View Poll Results: Do the gears grind in your Evo?
Evo doesn't grind



225
27.54%
Grinds - 1st to 2nd



253
30.97%
Grinds - 2nd to 3rd



189
23.13%
Grinds - 3rd to 4th



110
13.46%
Grinds - 4th to 5th



214
26.19%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 817. You may not vote on this poll
Mitsubishi, synchros and us
I had to have my 5th gear hub/sychro replaced due to grinding. Anything over 60mph and a shift to 5th would result in a grind.
Once the updated parts were installed, I havent had a problem since.
Once the updated parts were installed, I havent had a problem since.
Try adjusting your clutch, I know that this sounds stupid and simple, but try it. Get on your hands and knee's and start to depress the clutch pedal. It will be somewhat stiff, but that is the return spring, once it starts to actually compress the slave cylinder, you will feel the added resitance. On my car I had about .80 to 1.00" in slak before it started to exert a push on the slave cylinder. Look where the master cylinder screws into the clutch pedal and you will see a 12mm lock nut. It is kind of hard to get to, but loosen the lock nut and if you gently push on the clutch pedal you can unscrew the clutch rod by hand until there is only .20 to .25 of play until the master cylinder starts to engage the slave cylinder, you will feel the pressure increase. What this does is to increase the length of the stroke so that it fully releases the pressure plate so that the syncronisers can match speeds allowing the dog gears to engage without grinding. I could hardly get my ACT clutch to shift above 6000 rpm's, I mean it would NOT shift until the engine RPM can down to meet the input shaft speed. It turns out my pressure plate was not letting the clutch completely disengage and it was dragging thuse not letting the syncros do their thing. Also I somehow recieved the wrong clutch from RRE, it was a clutch for a Mazda that was a bit too thick, but that is another matter. One way or another after I adjusted the clutch I was able to shift as quickly as I wanted to at whatever RPM I so chose, with absolutely NO grinding. Try it.
Last edited by USP45; Sep 17, 2004 at 09:33 PM.
Originally Posted by joeycoates
Try adjusting your clutch, I know that this sounds stupid and simple, but try it. Get on your hands and knee's and start to depress the clutch pedal. It will be somewhat stiff, but that is the return spring, once it starts to actually compress the slave cylinder, you will feel the added resitance. On my car I had about .80 to 1.00" in slak before it started to exert a push on the slave cylinder. Look where the master cylinder screws into the clutch pedal and you will see a 12mm lock nut. It is kind of hard to get to, but loosen the lock nut and if you gently push on the clutch pedal you can unscrew the clutch rod by hand until there is only .20 to .25 of play until the master cylinder starts to engage the slave cylinder, you will feel the pressure increase. What this does is to increase the length of the stroke so that it fully releases the pressure plate so that the syncronisers can match speeds allowing the dog gears to engage without grinding. I could hardly get my ACT clutch to shift above 6000 rpm's, I mean it would NOT shift until the engine RPM can down to meet the input shaft speed. It turns out my pressure plate was not letting the clutch completely disengage and it was dragging thuse not letting the syncros do their thing. Also I somehow recieved the wrong clutch from RRE, it was a clutch for a Mazda that was a bit too thick, but that is another matter. One way or another after I adjusted the clutch I was able to shift as quickly as I wanted to at whatever RPM I so chose, with absolutely NO grinding. Try it.
I don’t know?? maybe 7~8k evos were sold so far. I would say at least 2K have grind. We are getting hosed here. I am not wiling to spend $3K on rebuilding my tranny when I have NOT raced or draged the car. so far a Camry can shift faster
guys please vote and post your opinions.. lets try to make this thread as big as possible so Mitsu can see it. in fact I will be wiling to spend 3K in a courtroom fighting Mitsu instead of rebuilding my tranny.
I definately agree with you here. I think there are issues, and there have been MANY with the DSM's. I was not a happy camper when I found my 5th gear shot at 5K miles either. It's holding up fine since the 'rebuild'. Knock on wood
Az3ar,
Try duplicating your problem when the trans fluid is still cold ( meaning, have the engine idle up to normal operating temp. then try shifting at xxxxrpm that usually grinds. )
I'm just assuming that the trans fluid breaks down and loses it's thermal viscosity when it gets really hot in there . Remember, as you depress the clutch, you are dis-engaging the syncros as well and the viscosity of the fluid in the trans help slow in down your syncros. If the syncros are still spinning then you'll get that grind.
I might be wrong on this but it's just an assumption.
Try duplicating your problem when the trans fluid is still cold ( meaning, have the engine idle up to normal operating temp. then try shifting at xxxxrpm that usually grinds. )
I'm just assuming that the trans fluid breaks down and loses it's thermal viscosity when it gets really hot in there . Remember, as you depress the clutch, you are dis-engaging the syncros as well and the viscosity of the fluid in the trans help slow in down your syncros. If the syncros are still spinning then you'll get that grind.
I might be wrong on this but it's just an assumption.
Originally Posted by Nad1370
Az3ar,
Try duplicating your problem when the trans fluid is still cold ( meaning, have the engine idle up to normal operating temp. then try shifting at xxxxrpm that usually grinds. )
I'm just assuming that the trans fluid breaks down and loses it's thermal viscosity when it gets really hot in there . Remember, as you depress the clutch, you are dis-engaging the syncros as well and the viscosity of the fluid in the trans help slow in down your syncros. If the syncros are still spinning then you'll get that grind.
I might be wrong on this but it's just an assumption.
Try duplicating your problem when the trans fluid is still cold ( meaning, have the engine idle up to normal operating temp. then try shifting at xxxxrpm that usually grinds. )
I'm just assuming that the trans fluid breaks down and loses it's thermal viscosity when it gets really hot in there . Remember, as you depress the clutch, you are dis-engaging the syncros as well and the viscosity of the fluid in the trans help slow in down your syncros. If the syncros are still spinning then you'll get that grind.
I might be wrong on this but it's just an assumption.
I have replaced my fluids with neo 75W90 HD which the shop told me its way and byond (other fluids) What do you guys think? by the way the neo fluid is fully syntec
Pennzoil Synchromesh is approximately SAE 80W according to pennzoil's website.
Az3ar, do you have your clutch restrictor removed? The thing I've noticed about my shifting is that it's only notchy when I try to shift fast. If I hold the clutch pedal down for a second and then put it into gear, it's always smooth. The restrictor limits the speed of clutch engagement and disengagement. I need to get off my lazy a$$ and yank that thing out.
Az3ar, do you have your clutch restrictor removed? The thing I've noticed about my shifting is that it's only notchy when I try to shift fast. If I hold the clutch pedal down for a second and then put it into gear, it's always smooth. The restrictor limits the speed of clutch engagement and disengagement. I need to get off my lazy a$$ and yank that thing out.
Originally Posted by marksae
Pennzoil Synchromesh is approximately SAE 80W according to pennzoil's website.
Az3ar, do you have your clutch restrictor removed? The thing I've noticed about my shifting is that it's only notchy when I try to shift fast. If I hold the clutch pedal down for a second and then put it into gear, it's always smooth. The restrictor limits the speed of clutch engagement and disengagement. I need to get off my lazy a$$ and yank that thing out.
Az3ar, do you have your clutch restrictor removed? The thing I've noticed about my shifting is that it's only notchy when I try to shift fast. If I hold the clutch pedal down for a second and then put it into gear, it's always smooth. The restrictor limits the speed of clutch engagement and disengagement. I need to get off my lazy a$$ and yank that thing out.
Yes I have it removed
.. Exactly like you said hold the clutch down for a sec and switch to 4th slowly will go in like butter.. However, thats not how it should work. I have not seen a car where you have to push the clutch for 1 sec then put into gear. This is wrong, something is not designd right.

