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Not true.. mivec cars measure inlet cam timing relative to the cam sensor not the position of the cam gear.. You may need to machine the cam gear a bit to get the full cam advance.. but otherwise the inlet cam timing stays the same..
It is true, both cams get retarded if you change the oil pump gear to a larger one. Both cams are measured/calculated by the ecu through the sensors, that does not mean that the camshafts are not retarded. It seems that you also got confused.
Marios
Last edited by Evo8cy; Jul 7, 2020 at 10:29 AM.
Reason: typo/added comment
Ecu measures the cam position with a sensor that is fixed on the head... Cam gear is floating, and relative position of the cam to the gear is determined by the ecu.. it will adjust the oil pressure in the gear to get the inlet cam timing that is set in the table.. It really doesnt matter if you advance or retard the inlet cam MIVEC gear, ecu will compensate.. the only thing you will change is the maximum cam advance/retard, as the cam gear might bottom out on the adjustment range.. The cam advance table in the ecu is real timing relative to the fixed cam sensor.. has noting much to to with position of the cam gear.. BTW, this is exactly how twin mivec evo X compensates for cam chain stretch..
Ecu measures the cam position with a sensor that is fixed on the head... Cam gear is floating, and relative position of the cam to the gear is determined by the ecu.. it will adjust the oil pressure in the gear to get the inlet cam timing that is set in the table.. It really doesnt matter if you advance or retard the inlet cam MIVEC gear, ecu will compensate.. the only thing you will change is the maximum cam advance/retard, as the cam gear might bottom out on the adjustment range.. The cam advance table in the ecu is real timing relative to the fixed cam sensor.. has noting much to to with position of the cam gear.. BTW, this is exactly how twin mivec evo X compensates for cam chain stretch..
I know how things work, but this does not change what I said. Both cams will get retarded, and you will need to correct things, you also need the light gun and an adjustable cam gear for the exhaust camshaft as floating does not apply. Light gun is there to identify and verify things as a safety measure. You will also need to correct mivec. Which is what I posted before. I would most definitely use a light gun.
Marios
Last edited by Evo8cy; Jul 7, 2020 at 10:44 AM.
Reason: typo
I know what it is.. and I know it will change the ex am timing.. I am just saying it will not change the intake cam timing on mivec cars.. It will change the max cam advance though, unless you modify the inside of the cam gear
Yeah, my reference to adjust the mivec table was just to back it off if you have max advance anywhere in the table, that way you don't get a code for the cam not reaching the commanded timing because the gear is maxed out. Should have been more clear on that.
I know what it is.. and I know it will change the ex am timing.. I am just saying it will not change the intake cam timing on mivec cars.. It will change the max cam advance though, unless you modify the inside of the cam gear
Ok now we are getting somewhere, on non mivec cars it will retard both camshafts. On mivec cars, actual timing of the camshaft will not change, if both are mivec none will change, if one is mivec the other will change. The mivec gear/s max advance capabilities will change, and some correction can be done through the ecu on the mivec intake advance max table on an evo 9 for instance, there might also be a need to modify the gear so that it gains back what it had lost.
To be more specific, if I remember correctly on the stock ecu there are 3 tables, mivec intake advance min, mivec intake advance max, and mivec intake advance which is the actual timing table load vs rpm. On the mivec intake advance max table, the "set data" value limit will be reduced.
I called Peterson and the external regulator (# 09-0160) is currently sold out so they suspect it will be 2-3 weeks before additional inventory is available. Going to try and find another similar offering or just going to have to wait.
I purchased a piece of 3/8" aluminum plate to make a jig for the oil pan when I weld it. I also cut open the old pan today and pretty much have it figured out how I am going to mod the new pan. Going with 0.065" steel sheet on the sides and internals and 0.125" steel sheet on the bottom. Baffles around the sump are the flexible rubber ones since they can be serviced, but the one that I will add to the front sump will be a stainless hinge style since it can't be serviced. Should have it mostly finished this week so just need to get the proper welding rod to TIG steel.
Weld that pan in a very, very, very, VERY well-ventilated room. That paint, once it starts burning off, is f**king caustic. Or remove all the paint before hand. It's nasty stuff
Pan is super tricky to tig weld because it is made of two sheets of zinc plated steel and you cant remove the zinc between the sheets.. So it will tend to blow out. However, you can TIG braze it with a propper rod..
Last edited by kikiturbo; Jul 12, 2020 at 11:21 PM.
Pan is super tricky to tig weld because it is made of two sheets of zinc plated steel and you cant remove the zinc between the sheets.. So it will tend to blow out. However, you can TIG braze it with a propper rod..
Thank you for the tip and did you use Silicone Bronze or Aluminum Bronze for the braze filler? If something else can you please list?
