Hey guys well im putting the engine back together this next week. I was wondering what you guys thought what the best oil to use would be on a new engine? Its obviouse that you do not want to use sythetic and that you should use a thicker weight then normal. But what kind would you recommend? This is what i was thinking.

0-300 miles 10w30
300-500 miles 10w30
500-1000 miles 10w30
1000 miles switch to synthetic 5w30

Also just so you guys know we blueprinted and balanced the engine and the stock crank from the factory is actually really well balanced. Mine was 1/4 ounce off and by the time we got done with it we had it down to 1/10 gram off. Even though 1/4 ounce doesnt seem like allot if you are spinning that at 8Krpms it equalls around 100 pounds of mass in that one spot. CRAZY!!!

Chris

 

An imbalance will exert a force proportional to the square of the rpm. In other words, a small imbalance will become a *huge* imbalance with enough engine speed.

I don't buy into not using synthetic from the get go, but it's your call.

Here's an article on engine break-in that you may find interesting:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

just use regular oil for the first 1000 miles and you'll be fine

 

I heard that if you use synthetic oil the rings will not seat right. The sythetic oil is too slippery to make anything seat right. Thats why i was planning on using normal oil but i wasnt sure which kind to get?

I heard Kindel is good? I also heard to use Non detergent oil? I was thinking just getting like something that is normal oil in a 10w30 weight. SHould i get thicker? I took out the balance shafts so my oil pressure is going to be higher then normal already if that makes a difference.

Thank you for the link i will check it out right now.

evo542 what would you suggest as far as name brand? Probably doesnt make much of a difference but i just want to make sure. I really dont want to be pulling the engine apart agian becouse the rings didnt seat right.

Chris

 

I broke my car in hard- ton's of 7K rpm shifting (and this is from virtually mile one, as David tuned the car with the fresh motor). I used AMSOIL 10W-30 Synthetic and changed it after the first 300 miles.

And, a lot of people are going to tell you stories of what they've heard.
Read this:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

Hmmm, I've just conducted some quick research on this subject, and the answer to this question tends to vary depending on who you ask.

It seems that modern exotic sports cars are shipped with synthetic from the start. Porsche dyno tunes each of its engines before installation, and appears to use synthetics exclusively. Many experts tend to agree that modern engines don't require the age-old break in period like the older engines, possibly due to improvements in materials and tolerances. The article in the link I posted above seems to support this.

On the other hand, some persons/companies like Redline advise using conventional initially. My hesitation in using conventional oil in a high hp turbo engine is the oil will be far more susceptible to sheer and thermal breakdown.

However, if you adhere to the article, you would use conventional 10w-40, warm up the engine to operating temp, run it hard for the equivalent of 20 miles, stop and change the oil and filter. You would run conventional for 1000-1500 miles, and change oil/filter again, this time to synthetic and use that from that point onward.

While I can't verify the accuracy of the information presented in the article, it looks very convincing. I might add that in my experience it seems that motorcycles run hard from the beginning always seem to end up being stronger running examples for some odd reason...and perhaps this article finally explains why.

 

Thanks guys for the info. I have noticed allot of contraversy myself. It does make sense to me though that synthetic would be too slippery basically to seat the rings properly. I also have heard that if you run it hard it will end up making more power. So what do you guys think about this then?

Normal 10w30 for 20miles making a couple hard pulls. Change the oil with 10w30 agian drive conservitavly but yet getting a couple more hard pulls to 500 miles. Change with normal 10w30 and drive normally until 1000miles. Change everything to synthetic and continue driving normally. Of course im think after about 100 miles maybe of country driving i will do a copression test and see how things look. If everything is good maybe i will switch to sythetic sooner. All i want to see is the compression where it should be and then i would feel comfortable changing to sythetic. Does this sound ok??

BTW when i say normal driving i happen to have a led foot. I guess it was the years of 1/4 midget racing that kind of carried over

Chris

 

I have to agree with TedB on this one. I have had synthetic in the car from day one and broke it in hard. I didn't break the clutch or drivetrain in hard, but I did use the motor pretty hard.

Now, I am running with or outrunning guys with cam, intercooler, XEDE, turboback, etc. cars when I only have an intake, turboback and a TurboTrix flash at 20 psi.

Either TurboTrix is that good, or hard motor break in is that important. I think it's a little of both.

Also, in support of synthetic, our race motors are built and filled with synthetic. They are broken in on it for about 30 minutes. Then we change to new synthetic and go racing.

 

So i wont have problems with the rings seating then if i use synthetic. I always thought when we receive the engine and have 0 miles on them actually they have been broken in from the factory and then installed into the car which has 0 miles. Anyway what im hearing is throw sythetic in it and run the crap out of it huh?

Chris

 

Right but be smart about it. Don't do anything sudden or hard. Just progressively increase your RPMs as you get more miles. Remember, there are other parts on your car besides the motor that do need to wear in more slowly like clutch and brakes. Just don't baby it for 500 miles. I babies mine for about 75 miles and started to drive with a bit more throttle. By 250 miles I already had aftermarket exhaust. By 450 miles I already had it to 155. Changed the oil at 500 miles. Been driving "enthusiastically" ever since.

 

Well basically i just fully rebuilt the engine. Crank, Pistons, Rods, Valvesprings, Retainers, All gaskets, Seals, Block is New bored .20 over, Blueprinted and Balanced, the GT 35/40R has about 300 miles on it, Rebuilt Tranny and Transfer Case, New Valves, Cams. The rest of the car has 9K miles on it. I just want to make sure that the rings will seat ok. Thats my main worry.

So Mobile 1 10w30 or 5w30 do you guys suggest? Thanx for your help!!

Chris

 

10w30.