Should it click while still plugged in to the car and off the throttle body? Mine is only vibrating in my hand for a second then doing nothing. Also I can't see any movement in it. I tested it with a multimeter and it was within spec. My car wants to stall every now and then and the headlights almost stall it when they are kicked on. I'm thinking it is an iac issue but I don't want to spend 300$ on a guess. No boost leak, has deleted egr, and runs great just idles rough. I posted up a few weeks ago as I have ruled out a lot of things and I think this may be it? Anyone sell them used?

 

Amazon u can find them for $190 or ebay you can find them for like $45 or so.


http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?Part%...p3286.c0.m1583

 

Btw check this also
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ge-my-isc.html

 

Try taking off your neg battery terminal. Let it sit for 10 mins then see if it resets..

 

ive had it off many many times trying to reset it with no luck. I think she is down just simply because idl what else it could possibly be. rear 02 sensor wire is cut but it shows no cel and im pretty sure it is deleted in the tune anyways. But i would love to swap someone else on there to check but i don't know any one who has an evo or lives close lol so im kinda stuck with buying one hoping it cures the issue.

Ive heard you can clean them? I would just assume buy a new one but good lord 300$ really hurts the pocketbook lol. I just know it wants to stall when you kick on accessories and it used to lope with the ac off and now it doesn't but i need to fix it regardless thank you guys for the links at least those routes are 100$ cheaper!!!

 

Mine went bad at only 55k miles. Replaced it and no more idle problems.

 

sounds to me that the iac is bad... its not bumping up the idle when a/c is on.. where does it idle at cold start??

 

if the car has set enough it cold start idles around 15-1700 then when it hits warm temp it idles at about 900 or so. Even when it is at 900 it sort of burps and carries on some and doesn't lope like it used to.

Then if you kick on the ac or the headlights or something it will dip to 600 or so maybe 500 then maybe stall and if not it will pick itself up. I know it idle related because the cars pulls amazing. No issues no cel, deleted the egr, and tested alternator/charging system, and no boost leak so i think this is the culprit. It read 30.5 ohms electrically but that doesn't mean it is mechanically sound. Hopefully i can pick up a used one and be done with it.

 

I have the same issue... My voltage read fine. I bought a used one installed no change. So I would probably just buy new. I also messed with the position of my MAF and that changed my idle.

 

ive had my maf off time and time again with no luck i may just bite the bullet and buy a new one im not sure.

 

do it buy it from amazon i just bought a used one i hope is good if not i'll buy a new one my self

 

any updates? i have an 03 evo that has been giving me a fight! i replaced the TB shaft seals, bypassed the TB coolant lines, replaced the BISS screw and o-ring, i also changes the gasket for the cam angle sensor and installed an OEM IX BOV. the car fought me for soem time and i was able to adjust the idle and it seemed to work fine until i took it for a ride. after about 5 minutes i came to a stop and it wanted top die on me. i had to keep giving it gas.

not sure if i have a bad IAC or MAF. how can i check? i was told that by disconnecting the IAC the car should shoot up to ~2300rpm and it does not.

i would like to narrow it down before i buy an IAC.