was custom made, according to my specs, not off the shelf item.
(wheels aero design, shaft specs, bearing system specs, housings-type,material,a/r)







Marios

 

It turns out the oil pump was about to take a dump so most likely the cause of my issue. Not sure what to do at this point since I have only torn down the setup to remove the oil pump and inspect. The bearing for the main pump gear was starting to eat itself up and I had to pound it out with a hammer because it was stuck in the cover. The bearing for the main pump gear is fairly enclosed with only a small path to lubricate the front of the pump gear against the housing. If you look at the picture below, the pump gear shaft bearing has scoring and the housing bearing have significant scoring. However, when I pulled the stuby shaft it came out clean and both bearing surfaces look mint with no signs of contamination, which gives me hope.

I am cautiously optimistic this is isolated to the pump since the pump exits into the oil filter. I am going to pull a cam bearing cap and see what it looks like and try to contact the shop used by Curt to see if I can pull a rod cap to inspect the crank surface for contamination. To make matters worse the damn Nissan Bond didn't want to play nice so I bend the edge of the pan so likely gonna have to buy a new pan as well. I suspect the acceleration with 535ft-lbs@wheels is starving the pump so I need to address the sump issues to keep oil around the pickup.

 

The pump with the scoring and bearing issues definitely contributed to the problem, but the problem most probably lies into the excessive vacuum also. The pump does exit into the filter but the excess crankcase vacuum fights the pump.How much percentage of the problem lies into either of these causes would have been accurate before adding the relief valve on the can. It will definitely give you an idea when you replace the pump though. Oil pressure might actually be ok with the amount of vacuum you draw and the problem could be solely down to the pump. I was with the impression that your setup was freshly built.







Marios

 

Here is a pic of my setup :

 

Fresh build, but oil pump was transferred from my 2L since it was already modified.

 

That’s a bummer man .

Hopefully the contamination was caught early enough .

The nz racecab is a nice piece if you go that route . Or you could consider the ER oil pump gear and a baffled stock pan.

 

-You should not have done than , no matter the mileage, mine is also modified, front case also.


-Nevertheless, hopefully you will not have any shavings floating or attached, you might as well flush the cooler also.

From the looks of it I do believe you'll be ok.






Marios

 

The pump looked in very good shape so there was no reason not to run it. I suspect the issue is the new setup has 100+ft-lbs@wheels more than the 2L so it is starving the pump during acceleration. It is a known problem, but not something I considered when building the new setup. The oil pressure issue didn't initiate until after at least 10K miles on the new setup so I don't think a new pump would have made a difference, but who knows since it is all speculation. Live and learn!

 

I does not matter if it looks good, it was used with mileage on it, when you do a complete fresh built, you always change oil and water pumps. To me that problem is not known. What kills oil pumps is rpm, not hp/torque, as in cylinder pressures, it is an external reciprocating part. I have modified as in ported both the pump and front case,but not for this reason. The reason was to optimize oil flow further. I have seen setups around the 900-1000hp mark run for years on a completely stock oil pump without issues. My own setup is around that mark as well on 100 oct fuel. I on the other hand believe that the old pump was already worn out, and it could not take any more, wear is not always visible, fatigue on metal parts, so a new pump would have lasted you a lot longer at the least. The issue was ta 10K miles because that's when the oil pump reached a significant malfunction point. The oil issue I do believe that is down to your draw of excessive vacuum also. Anyway, all the best with changing the oil pump, resolving the oil issue, and putting the setup back together, do not forget to decontaminate the engine and flush the oil cooler.








Marios

 

He's referring to torque killing the pump because the car accelerates faster, sloshing oil away from the pick up.

 

-I do know what he meant, hence my comment on excessive vacuum draw, similar effect. The same goes for cornering faster generating more Gs. But in his case it should not be as such as there are higher power setups that do not suffer from gravitational force in regards to oil starvation. So the only cause that remains to wear out/damage a pump is rpm in his case, which it would be possible if he was revving it to 10K but he is not.


-I also suggested to him a few days ago, to put trap doors in the oil pan at the right places, for this exact reason, oil starvation,as a precaution to cornering mostly.






Marios