Engine Blown Mitsu will not cover repairs HELP.
Evolving Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 434
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From: Bayarea, CA
Originally Posted by PurgeIt
Hahah... Here's what I wrote:
"I smell bull****. So you left in a non-Honda ECU and they were totally cool with it eh? And you used a N/A ECU with a turbo? interesting..."
Honda does not = Mugen. Mugen is NOT Honda. Is that hard to comprehend? If a Honda dealer checked out your car as you claim, they would have immediately noticed that the propoer ECU is NOT in the car. Ding... no dealer in their right mind would warranty a blown motor especially when the telltale signs are there that you messed with it.
Number two... Mugen DOES NOT make ECUs for turbo applications, ONLY for N/A. So how did you run a N/A ECU on a turbo motor, specially when so many parameters are completely different for a turbo set up?
With a V/S-AFC? As I said... any moron who does even a little bit of research on HOW the APEXi units work knows that it's completely ineffective and uselss on speed density / MAP cars.
So tell me... how do you tailor a non-programmable ROM-based N/A ECU to work with a turbo application?
"I smell bull****. So you left in a non-Honda ECU and they were totally cool with it eh? And you used a N/A ECU with a turbo? interesting..."
Honda does not = Mugen. Mugen is NOT Honda. Is that hard to comprehend? If a Honda dealer checked out your car as you claim, they would have immediately noticed that the propoer ECU is NOT in the car. Ding... no dealer in their right mind would warranty a blown motor especially when the telltale signs are there that you messed with it.
Number two... Mugen DOES NOT make ECUs for turbo applications, ONLY for N/A. So how did you run a N/A ECU on a turbo motor, specially when so many parameters are completely different for a turbo set up?
With a V/S-AFC? As I said... any moron who does even a little bit of research on HOW the APEXi units work knows that it's completely ineffective and uselss on speed density / MAP cars.
So tell me... how do you tailor a non-programmable ROM-based N/A ECU to work with a turbo application?
+1
you know how mitsu is, they treat you like a king at first until you need that cel light to go off then they act like they don't even know you. good luck, but with the mods i dont think luck has anything to do with it. sorry man
you know how mitsu is, they treat you like a king at first until you need that cel light to go off then they act like they don't even know you. good luck, but with the mods i dont think luck has anything to do with it. sorry man 
Originally Posted by Karma'sEvo
WHAT ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT HE HAS ALMOST NO MODS.. LEARN HOW TO READ
Boost controller and a SAFCII...no mods...learn what those parts can do on their own or in conjunction with each other before you make a dumb*** statement like that again! And remove the ALL CAPS typing...
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: GA
Originally Posted by TTP Engineering
I am dizzy... 
That is all I can literally add.
That is all I can literally add.
what I was trying to say was that you can't overboost on the stock ecu.
but usually if the piston isn't cracked - detonation, and is melted, then it's usually it's drivers fault for abusing the hell out of it.
but I'm sure someone will argue this point and I would really like to hear about how this could exactly happen.
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 459
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From: GA
on the mugen part, actually it's interesting because Mugen could very much be Honda or they could get whatever they want from Honda.
Hirotoshi Honda, who owns Mugen is the son of the late Soichiro Honda, the founder of Honda automotive group in Japan.
Mugen does basically all the aftermarket research for Honda. Like your average wings and what not.
Hirotoshi Honda, who owns Mugen is the son of the late Soichiro Honda, the founder of Honda automotive group in Japan.
Mugen does basically all the aftermarket research for Honda. Like your average wings and what not.
Originally Posted by TTP Engineering
I don't know why you would think you have a case. This is all you. Sorry.
I am saying he put the two most "likely to blow up your engine" parts on his car and because of that he needs to get out his checkbook to pay for a new motor. I personally think he should pay for it.
Last edited by 4ringturncoat; Feb 10, 2006 at 06:25 AM.
just so you guys know.... the profec has a real time boost display and peak last boost(stored)...maybe you should check your max boost....but if your wastegate was cut(or torn) then he wasn't using a profec....so to speak. I use my profec b as my boost gauge....very accurate.
we all pretty much know what happened to his car...lets just hope he learns and moves forward. Lets not beat on this dead horse...i want to hear some positive feedback of "i got my car back together and i'm gonna keep her" ...you getting rid of an evo is like being rich, divorced and not having a prenup lol
we all pretty much know what happened to his car...lets just hope he learns and moves forward. Lets not beat on this dead horse...i want to hear some positive feedback of "i got my car back together and i'm gonna keep her" ...you getting rid of an evo is like being rich, divorced and not having a prenup lol
Originally Posted by forbidden color
lol i actually just read that too. I think i was really tired last night.
what I was trying to say was that you can't overboost on the stock ecu.
but usually if the piston isn't cracked - detonation, and is melted, then it's usually it's drivers fault for abusing the hell out of it.
but I'm sure someone will argue this point and I would really like to hear about how this could exactly happen.
what I was trying to say was that you can't overboost on the stock ecu.
but usually if the piston isn't cracked - detonation, and is melted, then it's usually it's drivers fault for abusing the hell out of it.
but I'm sure someone will argue this point and I would really like to hear about how this could exactly happen.
I have been able to acheive 28 psi on a factory evo before, but granted I had to physically disconnect the wastegate and keep it closed. (which I don't recommend doing) and that was only done twice.
rudebwoyt, if you have to purchase a new engine, let me know what you want for your block. I am looking for one to do a strocker. Also, which dealer do you have your car at? I know the guys at Dayton Mitsu work on Evo's alot and maybe able to help you out some way.
SKILMATIC,
Please stop posting incorrect information in this forum. In all likelihood, you will have to pay for a new clutch every 10,000 miles, a new engine at least once, and probably a new transfer case. This has nothing to do with the quality of the Evo, but that you appear to have very little understanding of how a car works. Your posts have not benefited this thread in any way.
To the creator of this thread,
Unfortunately your engine problem was likely caused by your tuning of the SAFC. The only other likely possibilities based on the information you provided is a fuel pump or injector failure. It is an unfortunate situation, but when you begin modifying boost pressure and A/F ratios it is difficult for a manufacturer to accept responsibility for an engine failure. Your best bet at this point would be to try to source a used motor from someone, as that is the cheapest option. Buying a new motor from Mitsu is probably the most expensive option, and getting a built motor from one of the shops on this forum would fall somewhere between the two.
-Paul
Please stop posting incorrect information in this forum. In all likelihood, you will have to pay for a new clutch every 10,000 miles, a new engine at least once, and probably a new transfer case. This has nothing to do with the quality of the Evo, but that you appear to have very little understanding of how a car works. Your posts have not benefited this thread in any way.
To the creator of this thread,
Unfortunately your engine problem was likely caused by your tuning of the SAFC. The only other likely possibilities based on the information you provided is a fuel pump or injector failure. It is an unfortunate situation, but when you begin modifying boost pressure and A/F ratios it is difficult for a manufacturer to accept responsibility for an engine failure. Your best bet at this point would be to try to source a used motor from someone, as that is the cheapest option. Buying a new motor from Mitsu is probably the most expensive option, and getting a built motor from one of the shops on this forum would fall somewhere between the two.
-Paul
