tbryant0226

Is a tune required after you build your motor or can the stock ECU hold up (just for the startup). people have told me that the ECU will be smart enough to recognize it but it might run a little sluggish so I just want to clarify with you all if that's true or not. I searched on the forums and all I got was spun bearings Etc.. the reason I'm asking is because I don't want to spend the money right now because when I get the new tune, I want to make sure all the boost leaks are not present. Thanks:

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

What compression ratio is the new engine? Still a 2.0?

GTijoejoe

iTrader: (25)

"just for the start up"..... is it similar specs to a stock motor? = sure thing

MechTech

Are you willing to chance a freshly built motor?

tbryant0226

It's 8:5:1. And it's forged internals with 35r and not close to stock. Its a Stock crank. No I don't want to chance a new motor lol. I don't know if what I have is considered a 2.2 or 2.0?

PureDrivePerformance

You should probably check for boost leaks regardless of getting a tune.

For start up, monitor the AFR's. With that turbo, I'm sure you have bigger injectors. What are your mods? The stock ECU can handle a lot of stuff including a tune. I'm assuming you mean a stock tune. If it is, then the bigger injectors will be running rich. The front o2 sensor will try to compensate, but probably will still run rich.

tbryant0226

Thanks pure drive. I have 1000cc's, with ams fuel rail, built ported head, Walbro 255. Does this change anything?

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

Were the 1000cc's installed prior to getting the motor built? If the car's never been tuned for those injectors then you should at the very least get a basemap with ballpark scalings for those injectors.

Jerry321

iTrader: (2)

I would say yes. Even if your only mod was bigger injectors the car would run extremely rich even with light driving. You would flood the engine with fuel. Just finish all your part changes and mods then tow to tuner or get a quick flash from your tuner so you can drive it to them.

tbryant0226

Ah Raptord that's what I heard of before. The base map is what I need before my actual tune(break in period). But my friend told me that the evo ecu would be fine to start it up so I was just curious.
Jerry, thanks for the info. I was at a shop a while back and they had a boost leak tester(smoke). I wish I had one of those without paying so much money. I've seen people online using a coupler and a pvc pipe to make a leak tester. I might try that out. Is it efficient to find vacuum leaks anywhere?

Fireescape

Give your mod list to Chris from Pure Drive Performance (see a few posts up) and get him to remote tune your car. Chris tuned my Aussie spec Evo 9 and did a brilliant job, he is the BEST tuner on EvoM imo, and I've used others. You should really give him a go, you won't be sorry you did.

PureDrivePerformance

I'm trying to figure out if these are parts that your car was tuned for or new parts that you put on with your built motor. If you were tuned for these injectors then you should be ok. I'd just monitor the AFR's via EvoScan and a WB gauge.

Yes, make your own or siliconehose.com makes one and a bunch on eBay (make sure it fits your turbo).

Thanks man! I do base maps for builds all the time. I adjust it for idle and cruise just like I do for any other tune. The only difference is that we don't do any WOT tuning until the break in period is over.

BTW, for remote tuning you'd need a WB and a 1.3 Evoscan cable and software. http://www.evoscan.com/evoscan-gps-o...flashing-cable

tbryant0226

Hey Chris, my evo 9 was bone stock and I took apart the motor and then put the parts on and it hasn't ran since 2011. I'm planning to put it together this Christmas break, if not, bring it with me where I currently live in kansas. I have afr gauge installed but not boost controller. I plan on using the Greddy spec 2 because a friend recommended it to me. I appreciate all the feedback, it's helping me and also encouraging me to finish my project haha.

PureDrivePerformance

No problem man. Glad to help. I bet you seriously miss driving it!

IMHO, get a 3 port BCS, either a GM or Grimmspeed to control boost. You can also get a MBC or both for hybrid boost control.

Since your tune is stock, I recommend getting a remote tune Mainly because of the time needed to break in the motor. I can set you up with a base tune to break in the motor and schedule a time to do power tuning after the break in. LMK.

tbryant0226

Electronic Boost Control Solenoid 3-Port - Mitsubishi.i think this is what your talking about. I have no clue what this is. Is this the boost controller or is it a part of it? I was always firm about keeping the rpm's under 4k for the break in but people say that you have to vary the rpm's. I dunno but I'll stick to what my tuner says lol. PM me tuning details?