Nice right up! I don't want to jack your thread, but here is some advice for the above forthcoming instalation of yours.... go get some good high quality hose clamps! It totally blew my mind when I called up Buschur Racing to say my upper IC pipe kit didn't have the clamps and was missing the coupling to go to the FMIC and they said "it doesn't come with that last coupleing or clamps, re-use the stock ones"!!!!

The stock clamps are absolute crap and I wouldn't re-use them on a dare.

Also, you are absolutly correct about that negative battery terminal. That piece being the wrong size is unacceptable in a product costing this much in my view.

Worst thing about Buschur products: ----> no instructions... ever!

Best thing about Buschur products: ------> price to HP ratio

Keith

 

Where is this battery from. I cannot find it on Optimas website?

 

My bad. It's actually the Hawker OdysseyPC680. I got it from this webiste

http://www.batterymart.com/battery.mv?p=ODY-PC680MJ

Looks like their prices went up a bit.

 

When you get a chance can you post a pic a little closer up on the battery showing how you mounted it? Thanks.

 

Thanks for the write up. I think it was mostly positive so that is a good thing.

About some of it. The battery is the highest rated small battery we could find. I haven't heard of anyone having troubles starting their car YET That's a good thing with the cold weather and such that is upon most of us.

The battery is by far the biggest expense of the kit. The kit's lower plate is laser cut aluminum and the top is laser cut stainless. The two bolts that are in the kit are a standard battery tie down bolt but we have to cut them to length, make the small lower plate that is on them and then drill and TIG weld them together. The lower plate also has to be bent in the sheetmetal break wheen they come in. There is some time involved in the kits.

I apologize for the terminals. Nothing I can do about it though. That is what comes on the battery when we order them. The negative terminal is tight as hell, just as you said. We have found gently prying the factory clamp apart will let it slide over, it sucks, but it works and the batter has been working well.

The instructions are something that we have always lacked to be quite honest. I guess I build and design the stuff and in MY mind it is easy to do. I figure anyone that has the ***** to order the stuff and do the work can probably figure it out, as you did.

We do include instructions with some things. The exhaust and AFC are two things that they get shipped with.

As for the intercooler pipe kit. The factory clamps are actually damn good. Better than you are going to get from NAPA or Pep boys. Once the stock i/c pipe kit is removed you have a ton of extra clamps, I see no need in upping the price of the kits to just give you more clamps. We have the stock clamps on our IC pipe kit in our car and they are holding up fine to dyno run after dyno run and have held the hoses together at 11.65 at 117 mph. I try to keep the costs down, this is one way to do it.

Also the lower coupling to the stock intercooler HAS to be re-used. If you notice that coupling is a 90 degree bend. This is one more item that makes NO sense in replacing. When you order our FMIC kit we then have to change that coupling and we include it with our FMIC kit. There are reasons for most things we do. Cost is usually one of the things we try to watch. It allows us to supply a superior product at a lower cost. Most people would choose to run the stock clamps if they new it was going to save them $10 and the ones we would send were basically the same. They would also not want the $40 in clamps to be added if we wanted to include the t-bolt clamps we use in the race applications. As for the coupling on the stock intercooler, that would cost an additional $30 if we included it in silicone, that is another rediculous cost if we don't have to add it. Hopefully you can understand why we do some things the way we do.

Thanks again for the input and believe it or not most of the time I like to explain why we do things how we do. I think it enlightens a lot of people to our approach on performance.

Take care guys,

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

David,

Thanks for the feedback. Overall I'm pleased with the battery kit. As I said, the time spent cramming the negative terminal on to the battery was frustrating. I had visions of splitting the terminal while prying it apart. It all worked out in the end.

I'm really looking forward to installing the rest of the kit as soon as it comes in. If you see an order from Mach V, put an express on it!

 

hey if any of u guy wanna buy a used buschur battery for 150 with a oddasseybattery email me turborsohc@aol.com

 

See, this is the reason instructions would be nice. If I don't have instructions saying "re-use stock clamps and the coupling that connects to the FMIC" I assume something was left out of the kit and waste my time and yours making a phone call to your shop.

Perhaps some factory clamps are better than others.....seems like they have gone way cheap with the latter EVO's. I litterally had one of the clamps fall apart in my hand when I tried to take it off, and the area where the worm gear engages the band was bent all to hell on about half of the clamps. After buying some good clamps and finding out I needed to use the stock coupling (had to dig it out of the junk) I am perfectly happy with the kit and how it fits/looks on the car.

Keith

 

You only have to tighten the hose clamps so far. They actually have torquing spec even for the clamps on the intercooler pipes. I believe the torque spec is 24 ft lbs, well thats what it says in my cd manual.

 

Personally, I'll pick up some stainless steel t-bolt clamps from McMaster-Carr. They're about $3.60 each & cheap insurance against leaks. I've had too much experience with boost leaks on my previous twin turboed S4.

 

Ya i agree with you t-bolts are always better

 

You can find them stocked at most NAPA stores for about the same price...

 

sorry to bring this thread up from the dead but has anybody tried installing this with the HKS RS intake? I just did and found that I had to reposition the intake slightly (read : use a little force) to make it fit, and then just barly. Anyone else had this problem?