All ACD lights on.... Need a new pump?
Yupp and this was the result:
ABS Codes:
32 - G sensor system
71 - Lateral G sensor fault
12 - lf wheel speed sensor circuit open/short (been replaced, still on)
22 - LF wheel speed sensor erratic
ACD Codes:
26 - speed sensor
25 - Deformed Tyre
22 - FL Sensor open
65 - ABS open
The guy I bought the car from gave me 4 spare used ABS sensors and I replaced the left front one the day after I bought it but the code remained.
ABS Codes:
32 - G sensor system
71 - Lateral G sensor fault
12 - lf wheel speed sensor circuit open/short (been replaced, still on)
22 - LF wheel speed sensor erratic
ACD Codes:
26 - speed sensor
25 - Deformed Tyre
22 - FL Sensor open
65 - ABS open
The guy I bought the car from gave me 4 spare used ABS sensors and I replaced the left front one the day after I bought it but the code remained.
Yupp and this was the result:
ABS Codes:
32 - G sensor system
71 - Lateral G sensor fault
12 - lf wheel speed sensor circuit open/short (been replaced, still on)
22 - LF wheel speed sensor erratic
ACD Codes:
26 - speed sensor
25 - Deformed Tyre
22 - FL Sensor open
65 - ABS open
The guy I bought the car from gave me 4 spare used ABS sensors and I replaced the left front one the day after I bought it but the code remained.
ABS Codes:
32 - G sensor system
71 - Lateral G sensor fault
12 - lf wheel speed sensor circuit open/short (been replaced, still on)
22 - LF wheel speed sensor erratic
ACD Codes:
26 - speed sensor
25 - Deformed Tyre
22 - FL Sensor open
65 - ABS open
The guy I bought the car from gave me 4 spare used ABS sensors and I replaced the left front one the day after I bought it but the code remained.
btw, i really appreciat the quick replies. its memebers like you that makes this site great
Hahahaha nothin much better to do on my lunch break. Eat and surf the evo forums. After you've done all that and hear no noise do all three lights come on after a minute or so??
Hopefully all of this will help the op and everyone else on the subject.
A test light, or even better a DMM (digital multi-meter), will be needed. You can pull the bumper, or try reaching the acd plug from under the car. Unplug it and check for power at the red wire and ground at the black. You can also run jumper wires from the battery to the pump and see if it kicks on. Personally I started with the easily accessable items since I was working in my driveway with the car on the ground, but it would eliminate the fuse and relay and diagnose the pump bad a little quicker. The acd runs a fusable link on the positive teminal connection at the battery. Make sure its not blown. Test for power across both sides of that link, it is the one on the left side of the terminal (looking at the battery from the front of the car) 50 amp I believe. The one on the right side is 100 amp and thats for the alt. If the fusable link is good the next spot is the relay. Thats why I asked if you can hear it click once the lights turn on. The relay is on the firewall, passenger side. There will be two relays. One relay and the injector resistor box are mounted together down lower. The acd relay is mounted by itself. Have someone try priming the pump, wait for the lights and listen/feel for the relay to click. If it does click move on to testing the load circuit for power. The relay needs power on one side and ground on the other side of the small pins. One should be present at all times, the acd ecu will control the other, which should turn on once you try priming the pump. Get two of your wife's sowing pins and backprobe them into the relay plug. After attempting to prime the pump check for power and ground across the relay. If power and ground are present the relay is bad. If one is not you most likely have a bad wire, which will have to be found. The large pins are your load curcuit, one side (white wire, red tracer) will have power coming from the battery. The red wire runs to the acd pump. You need to check that the battery power is making it there. Backprobe those wires, after attempting to prime the pump make sure the power is making it through the relay. If not, bad relay. If it is making it through you'll need to test for power at the pump. If you have power to the pump, jump power and ground to the pump from the battery and see if it turns on. If not the pump is most likely damaged or seized.
A test light, or even better a DMM (digital multi-meter), will be needed. You can pull the bumper, or try reaching the acd plug from under the car. Unplug it and check for power at the red wire and ground at the black. You can also run jumper wires from the battery to the pump and see if it kicks on. Personally I started with the easily accessable items since I was working in my driveway with the car on the ground, but it would eliminate the fuse and relay and diagnose the pump bad a little quicker. The acd runs a fusable link on the positive teminal connection at the battery. Make sure its not blown. Test for power across both sides of that link, it is the one on the left side of the terminal (looking at the battery from the front of the car) 50 amp I believe. The one on the right side is 100 amp and thats for the alt. If the fusable link is good the next spot is the relay. Thats why I asked if you can hear it click once the lights turn on. The relay is on the firewall, passenger side. There will be two relays. One relay and the injector resistor box are mounted together down lower. The acd relay is mounted by itself. Have someone try priming the pump, wait for the lights and listen/feel for the relay to click. If it does click move on to testing the load circuit for power. The relay needs power on one side and ground on the other side of the small pins. One should be present at all times, the acd ecu will control the other, which should turn on once you try priming the pump. Get two of your wife's sowing pins and backprobe them into the relay plug. After attempting to prime the pump check for power and ground across the relay. If power and ground are present the relay is bad. If one is not you most likely have a bad wire, which will have to be found. The large pins are your load curcuit, one side (white wire, red tracer) will have power coming from the battery. The red wire runs to the acd pump. You need to check that the battery power is making it there. Backprobe those wires, after attempting to prime the pump make sure the power is making it through the relay. If not, bad relay. If it is making it through you'll need to test for power at the pump. If you have power to the pump, jump power and ground to the pump from the battery and see if it turns on. If not the pump is most likely damaged or seized.
Last edited by Boostin_AWD; Jun 15, 2012 at 02:22 PM.
Abs sensors should throw a fault code, which would then throw the abs light. I covered that the abs is and input to the acd and must be functioning in order for the acd to opperate.
In my case, the motor works fine. The pump is not building enough pressure. I simply put a plug into the ACD outlet and listened for it to build pressure (pump slowing down). Never built pressure.
The easiest way to determine what the problem is....
1.) turn key to "on" position.
2.) depress gas pedal.
If the pump is working properly, you will hear the pump slow down a good bit, then shut off.
Motor works, pump is building pressure, sensor is working.
If you hear the pump run for more than 10 seconds or so and doesn't really slow down that much, the pump needs rebuilt. The motor is obviously working fine.
If you don't hear the motor turn on at all, either you have an electrical connection problem or the motor is bad.
1.) turn key to "on" position.
2.) depress gas pedal.
If the pump is working properly, you will hear the pump slow down a good bit, then shut off.
Motor works, pump is building pressure, sensor is working.
If you hear the pump run for more than 10 seconds or so and doesn't really slow down that much, the pump needs rebuilt. The motor is obviously working fine.
If you don't hear the motor turn on at all, either you have an electrical connection problem or the motor is bad.
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