How much did you pay to save weight?
Sorry if I am repeating what some people said but I skipped 4-5 pages above:
Yes, the rotational mass is very important as well as unsprung weight, but also you want the front-back weight ratio to be somewhere inbetween 50/50 and 40/60 (probably impossible on EVO unless you relocate the engine), as low as possible, and as inside as possible. Thats probably why it is more difficult/expensive to reduce weight on wheels, tires, suspension, brakes (rotational mass) roof and windows (top), hood, trunk, doors (outer), and anything in engine bay (front).
Some serious items that will really reduce your cars weight:
- Any form of stripping to bare bones while retaining essentials (including wire shortening and removing useless wires)
- Dry carbon, magnesium and titanium parts on panels and chassis
- CF or magnesium wheels (track only or they wont last long), also Buddy Club P1 QF wheels are lighter than CE28N while still being forged aluminum, CE28N is probably better quality though.
- Lightweight brake on all 4 wheels (would probably stop a bit better and fade less than gigantic 14" fancy brand cross drilled and slotted ones, unless you step up even more and get ceramic ones)
- Don't bother with 20lbs batteries, get 6lbs one from Braille, its more than enough on a car without radios.
Yes, the rotational mass is very important as well as unsprung weight, but also you want the front-back weight ratio to be somewhere inbetween 50/50 and 40/60 (probably impossible on EVO unless you relocate the engine), as low as possible, and as inside as possible. Thats probably why it is more difficult/expensive to reduce weight on wheels, tires, suspension, brakes (rotational mass) roof and windows (top), hood, trunk, doors (outer), and anything in engine bay (front).
Some serious items that will really reduce your cars weight:
- Any form of stripping to bare bones while retaining essentials (including wire shortening and removing useless wires)
- Dry carbon, magnesium and titanium parts on panels and chassis
- CF or magnesium wheels (track only or they wont last long), also Buddy Club P1 QF wheels are lighter than CE28N while still being forged aluminum, CE28N is probably better quality though.
- Lightweight brake on all 4 wheels (would probably stop a bit better and fade less than gigantic 14" fancy brand cross drilled and slotted ones, unless you step up even more and get ceramic ones)
- Don't bother with 20lbs batteries, get 6lbs one from Braille, its more than enough on a car without radios.
Wow, I didn't realize this thread was still going. As far as total weight saved on one car, my IX currently weighs less than 2700, but at great expense due to carbon/fiber, etc. Not all of the ideas that are currently available, have been added to my car. Such as newly released Buschur lightweight parts, etc. But, that gives you an idea of how easy it is to drop the weight of the Evo. Less weight, means less horsepower required to reach desired et/mph targets. Or, as David Buschur said, LESS BREAKAGE DUE LESS MASS BEING MOVED/LESS DRIVELINE SHOCK, etc.
Wow, I didn't realize this thread was still going. As far as total weight saved on one car, my IX currently weighs less than 2700, but at great expense due to carbon/fiber, etc. Not all of the ideas that are currently available, have been added to my car. Such as newly released Buschur lightweight parts, etc. But, that gives you an idea of how easy it is to drop the weight of the Evo. Less weight, means less horsepower required to reach desired et/mph targets. Or, as David Buschur said, LESS BREAKAGE DUE LESS MASS BEING MOVED/LESS DRIVELINE SHOCK, etc.
Glad to see you back on the boards Tom. Hope all is well.
Have any more pics or vids of your car? The build up on it was sick... that kind of power on the BR dyno is sweet.
For the thread.. Im thinking about getting some Gyro's or something, but it looks like theyre in the process of moving. I dont think I can get Baer fronts anymore...
For the thread.. Im thinking about getting some Gyro's or something, but it looks like theyre in the process of moving. I dont think I can get Baer fronts anymore...
The only thing I did to save weight was gut the trunk
Spare tire and the accessories that come with the spare, and the trunk lining thing
Best of all, it was FREE
I'm not willing to sacrifice some creature comforts such as power windows/locks and AC just to gain a couple tenths of a second in the quarter mile
Besides, I spend more time DD than I do at the track, so it wouldn't make sense for me
Spare tire and the accessories that come with the spare, and the trunk lining thing
Best of all, it was FREE
I'm not willing to sacrifice some creature comforts such as power windows/locks and AC just to gain a couple tenths of a second in the quarter mile
Besides, I spend more time DD than I do at the track, so it wouldn't make sense for me
I recently received my CE28N 15x7 wheels from Japan. Ordered them Jan 4,2007. After 7 months of waiting, they've been paired with a set of 15 x 9.5 Hoosier LW Quick Time Pro's. TOTAL WEIGHT per wheel and tire is 29.8 lbs with wheel weights, metal stems and air. These saved about 14 lbs (56 total) over stock, per corner in rotating mass. Total cost per pound saved was $47/lb.
Have any more pics or vids of your car? The build up on it was sick... that kind of power on the BR dyno is sweet.
For the thread.. Im thinking about getting some Gyro's or something, but it looks like theyre in the process of moving. I dont think I can get Baer fronts anymore...
For the thread.. Im thinking about getting some Gyro's or something, but it looks like theyre in the process of moving. I dont think I can get Baer fronts anymore...
I love this thread and wanted to bring it back once more for anyone who missed it. If anyone doubts the value of dropping weight, compare a 2700 pound Evo to a 3200 pound loaded SSL Evo. 500 pounds. All you have to do to gauge that kind of performance difference is drive your current car all out, then get 3 170 pound friends to pile in and go all out again. The acceleration, braking and handling difference between the 2 would be overwhelmingly obvious to even the most novice of drivers.
I love this thread and wanted to bring it back once more for anyone who missed it. If anyone doubts the value of dropping weight, compare a 2700 pound Evo to a 3200 pound loaded SSL Evo. 500 pounds. All you have to do to gauge that kind of performance difference is drive your current car all out, then get 3 170 pound friends to pile in and go all out again. The acceleration, braking and handling difference between the 2 would be overwhelmingly obvious to even the most novice of drivers.
Once you lighten up your car a lot, and if you are perceptive, you can easily feel the difference of driving the car alone and with a passenger. I hate weight, lol
I see several mentions of getting an aluminum MR roof for $499. Can someone let me know where these deals can be found? My local dealership wants $800+
I've currently got a convertible evo, so I need to order a new roof in the next couple of weeks. I'd go with the carbon AMS roof but rally rules dictate that the roof must be metal...hmmm would CF with a layer of aluminum foil on the inside count?
Any help appreciated!!
Dave
I've currently got a convertible evo, so I need to order a new roof in the next couple of weeks. I'd go with the carbon AMS roof but rally rules dictate that the roof must be metal...hmmm would CF with a layer of aluminum foil on the inside count?
Any help appreciated!!
Dave






