My Evo work-in-progress pics
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Sep 7, 2004, 08:38 AM
#34
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What's Bling without Zing?
Last updated for a while.... here's the dyno comparisons. These are uncorrected numbers and to be fair, it should be said that the first two runs (baseline and stage1) were done at altitude with 91 craptane gas... 
l8r)
l8r)
Sep 7, 2004, 09:08 AM
#36
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nice!!! good progress pics like where you are going
cool seeing the dynamating...never really seen that doen before since i new at this stuff still
cool seeing the dynamating...never really seen that doen before since i new at this stuff still
Oct 15, 2004, 10:50 AM
#37
ok, hate to bring up an old thread...BUT, where did you get your gauges? or where have you guys found to be a good site with descent prices on guages. i wanted the defi BF series, but i don't want my boost guage to read bar and i don't really want 60mm. any of you guys fit 60mm gauges into the center panel shown in this thread?
Oct 15, 2004, 11:34 AM
#38
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People have fit 60mm gauges into the panel. Search for "craighardy" ... there should be a huge thread on that panel.
I got my Omori gauges from Vishnu. If you do end up getting them from Vishnu, and they don't come with the right fittings, lemme know and I can tell you where to get the correct fittings.
l8r)
I got my Omori gauges from Vishnu. If you do end up getting them from Vishnu, and they don't come with the right fittings, lemme know and I can tell you where to get the correct fittings.
l8r)
Last edited by Ludikraut; Oct 19, 2004 at 05:38 PM. Reason: Posted some pics for Jeff
Feb 23, 2005, 04:04 PM
#39
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new wheels
Wheels are (off the Discount Tire sheet):
p/n 53651 - 18x8 5-114.3 30BR MB Motorsports Weapon 789 $164 ea.
and I had them put Continental Extreme Contact 235/40R-18 tires on the rims. So far I am very happy with the rim/tire combo. Although the Extreme Contact tires aren't as sticky as the stock Advans, they are still fairly impressive and track nicely in rain and snow. The car feels noticeably softer with these tires vs. the Advans and is less nervous, but doesn't turn in as fast. So basically a good winter tire setup that goes well with my detuned winter map, but I can't wait to get back to stickier tires in a month or so.
l8r)
Pic
Pic
Pic
p/n 53651 - 18x8 5-114.3 30BR MB Motorsports Weapon 789 $164 ea.
and I had them put Continental Extreme Contact 235/40R-18 tires on the rims. So far I am very happy with the rim/tire combo. Although the Extreme Contact tires aren't as sticky as the stock Advans, they are still fairly impressive and track nicely in rain and snow. The car feels noticeably softer with these tires vs. the Advans and is less nervous, but doesn't turn in as fast. So basically a good winter tire setup that goes well with my detuned winter map, but I can't wait to get back to stickier tires in a month or so.
l8r)
Pic
Pic
Pic
Last edited by Ludikraut; Jun 15, 2005 at 11:40 AM.
May 21, 2005, 10:11 PM
#42
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Did brakes and rotors today...
Ok, got a track day coming up at Gingerman and since my rotors are starting to wear (brakes are starting to shake slightly), I decided to get all new rotors and a set of Hawk HPS pads.
The rotors are from Rotorpros ... see the groupbuy here. Got all 4 rotors in red (well, sorta red), slotted and drilled (although I only wanted slotted
). Anyways, they were a steal at $300 delivered and I'm very curious to see how they hold up on the track.
So far the job has gone very smoothly. It basically took me one afternoon (maybe six hours or so). Now that includes time spent looking things up (which way do slotted rotors face, jack points, etc.), and learning a bunch of things about how the Evo's brakes are setup. I'm pretty confident that I could cut that time in half, if not to under 1 hour with some practice. However, since I did have all day, I chose to move at a leisurely pace and also chose to clean and inspect each brake component as I was working on it.
I will be flushing the whole system out tomorrow...
Many, many thanks go out to:
JEMM - for an excellent brake job write up
Joe250 - for a very informative Evo website: http://www.joe250.com/cars/evo/evo.htm
Rotorpros - for getting the rotors to me in time
AMS - for hooking me up with the HPS pads
l8r)
... here's some pics...
The rotors are from Rotorpros ... see the groupbuy here. Got all 4 rotors in red (well, sorta red), slotted and drilled (although I only wanted slotted
). Anyways, they were a steal at $300 delivered and I'm very curious to see how they hold up on the track.So far the job has gone very smoothly. It basically took me one afternoon (maybe six hours or so). Now that includes time spent looking things up (which way do slotted rotors face, jack points, etc.), and learning a bunch of things about how the Evo's brakes are setup. I'm pretty confident that I could cut that time in half, if not to under 1 hour with some practice. However, since I did have all day, I chose to move at a leisurely pace and also chose to clean and inspect each brake component as I was working on it.
I will be flushing the whole system out tomorrow...
Many, many thanks go out to:
JEMM - for an excellent brake job write up
Joe250 - for a very informative Evo website: http://www.joe250.com/cars/evo/evo.htm
Rotorpros - for getting the rotors to me in time
AMS - for hooking me up with the HPS pads
l8r)
... here's some pics...
May 21, 2005, 10:21 PM
#43
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brakejob tools...
Also, here's a snapshot of the tools used to change all the pads and rotors. The list goes as follows:
- piece of 2x4: used to push in front caliper pistons with caliper off the car
- rubber mallet
- hammer
- 3" clamp: used to push in caliper pistons
- philips screwdriver bit: used to initially tap the caliper pins loose
- 2 bolts (8mm, 1.25 pitch): used to break rotors free
- nail: used to push the caliper pins all the way out
- 19mm socket: front caliper bolts
- 17mm socket: rear caliper bolts
- anti-squeak lube (permatex) ... we'll see how this holds up soon
- hawk pads
- spray bottle (water w/ 1 tablespoon soft soap): used to dampen paper towels before cleaning off brake dust
- paper towels
- flash light
- small box: used to support caliper when off the rotor
l8r)
- piece of 2x4: used to push in front caliper pistons with caliper off the car
- rubber mallet
- hammer
- 3" clamp: used to push in caliper pistons
- philips screwdriver bit: used to initially tap the caliper pins loose
- 2 bolts (8mm, 1.25 pitch): used to break rotors free
- nail: used to push the caliper pins all the way out
- 19mm socket: front caliper bolts
- 17mm socket: rear caliper bolts
- anti-squeak lube (permatex) ... we'll see how this holds up soon
- hawk pads
- spray bottle (water w/ 1 tablespoon soft soap): used to dampen paper towels before cleaning off brake dust
- paper towels
- flash light
- small box: used to support caliper when off the rotor
l8r)
Jun 15, 2005, 11:37 AM
#44
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Rotorpro and HPS review
Alright, finally found some time to edit my pics and to post a review of my impressions of the Rotorpro / HPS rotor/pad combo. Here's how we stand after about 1 month of use, which included one track day (read my review here) at Gingerman (roughly 150 track miles):
The rotor(s):
+ no warping
+ no appreciable wear
- almost all of the paint burned off
The pad(s):
+ about the same as stock
- not good enough for the track (although I kinda knew that going in)
I am very impressed with the rotors so far. My only complaints aren't performance related at all. Complaint number one has to do with the fact that the paint burned completely off during the track sessions. Complaint number two has to do with the fact that the slot/dimples combination on the rotor make a buzzing noise when I'm driving down the street. I initially had the rotors installed, with the slots facing forward. Last weekend I changed them to have the slots facing backwards, hoping that it would eliminate the buzzing noise ... it didn't. So the final word on which way to install the rotors: it doesn't matter, since the vanes inside the rotor are not directional (unlike the stoptechs for example). The pads I'm a little less impressed with. They are fine for the street (IMO equal to stock pads), but fade rather badly on the track.
My recommendation?
Definitely get the rotors ... but ... get them slotted only and do not get them painted at all. At ~$300 for all 4 rotors and ~$160 for both fronts, these are a steal.
---
If you're going to track the car, don't get the HPS pads.
l8r)
Front Passenger side pics below
The rotor(s):
+ no warping
+ no appreciable wear
- almost all of the paint burned off
The pad(s):
+ about the same as stock
- not good enough for the track (although I kinda knew that going in)
I am very impressed with the rotors so far. My only complaints aren't performance related at all. Complaint number one has to do with the fact that the paint burned completely off during the track sessions. Complaint number two has to do with the fact that the slot/dimples combination on the rotor make a buzzing noise when I'm driving down the street. I initially had the rotors installed, with the slots facing forward. Last weekend I changed them to have the slots facing backwards, hoping that it would eliminate the buzzing noise ... it didn't. So the final word on which way to install the rotors: it doesn't matter, since the vanes inside the rotor are not directional (unlike the stoptechs for example). The pads I'm a little less impressed with. They are fine for the street (IMO equal to stock pads), but fade rather badly on the track.
My recommendation?
Definitely get the rotors ... but ... get them slotted only and do not get them painted at all. At ~$300 for all 4 rotors and ~$160 for both fronts, these are a steal.
---
If you're going to track the car, don't get the HPS pads.
l8r)
Front Passenger side pics below
Last edited by Ludikraut; Jun 15, 2005 at 11:46 AM.