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Built block
Oem head valves
gsc springs and retainers
S2cams
A few days ago I took my in to install a ams oil pan, kiggly hla and retorqueing my 625 head studs.
Changed the oil from break in sae30 to 10w40.
When the car warmed up I started hearing a strange ticking sound which was coming from right side of the head, the shop said that is lifter sound that are ticking so we bleed the lifters but the sound still stayed, we changed the lifter for new ones but the sound didn't go away which only started after the car is warmed up.
It only got louder with all rpms.
Suspected something wrong with the block which has only 500miles on it the blocked and pistons had no sign of valves touching or anything broken.
Upon checking the head we found that one bank intake and exhaust valved had marks on it of Contact with each other.
What could had caused this to happen? The valves are not bent but made loud tixking sound, the oil which was taken out was clean and no sign of metal or anything else in it.
The engine just done its 500miles break in and never seen boost, the timing was all correct too.
Last edited by Wheelspk; Nov 30, 2021 at 05:22 AM.
This is good for me to learn from.
Because it's just the one set of valves that rules out a timing problem, correct?
So then how else can this happen? I'd assume bent valves can't even be installed properly cause they bind or did someone have a hammer instead of lube?
Update*
I took out the damaged valves and replace with used one off a used head,
When the engine is cold there is defently low amount of tick but as the engine warms up idel tick goes away but still comes when I'm driving till oil tem reach 80°c then it becomes like close too no tick.. At that point I think I'm hearing injector ticks or I have too listion really close too notice anything... And at 80°c of oil temp there is like only 10% ticking even when revving and no tick when at idel.
did you get your valve guides replaced with your build? also 10w30 is too thin for a built motor
I'm used my oem head and installed gsc valve springs, retainers and s2cams. So no we didn't replace valve guides, tho my guides had minimal movement (play) in them.
I'm using 10w40 amsoil the motor was broken in with sae30 breakin oil
There definitely very low tick when driving and on different rpms the low amount of tick is constant
But non at idel after fully warmed up only when engine is cold.
Temporarily reassemble the head onto the block with cams and timing gears and belt. Insert a borescope into the cylinder with the valves that have witness marks and appear to be touching. Observe these valves as you rotate the motor to see if they are actually touching. If touching, check the stem lengths and projection above the spring seating surface are within specs:
Temporarily reassemble the head onto the block with cams and timing gears and belt. Insert a borescope into the cylinder with the valves that have witness marks and appear to be touching. Observe these valves as you rotate the motor to see if they are actually touching. If touching, check the stem lengths and projection above the spring seating surface are within specs:
If everything is in spec double check the valve timing to make sure there is not too much overlap, which could also cause them to touch.
Nothing is touching... There is no sigh of piston touching the valves, that's what is confusing me.
My head is stock with only s2 cans and springs stock valves and never been decked plus I ran the car for 1000mles on break in and there was no sound and after I did a oil change the ticking sound started.
The block is new and built and o ringed, new evo 9 head gasket... If any thing was touching the sound would had came on startup or at 1k miles.
I have lifted the head and there is zero sign of touching the pistons or valves... Only I can see are valves touching each other.