Car Died in Drive, No Crank, Just ticks
Sep 30, 2016, 05:06 PM
#1
Car Died in Drive, No Crank, Just ticks
Car Died in Driveway*, No Crank, Just ticks
Started my car up routinely. The idle dipped after 10seconds and the car shut off. Went to go start it again and nothing.
Lights/Radio/Wipers all work, but nothing happened. No cranking, no ticking. No CEL.
Eventually, I held the key in the on position trying to start it and got a tick...... tick..... tick... tick.. tick. ticktickticktick.
Now the car ticks when trying to start it but still no crank. No CEL.
I'm working on charging the battery (4 years old). It's also raining outside pretty heavily at the moment.
Any ideas?
Started my car up routinely. The idle dipped after 10seconds and the car shut off. Went to go start it again and nothing.
Lights/Radio/Wipers all work, but nothing happened. No cranking, no ticking. No CEL.
Eventually, I held the key in the on position trying to start it and got a tick...... tick..... tick... tick.. tick. ticktickticktick.
Now the car ticks when trying to start it but still no crank. No CEL.
I'm working on charging the battery (4 years old). It's also raining outside pretty heavily at the moment.
Any ideas?
Sep 30, 2016, 05:27 PM
#3
EvoM Community Team Leader
Check/clean the battery terminals. With the battery hooked and with some kind of draw on it (Cabin light etc) what is the voltage you read across the battery terminals?
Sep 30, 2016, 05:55 PM
#5
Twas the terminals. Cleaned up and she started right up.
How long does the idle relearn process take? After starting it up it died and couple of times before idling pretty rough and kinda of stuttering a bit on rev ups. stopped for the night because of angry neighbors
Tuned by tscomptuned on speed density.
How long does the idle relearn process take? After starting it up it died and couple of times before idling pretty rough and kinda of stuttering a bit on rev ups. stopped for the night because of angry neighbors
Tuned by tscomptuned on speed density.
Sep 30, 2016, 08:22 PM
#6
Evolved Member
Normally about 15 - 30 minutes of city driving.
I keep a tub of multi-purpose, aka wheel bearing, aka axle grease on hand. Put a dab of that on the battery post before installing the clamp and never have this problem again (you do have to renew it from time to time). If you notice corrosion on the battery hold-down clean with soda and apply grease there too.
I keep a tub of multi-purpose, aka wheel bearing, aka axle grease on hand. Put a dab of that on the battery post before installing the clamp and never have this problem again (you do have to renew it from time to time). If you notice corrosion on the battery hold-down clean with soda and apply grease there too.
Last edited by barneyb; Sep 30, 2016 at 09:21 PM.
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Oct 2, 2016, 09:41 AM
#9
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by barneyb
Normally about 15 - 30 minutes of city driving.
I keep a tub of multi-purpose, aka wheel bearing, aka axle grease on hand. Put a dab of that on the battery post before installing the clamp and never have this problem again (you do have to renew it from time to time). If you notice corrosion on the battery hold-down clean with soda and apply grease there too.
I keep a tub of multi-purpose, aka wheel bearing, aka axle grease on hand. Put a dab of that on the battery post before installing the clamp and never have this problem again (you do have to renew it from time to time). If you notice corrosion on the battery hold-down clean with soda and apply grease there too.
Oct 3, 2016, 12:46 PM
#10
Okay, I got this sorted out.
Story time boys:
Car had a bad connection on the terminal like stated previously. However, the car also has dual tunes. When i cleaned the terminals, the ecu reset and RESET to the default tune (93 octane). The car has e85 it in which is why it wouldn't idle properly.
Swapped the terminal and swapped to the correct tune and she fired right up with no idle relearn or anything.
Story time boys:
Car had a bad connection on the terminal like stated previously. However, the car also has dual tunes. When i cleaned the terminals, the ecu reset and RESET to the default tune (93 octane). The car has e85 it in which is why it wouldn't idle properly.
Swapped the terminal and swapped to the correct tune and she fired right up with no idle relearn or anything.
Oct 3, 2016, 01:43 PM
#11
Evolved Member
Dielectric grease is a fancy name for silicon grease. Silicon grease is especially useful as a lubricant on rubber wiring harness parts such as spark plug boots since it helps prevent the boot from adhering to the porcelain plug as well as resisting the escape of spark. Silicon grease is also used on sliding caliper brake pins because regular grease causes the boots to balloon. Apparently, even though there are rubber hydraulic hoses and all sorts of other rubber parts in contact with hot oil, it isn't possible to make a brake boot of the same stuff.
The downside of using dielectric grease under the hood is that more and more seals and other things are being made of silicon rubber, even spark plug wires. Silicon grease on silicon rubber will damage it. A lot of o-rings are now made of silicon rubber. Even tires are going to silicon rubber.
So, is a battery post a good application for silicon grease? It works, the only purpose of grease here is to keep out moisture. But, it is much more expensive than regular grease which does the same thing.
As for the spray on coatings, they too work on battery posts. The important thing to remember is to spray it on before installing the clamp. Otherwise the surface you are trying to protect sees no coating. Again, the spray on stuff is more expensive.
I don't use petroleum grease on rubber and I am becoming hesitant on using silicon grease on rubber too. I keep a spray bottle in the shop containing a mixture of dawn dish detergent and water I use when a rubber lubricant is needed.
A tub of grease is cheap and like compressed air, once you have it you find yourself reaching for it often.
The downside of using dielectric grease under the hood is that more and more seals and other things are being made of silicon rubber, even spark plug wires. Silicon grease on silicon rubber will damage it. A lot of o-rings are now made of silicon rubber. Even tires are going to silicon rubber.
So, is a battery post a good application for silicon grease? It works, the only purpose of grease here is to keep out moisture. But, it is much more expensive than regular grease which does the same thing.
As for the spray on coatings, they too work on battery posts. The important thing to remember is to spray it on before installing the clamp. Otherwise the surface you are trying to protect sees no coating. Again, the spray on stuff is more expensive.
I don't use petroleum grease on rubber and I am becoming hesitant on using silicon grease on rubber too. I keep a spray bottle in the shop containing a mixture of dawn dish detergent and water I use when a rubber lubricant is needed.
A tub of grease is cheap and like compressed air, once you have it you find yourself reaching for it often.
Oct 4, 2016, 06:58 AM
#12
Dielectric grease is a fancy name for silicon grease. Silicon grease is especially useful as a lubricant on rubber wiring harness parts such as spark plug boots since it helps prevent the boot from adhering to the porcelain plug as well as resisting the escape of spark. Silicon grease is also used on sliding caliper brake pins because regular grease causes the boots to balloon. Apparently, even though there are rubber hydraulic hoses and all sorts of other rubber parts in contact with hot oil, it isn't possible to make a brake boot of the same stuff.
The downside of using dielectric grease under the hood is that more and more seals and other things are being made of silicon rubber, even spark plug wires. Silicon grease on silicon rubber will damage it. A lot of o-rings are now made of silicon rubber. Even tires are going to silicon rubber.
So, is a battery post a good application for silicon grease? It works, the only purpose of grease here is to keep out moisture. But, it is much more expensive than regular grease which does the same thing.
As for the spray on coatings, they too work on battery posts. The important thing to remember is to spray it on before installing the clamp. Otherwise the surface you are trying to protect sees no coating. Again, the spray on stuff is more expensive.
I don't use petroleum grease on rubber and I am becoming hesitant on using silicon grease on rubber too. I keep a spray bottle in the shop containing a mixture of dawn dish detergent and water I use when a rubber lubricant is needed.
A tub of grease is cheap and like compressed air, once you have it you find yourself reaching for it often.
The downside of using dielectric grease under the hood is that more and more seals and other things are being made of silicon rubber, even spark plug wires. Silicon grease on silicon rubber will damage it. A lot of o-rings are now made of silicon rubber. Even tires are going to silicon rubber.
So, is a battery post a good application for silicon grease? It works, the only purpose of grease here is to keep out moisture. But, it is much more expensive than regular grease which does the same thing.
As for the spray on coatings, they too work on battery posts. The important thing to remember is to spray it on before installing the clamp. Otherwise the surface you are trying to protect sees no coating. Again, the spray on stuff is more expensive.
I don't use petroleum grease on rubber and I am becoming hesitant on using silicon grease on rubber too. I keep a spray bottle in the shop containing a mixture of dawn dish detergent and water I use when a rubber lubricant is needed.
A tub of grease is cheap and like compressed air, once you have it you find yourself reaching for it often.
Lube my components with compressed air.
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