I've tried to program the key FOB multiple times with the correct sequence as follows -

1) Key in the ignition, Off position

2) within 10 sec jump pins 1 & 4

3) within another 10 sec push Hazard button 6x and the locks cycle to confirm going into program mode

4) Press Lock button on FOB 3x but nothing happens (the locks do not cycle again and the FOB is not programmed)

I've tried multiple different brands of new batteries, including one pulled from another working FOB. Few years back I looked into this while I worked at a used car lot. We had a key FOB programmer, so I was able to test the FOB to verify it was working (can't remember what frequency its was).

I did some research and it seems like a lot of people encounter this issue because of the ignition key switch (little white box on side of where key goes in ignition) or the 2 green wires that run to it. I guess it is easily damaged due to turbo timer installs or ripping the plastics of the steering column out. The essential symptom of knowing the ignition key switch is the problem is the door chime while the key is NOT in the ignition. My door chime only goes when the door is open and my key is IN the ignition. I've also looked over the wiring.

Looked into the ETACS possibly not working. From the information I can find it seems to me that I would have more problems than just my key fob not working if it was the ETACS.

I feel like I've exhausted pretty much every option and the only 2 likely sources of the problem could either be the ETACS or trying out a new FOB. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Is that the routine for chip or fob? They are similar but different and I don't recall which is what.

 

That’s the sequence to program the FOB to the car.

I’m getting all the way to the point where I hit the lock button on the FOB 3 times, but the FOB does not program for me (also tried hitting the lock button once slowly and quickly 2 times after that as some people have suggested). You’ll know the FOB has been programmed when the locks cycle again just as it did when entering the programming mode. This is the last step in programming the FOB.

 

Found another thread with some good info on our OEM FOBs. The OEM FOB should have the numbers G8D-525M-A on the back and on the circuit board inside. Another user said that the correct replacement FOB would be , however I did find another cheaper FOB (https://www.ebay.com/itm/133614231557) that looks exactly the same and claims it works on Evos. The OEM FOB has now been discontinued.

Looks like I have the OEM FOB, but its seen better days. I'm being hopeful that this is my issue at this point but I don't know what else would cause the issue of getting into program mode but not being able to program the FOB. For ~$20, its worth a shot.

I did read in another thread that the immobilizer can be turned off in the tune (my Evo is Tephra v7 tuned by Boostin Performance), but I don't see why that would have been done on my car or if that would affect the key FOB functionality or not.

At the very least, hoping this helps someone out in the future.

 

Yeah, I have a good pile of chips n fob bits n key husks collecting over the years. I really wanna get the single unit key/fob combo working. Key is cut no problem, chip seems to start the car...but the fob won't do it's thing!

 

My new FOB arrived. No luck.

Tried another brand of new battery in the new FOB and checked the fuses related to keys/locks. Checked over the wiring around the key ignition and symptoms still do not add up to it being the ignition key switch. I did notice that it looks like someone tapped into some ignition wires off of the ignition switch with an extension harness (turbo timer?) but its not breaking any circuits, etc (just a 'T' off of those ignition wires). To reiterate, the power locks work fine. Also noticed that when I get it into programming mode the ANTI-LOCK light flashes on the dash (pretty sure this signifies its in key FOB programming mode).

Going to keep researching and looking things over but not sure where to go from here.

I read in another thread that only a specific FOB would work, and I don't think it was the single unit key/FOB. Could be wrong though.

 

I keep looking at actual fob/key cloner machines and the prices started at like 3k years ago but now like 400. Suckers hit 200 bux and I'm in JUST FOR THIS.

 

Any other update on this? I have the exact same issue that 9TechNine9 is describing. Get all the way to programming mode, but can't program the FOB. I have the same ID as he specified (...525M-A) but nothing. I checked all of the fuses and found one (on the engine bay fuse box - 10 Amper) that was blown out. Replaced it, but it still not working.

My door/key chime is good. Power lock works.

Coming out empty handed here.