Loud Popping/Shimmy While Turning ONLY!
Loud Popping/Shimmy While Turning ONLY!
Well I went to the track and this happened. I thought it was the passenger side CV AXLE it was snapped in two replaced it, still popped, removed the driver said SNAPPED replaced it! So I snapped both front cv axles replaced them and now it still does it. Im thinking possible t-case or front diff or maybe sypder gears?
What happens is any time I turn the wheel and go forward in gear the whole car makes a huge popping noise and feels like its binding up on its self. Then the car kind of shimmys and the wheel kind of gets tugged from my hands. Any ideas/tips on what I should look for. Im going to drain the front diff tommorow and see what I get!
What happens is any time I turn the wheel and go forward in gear the whole car makes a huge popping noise and feels like its binding up on its self. Then the car kind of shimmys and the wheel kind of gets tugged from my hands. Any ideas/tips on what I should look for. Im going to drain the front diff tommorow and see what I get!
I had to remove the tie rod, and bottom shock bolts to get the CV's out we looked at the lower ball joints, and tie rods on both sides they looked fine. We also did full sweeps and I drove it on the lift nothing in the rack appears to be binding, no leaks etc. Unless I overlooked something I dont believe anything in the suspension is binding. It happens if I try to get into it in gear as well it like can't handle the power and will kind of feel like it skips then catches its self.
I say spyder gears because I know in trucks this is what happens when you shatter them, I am just going to drain out the front diff and see whats in there and how the fluid looks, then I suppose go from there.
Any one got any other ideas?
I say spyder gears because I know in trucks this is what happens when you shatter them, I am just going to drain out the front diff and see whats in there and how the fluid looks, then I suppose go from there.
Any one got any other ideas?
Last edited by XxApollynxX; Oct 15, 2010 at 08:43 AM.
I had to remove the tie rod, and bottom shock bolts to get the CV's out we looked at the lower ball joints, and tie rods on both sides they looked fine. We also did full sweeps and I drove it on the lift nothing in the rack appears to be binding, no leaks etc. Unless I overlooked something I dont believe anything in the suspension is binding. It happens if I try to get into it in gear as well it like can't handle the power and will kind of feel like it skips then catches its self.
I say spyder gears because I know in trucks this is what happens when you shatter them, I am just going to drain out the front diff and see whats in there and how the fluid looks, then I suppose go from there.
Any one got any other ideas?
I say spyder gears because I know in trucks this is what happens when you shatter them, I am just going to drain out the front diff and see whats in there and how the fluid looks, then I suppose go from there.
Any one got any other ideas?
I would agree with draining the front diff. and see what comes out, if anything. Its acting like trucks do when they have 4x4 ingaged and you have the wheel cranked. And even if that happens to not be the peoblem, you still get to replace the fluid... and thats never really a bad thing in my mind.
Snapped in two?
Seriously, if you actually snapped your CV joint/axle in two I would prepare for the worst. Drain the tranny and tc and hope that you don't find any metal pieces.
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I already know the axles are bad, both of them where broken completely in I have to 2 seperate pieces of CV AXLES, those are now BRAND NEW, everything suspension wise checks out, no tire rod slop, no ball join clunk etc. I inspected everything while up on the lift. When I get the time next looks like ill be draining the t-case and the trans to see what I get out of it.
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