Its a very mild evo ix: TBE* LICP* EBC* larger injectors and 255 fuel pump.

I would like to make the car faster and still keep a solid power band. The car just hit 100k and is up to date on all maintenance.

What steps should I take to achieve said power levels and in what order of importance on the mods.

Anything helps just looking for some input.

 

If you want to be reliable @ >=500WHP you will need bottom end work. Otherwise a turbo upgrade should get you into your goal range. Cams + E85 + Turbo would certainly get you there. Keep in mind other supporting mods that need to be upgraded with higher power like the clutch. Then there are things that are good to have on an evo pushing a decent amount more power then stock, like a wideband, datalogging etc.

 

Many guys run 500whp on a stock bottom end hell there’s a whole thread on it on here somewhere he just has to keep the torque in check heck I’m shooting for 500 with 100%. Meth with an fp black

 

Yah sure you can do it, I said reliable. Reliable is relative to how you use the car. If you only need it to make 500whp on a dyno for a few seconds then yah you might call it reliable under those conditions.

 

If the engine is healthy I would put a JB FP MHI red on it. The FP line is proven to produce strong repeatable numbers. A -10 line on the VC back to the intake pipe to decrease crankcase pressure. ID1300 injectors , Enough fuel pump for 500whp. Run E85 and get tuned by a reputable tuner . Keep the TQ below 400lb ft . The basics should also be done and checked periodically (spark plugs gapped at .018-.022,boost leak test etc)

Having a wide band is given in a boosted car IMO. You can buy your own tuning cable to pull logs and make small changes if the ecu file isn't locked.

You can also take a class or read about engine tuning so you know whats going on.

If the engine has lived a good life and everything is in line it should live a long time on good fuel and torque kept at a reasonable level. But nothing is guaranteed with an engine.

But if the past is unknown on the engine,it could have a higher chance of breaking. There are alot of people that run cold engines hard, or rattle things on pump gas,run too much boost,or aren't aware of issues. It may be a good idea to build an engine. At that point there are plenty of options but for a street car I would put a larger crank in it so it drives better.

A simple rule to live by is low boost for pump gas, high boost for E85/racegas. Good fuel is too cheap IMO to risk running stuff hard on pump gas.

 

Many guys run those numbers all day long reliable not just a pull on the dyno hell look at Erin’s car from English racing before he built it, it was making over 600whp and the motor was perfectly fine when he pulled it to build it and it was daily driven like that for 10k plus miles. It’s all in the torque and keeping that in check HP doesn’t kill our cars it’s the torque and there’s ways to manage that

 

reliability for me means surviving "as is" for at least a timing belt interval. There are always outliers, they don't make the rule though. Many have blown up their engines at less than 500whp, and not just because they did something wrong.

I'm not just pulling this outta my *** here, straight from the


Obviously this is not the end all be all of 4g63t engines but its something. The book is older and a lot has been accomplished since its publication but the wheel hasn't been reinvented or anything. There is plenty of carnage documented in these forums as well if you look.

 

600whp is 100% leaning things very hard. My car went 3yrs, 35k miles at 500whp/400wtq before kicking a stock rod out. These things aren't bulletproof. And you are shortening the life when you run things turned up. It's doable. But things don't last forever.

 

I made that and I seen more than that on stock bottom, turbo system, fuel , intercooler, exhaust and ecu flash should get you there and if you have E85 tune even better!

 

This is sort of why I am satisfied with my 350whp/355wtq on my E85 tune. Sure I can squeeze more, especially if I throw in a HTA71. But I want to be able to beat on the car at the track all day, and bring it back home for continued daily driving duties. A good tune at the end of the day though, is what usually saves your engine from grenading itself.

 

I totally understand that I’m making 391/385t on a built head stock turbo 100%meth and I’ve seen built motors last for 5k there no knowing how long one will last unless you try many stock bottom end cars out there with 450+ so I’m saying he can do it and it might last years or it might last weeks you take a gamble modding any car

 

I've been at ~450/400 for 5-6 years now with 170k on my stock shortblock (minus the balance shafts). For the 4 years before that I was at ~420/380. The whole time on E85.

 

I'm not against building the short block if it means my car will be reliable for years to come. My tuner told me to build the block of I want to go 450+ anyways.

I was even looking at english racing street spec short block. Its very expensive compared to what my local shop can do.

As far as fuel is concerned I have e85 available so that's the go to choice.

Now on to the turbo. I have read a lot of problems with the fp red line in terms of oil issues. What is the best most reliable turbo out there?

Thanks for the time.

 

I have a CBRD BBK-3b which also uses the mhi back housing, it’s basically a 2.0 dominator Blouch turbo, it flows I believe 57-58 lb min which is just a tad less then a fp Red . I have had no issues with it to date have about 12k miles on it. You do see people selling them occasionally on the site, lot people also run the BBk- full. I may be selling mine soon or early next year/ winter as I may move up to a pte 6466.