Ok, I got a few requests to post instructions on how to relocate the battery to the trunk, so here goes. Vince (GuruDel) and I were surprised at how easy this was, and would rate it about a 4 on the difficulty scale.

Parts:
- battery relocation kit (PAW, Summit Racing, Kragen, etc.) $50-80
- (optional) battery box $10-15
- electrical tape
* if no relocation kit, you need about 16' of red 2ga wire, 2' of black 2 ga wire, 2 lugs (crimps with holes), 2 battery terminals, (optional) battery tray if you don't wish to reuse the original one.

Tools:
- power drill and various drill bits (1/8" and larger)
- metric socket set (10mm-17mm)
- metric open ended wrenches or ratchet wrenches (10mm-17mm)
- flathead screwdriver
- utility knife
- Channelloc pliers or vise grips
- coat hanger/bailing wire/tiewire

1. Remove battery, battery tray, and ground (black wire) *Do not leave battery directly on asphault as it can drain the battery.

2. Remove passenger side door sills, B pillar bottom, and front kickboard (most of these should just pop right out or have a plug)

3. Feed bare end of red wire from trunk through the passenger side of the trunk, then along the side of the passenger side door sills.

4. Find the rubber boot that has a bunch of wires running through the fire wall with it. On the engine bay side, cut an X for a small hole in the rubber boot.

5. Using a coat hanger or tie wire as a fish tape, push it through the boot from the engine bay until it can be seen in the passenger compartment.

6. Crimp fish tape around the red wire and gently pull through the rubber boot.

7. Pull slack from red wire until there is about 3' left in the trunk, and replace plasitc doorsills, B pillar, and kick panel.

8. Route the red wire to reach the original battery location. Strip 3/4" of the wire and crimp on the cable lug. Using original battery terminal, attach red wire to it and the original wires connected to it. Wrap entire connection in electrical tape to avoid causing a short.
*We bent and tore off the terminal part to reduce exposed metal and avoid a short.

9. Set battery tray in desired location in the trunk and mark where the mounting holes should go. Drill holes, starting with a smaller bit and going larger until the holes are large enough for the j-hooks or bolts they are meant for.
*We used j-hooks directly into the floorpan. If you use an alternate battery tray, you may bolt it to the floor with 4 bolts and use the j-hooks on it.

10. Mount battery and tray firmly in chosen location. Attach positive (red) terminal to battery.

11. Unscrew the closest trunk bolt and use it to attach the ground (black wire) to the trunk floorpan. Attach ground terminal to battery.

12. Check to make sure there are no bad connections or bared wires and start car.

Thanks to Vince for helping me out on this install. This took 2 people about 2 hours to complete.

 

this is a great write up but just needs some finishing touches, this is what i experienced along my relocation...

step 1. before removing the battery, remove the bolt on the positive side that holds the 3 wires on top of each other, i removed everything and then we had no leverage to get that bolt off and it was HARD


step 8. it is easier if you go out and buy one of those little doohookies that you can crimp the wire on and it has a flat little circle, then you can bolt it up with the rest of the wires as i described in step 1

step 9. be VERY watchful where you drill your holes, most people are goign to mount it on the right side i assume, and if you look underneath there is a pillar under your car, along with the muffler, i had to drill 2 more sets of holes because the muffler was in the way

step 12. the only thing i recommend doing before thinking your done is getting some silicone sealer, costs like $5, and silicone the bottom of the jhooks from underneath the car and from the inside, this will prevent any of the outside elements from getting in the car, and will also keep the jhooks nice and secure, i had a problem with them moving around and the bolts loosening

good luck!

 

u guys rule!!

i may do this sometime...so i can do like urban said in another post about getting more ducting to the intake

 

Turboit, the relocation kit I had already came with one of those crimp connectors with the circle on it (whatever it's actually called), but you're right that we had some trouble taking the positive connectors off after moving the battery. Nothing vice grips can't solve

 

what exactly do you do with the negative end of the old battery cable up in the engine bay, remove it or just attach it to the car body?

 

We just tucked it away inside the engine compartment, since all it is is a ground, but you could remove it if you want.

 

yea, my kit had connectors with it, but we couldnt figure out how to crimp it on the wire, the thing was made of like steel, so i just taped it on temporarily

 

We used vice grips for a large portion of the install but I think mine was made of steel.

BTW Andrew, if you see this can you clean it up and sticky it like the rest of the threads? I know you were out of town, but you're back now... or I could get off my lazy @$$ and PM you

 

did any of you notice that after the battery relocation that the car takes a little bit longer to start up?

i have heard that along with relocating the battery you should also purchase a remote solenoid kit (summitracing sell this)

 

I have no trouble starting my car. Only the first time after the relocation did it hesitate, but it does that any time I disconnect the battery. Other than that, my car starts just like before.

 

good guide

thanx!

 

Any pictures of the work?

 

Not trying to go too OT, but I'm not sure why leaving the battery on asphalt drains it? Explanation please?

 

it is probably because the asphalt acts as a ground and starts conducting .... and you loose power maybe hmmm

 

Here ya go. This is the trunk.