Works brain dyno with a/f coming soon
So AL, you have already dyno'd works brain flash, but I have yet to see a/f readings or boost curves? What's the deal? the horespower numbers you posted don't mean ****, unless you show the whole curve. As usual your posts are not helpful, only there to get attention.
Originally posted by BLKEVO8
I got the the Works flash I had a bushur 3" turbo back at first with grounding kit, monster flat panel, and I put down a best 270hp at the wheel with 94 octane on an early June mid 60's 80% humidity. Ideal for a max power situation on a Mustang all wheel drive dyno. I sold off the Buschur and went with a different set up not that different still a turbo back nothing else changed. I went back to the dyno for Microsoft X-Box it was a free run. I came in exactly the same 270hp at the wheels I was pretty bummed but the tech told me the following. Before there was a dip in the power curve that was gone smooth all the way to redline. There is a higher rev limit which he never took advantage of and finally it was 98 degrees that day and like 30% humidity. Now the facts are the following low humidity will screw your A/F ratios period also that high heat will kill HP like nothing else so he was still surprised to see the car come in at those numbers so I am going to wait till things cool down again and go in to dyno at about the same conditions as my first run.
I got the the Works flash I had a bushur 3" turbo back at first with grounding kit, monster flat panel, and I put down a best 270hp at the wheel with 94 octane on an early June mid 60's 80% humidity. Ideal for a max power situation on a Mustang all wheel drive dyno. I sold off the Buschur and went with a different set up not that different still a turbo back nothing else changed. I went back to the dyno for Microsoft X-Box it was a free run. I came in exactly the same 270hp at the wheels I was pretty bummed but the tech told me the following. Before there was a dip in the power curve that was gone smooth all the way to redline. There is a higher rev limit which he never took advantage of and finally it was 98 degrees that day and like 30% humidity. Now the facts are the following low humidity will screw your A/F ratios period also that high heat will kill HP like nothing else so he was still surprised to see the car come in at those numbers so I am going to wait till things cool down again and go in to dyno at about the same conditions as my first run.
Bottom line is that unlike gunfights, the first shot is not the most important one. If you want to know what you really have available when driving on the street, first pull numbers are not a good indicator. After a number of successive pulls you will get to numbers that you can consistently repeat. These are the ones that really count.
A return to Altered on the 26th of May after Vishnu Stage Zero + (XEDE w/93 map, Vishnu 3" catback, DP and hi-flo cat) produced consistent runs in the 272 HP range. Final map selected after over 20 pulls produced 272.0 HP and 264.4 TQ, and offered the smoothest curve. Absolutely no knock activity was discernable when monitoring with electronic sensor and headphone equipment even after 20 pulls. AFR averages 11.6:1 @ 4200 RPM dropping to near 11.2 at redline.
(These numbers were acheived on stock boost map prior to release of newly developed boost mapping feature of the XEDE)
Unfortunately the atmospheric differences between the baseline on the 19th and the modified runs on the 26th were significantly different and therefore not very useful in quantifying exact gains when compared to stock. The 19th was a perfect low humidity, clear sky moderate temperature day. The 26th was hot, humid, and rainy. First pull with the stock ECU and 3' turbo back exhaust on the 26th produced same 240HP as the bone stock run of a week earlier.
I intend to go back when atmospherics are similar to the 19th and do another pull to see how significant a player the heat and humidity really are.
Last edited by jfh; Aug 8, 2003 at 04:48 PM.
Originally posted by mayhem
Can't really tell what you're getting at in the post, but it sounds like the guy just bought an SAFC then put it on the dyno to tune, which is exactly what you're supposed to do. But with or without the SAFC, the idea Works put into the A/F maps was to be SAFE. If it's a little fat in the mid section then it's safe. But that's just my opinion.
Can't really tell what you're getting at in the post, but it sounds like the guy just bought an SAFC then put it on the dyno to tune, which is exactly what you're supposed to do. But with or without the SAFC, the idea Works put into the A/F maps was to be SAFE. If it's a little fat in the mid section then it's safe. But that's just my opinion.
If you are going to have to go back to the dyno because you are not satisfied with the reflash, just install something designed to provide access to more mapping paramenters in the first place e.g. UniChip, Xede, Mototronic, etc.
Installing a stand alone SAFC after a reflash is like putting ketchup on a bad cut of beef to make the poor flavor more tollerable..
Evolved Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 908
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From: Sarasota
Originally posted by jfh
Reflashed ECU should not require installation of SAFC or return trips to the dyno for additional tuning, That's the main reason people want a reflash in the first place, ...plug-n-play solution that optimizes performance.
If you are going to have to go back to the dyno because you are not satisfied with the reflash, just install something designed to provide access to more mapping paramenters in the first place e.g. UniChip, Xede, Mototronic, etc.
Installing a stand alone SAFC after a reflash is like putting ketchup on a bad cut of beef to make the poor flavor more tollerable..
Reflashed ECU should not require installation of SAFC or return trips to the dyno for additional tuning, That's the main reason people want a reflash in the first place, ...plug-n-play solution that optimizes performance.
If you are going to have to go back to the dyno because you are not satisfied with the reflash, just install something designed to provide access to more mapping paramenters in the first place e.g. UniChip, Xede, Mototronic, etc.
Installing a stand alone SAFC after a reflash is like putting ketchup on a bad cut of beef to make the poor flavor more tollerable..
Soon (hopefully MUCH sooner than later) the latter chips u mentioned, as well as Ecutech will have custom maps avail for the evo so that we can reflash our ECU on the dyno to our likings ... until then, we wil probably continue to see some wierd things out there ...
As for me ... I'll run an S-AFC and EVC V until I have the ability to make a custom map for my specific vehicle ... not down with mail order generic stuff .... but I respect those who are. Since I've seen a 20 whp varience from stock evo to stock evo, it makes me wonder how much stock ECU settings differ from stock car to stock car as well
... more reason to demand a custom tune. 
Last edited by evo1; Aug 9, 2003 at 01:31 PM.
Originally posted by jfh
Reflashed ECU should not require installation of SAFC or return trips to the dyno for additional tuning, That's the main reason people want a reflash in the first place, ...plug-n-play solution that optimizes performance.
If you are going to have to go back to the dyno because you are not satisfied with the reflash, just install something designed to provide access to more mapping paramenters in the first place e.g. UniChip, Xede, Mototronic, etc.
Installing a stand alone SAFC after a reflash is like putting ketchup on a bad cut of beef to make the poor flavor more tollerable..
Reflashed ECU should not require installation of SAFC or return trips to the dyno for additional tuning, That's the main reason people want a reflash in the first place, ...plug-n-play solution that optimizes performance.
If you are going to have to go back to the dyno because you are not satisfied with the reflash, just install something designed to provide access to more mapping paramenters in the first place e.g. UniChip, Xede, Mototronic, etc.
Installing a stand alone SAFC after a reflash is like putting ketchup on a bad cut of beef to make the poor flavor more tollerable..
Ok first of.. its been a long long day... DC Traffic sucks bad.
I dont see how anyone would want to drive an evo in the DC/Metro Area. This car is not designed to be driven that slowly.. (end of rant)
Ok now what everyone here has been waiting for...
First let me say.. I edited the dyno with Photoshop to conceal real names and to add the mods of each car. Plus Weather for the time was added.
My car (stock) runs really rich. No wonder I have exhaust dust all over my car a few minutes after I wash it.. LOL
I dont see how anyone would want to drive an evo in the DC/Metro Area. This car is not designed to be driven that slowly.. (end of rant)
Ok now what everyone here has been waiting for...
First let me say.. I edited the dyno with Photoshop to conceal real names and to add the mods of each car. Plus Weather for the time was added.
My car (stock) runs really rich. No wonder I have exhaust dust all over my car a few minutes after I wash it.. LOL
SOrry guys I dont understand what the graph means.
Can someone tell me in words what that graph look like ?
Does this graph say WORKS FLASH is SAFE RELIABLE AND DEFINTALY worth all its money ? ?
Can someone tell me in words what that graph look like ?
Does this graph say WORKS FLASH is SAFE RELIABLE AND DEFINTALY worth all its money ? ?