I've read on evom a lot of people having this same issue: This issue usually happens when I quickly accelerate (going into boost perhaps) and then suddenly stopping. So it happens during stop and go traffic.

When I am cruising and then pop it into neutral coming to a red-light, this doesn't happen.

So here is what I and a few mechanics have done:

1. Replaced IAC
2. Boost leak test (twice)
3. Replaced with stock BPV
4. Cleaned MAF
5. Made sure there was no play with the crank (no crankwalk)
6. Adjusted BISS screw

I took it to a tuner who also couldn't figure it out. Do you guys have any more ideas? Thanks!

 

This is a really common problems on 4-6's. What I did to solve it was bump up my idle 200rpm. A friends Evo 5 ended up sorting itself out but everytime his battery is out the ecu resets and he has to go through all of the stalling bs again.

 

not answering your question at all, but why are you ever above 3k rpm in stop and go traffic, let alone in boost?

did you replace IAC with an OE one or a cheapo?

 

I have a twin disk clutch and its a PITA to disengage. I usually need to give it a little rev in order to smoothly get into first.

I actually did replace it with a cheapo. I believe it was one of those Chrysler Sebring ones. Assuming the cheapo one works fine, do you recommend me resetting the ECU first so that my ISCV values go back to default?

 

I went through three cheapo's before dropping money on OE. This was over the course of 5-6 months that the three died on me

my symptoms were that the IAC was just fully extended so I'd start the car and have to give it gas to keep it idling above anything or it would stall. once it was warm it would idle at 800-900 but the IAC wasn't changing anything, it just wasn't dying because the car was warm

i recommend resetting the ECU yes. just pull the fuse. next time the car is turned to ON (not started) you will hear the IAC cycle through its range. you can keep it out of the car and watch it to visual test it when this happens

 

Thanks for the help. I think it would easier to just disconnect the battery wouldn't you agree since apparently there are multiple fuses that go to the ECU?

 

Reset the ECU by unplugging the negative terminal to my battery. As expected it did not fix the issue, actually made the stalling worse.

 

It'll re-learn

For future though, one of the fuses in the engine bay can be pulled and that's much easier than removing the negative terminal

 

Cool thanks, if this doesn't work I was planning on going SD anyways so I can keep my 50/50 Atmospheric BOV and get rid of MAF altogether.

 

^^ maybe that is why it is stalling by chance?

 

In the op I said I put the stock bpv back on.

 

whoops missed that. sorry. did you try a scan tool to see what the MAP sensor might be doing? i see you've cleaned the MAF. try installing someone elses and see what happens. i had stalling issues in mine a month ago. replaced plugs, cleaned maf, ran injector cleaners, replaced fuel ppump and filter and it turned out to be the MaP sensor losing signal and a MAF going bad. a MAF going bad will probably not throw a code due to it isnt completely dead just to let you know. but how is the trouble shooting coming along?

 

to add i replaced the CPS also and it didnt help.

 

No worries. Looks like you invested a lot of money/effort to find the problem. Hopefully mine ends up being a simple solution like yours.

No real updates, haven't had time to really drive around. I've decided to go speed density and will get the car retuned in a month. So that way we can eliminate the MAF sensor altogether.I'm making close to 500 whp on a BBK turbo built block (running e85) anyways so I could potentially gain a few ponies from Speed Density.

Quick question, If I want to go SD, I would need a 4 bar sensor and new intake piping (to get rid of the MAF sensor) correct? Besides the IAT, what else do I need?