Relocating the battery (How to)

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Sep 11, 2005 | 01:21 AM

#76

twardnw

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From: Vancouver, WA

correct, should work no problem w/o one, just VERY IMPORTANT to get one in there, don't put that off

Sep 11, 2005 | 01:22 AM

#77

mojoe

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From: Peoria, AZ

I won't... I don't want my beautiful car bursting into flames. I'll do it first thing monday morning probably.

Sep 11, 2005 | 01:14 PM

#78

mojoe

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From: Peoria, AZ

Quote:

Originally Posted by twardOZRally

well, 2 ga should be plenty, go through with a voltmeter, check to make sure there's power at the front, then check fuses. I would DEFINITELY get a fuse back with the battery. If something were to short out that 2 ga cable before the connection in the engine bay, your car would become toast

What do I need to have the voltmeter set at settings wise and where do I place the wands in the front to check if power is getting up there? Anyone? Thanks so much for the help!

Sep 11, 2005 | 07:13 PM

#79

twardnw

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From: Vancouver, WA

sorry man, but if you have to ask that, I'm going to tell you to find someone in your area to help you out.

Sep 11, 2005 | 10:58 PM

#80

mojoe

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It wouldn't have been that hard for you to answer would it?

Anyway it's all good because I figured it out myself and got it all working. So gracias for all the help.

Jan 17, 2007 | 09:00 PM

#81

JohnnyBoy427

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From: Iowa

Great thread and i might even go and relocate mine and add extra air ducts leading to my SRI. The whole subject of the fumes doesnt really bother me because my dad has a 1996 Audi A6 and guess where the battery is. Right under the back seat. I thought it was pretty strange but would definitely make installing some subs really easy.

Jan 17, 2007 | 09:19 PM

#82

lancerman360

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From: Lufkin, Texas

yeah I still have not got around to this. I plan to one day.

Jan 17, 2007 | 09:42 PM

#83

03_Lancer_ES

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I think the rule of thumb for fuses is to not have the load exceed 80% of the capacity of the fuse, at least in all the Residential and otherwise electrical i've done...