1. Slide the driver seat all the way back and look at the back of the clutch pedal (flash or drop light helps!).

Adjusting the clutch pedal is very easy. Simply loosen the lock nut from the bracket connecting the push rod to the back of the clutch pedal. With the lock nut loose, the rod can be turned to move the clutch pedal higher or lower. This will in turn increase or decrease the rod travel (and hydraulic movement) and dictate "where" in the pedal the clutch engages.

For the most part, the rod can simply be turned by hand. Wiggling the clutch pedal while turning the rod can make it easier, but there is a flattened location on the rod to use an 8mm wrench if turning it by hand is not possible.

To move the rod higher and increase travel (move engagement up), turn the rod clockwise. To reduce the travel (move engagement down), turn the rod counter-clockwise.

TECH TIP: If an aftermarket clutch is installed and there is trouble getting into gears or it won't go into gear at all, the clutch is likely not being fully disengaged when the pedal is in. To overcome this, adjust the pedal higher.




2. Once the pedal is close, a few test drives and shifts will allow it to be dialed in for your clutch and feel. Do not forget to tighten the lock nut on the rod down before driving!

TECH TIP: try to adjust the pedal and do test drives/shifts with the tranny and clutch warm. If the adjustment is too "close", it may be fine when cold and get notchy or not fully disengage once everything warms up and the clutch expands with heat.

 

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/e...utchadjust.htm

EVO Clutch Adjustment
Anytime the clutch is replaced, especially with an aftermarket clutch, you MUST readjust the pedal.

The main adjustment for the EVO clutch is the rod that extends from the pedal assembly into the clutch master cylinder on the firewall. To see it you need to slid the driver's seat all the way back and crawl into the pedal area. Follow the clutch pedal upwards and look for the gold clevis piece.



This is a photo that shows the rod in a short adjustment. Like this, you will be more likely to have shifting problems. The rod needs to be longer so that you get enough travel into the cutch master cylinder.



This photo shows a rod after adjustment. It is now longer.



To make the adjustment, use a 12mm wrench and loosen the lock nut. You will then be able to turn the rod by hand to get a little more travel and therefore release.







You need at least 1mm-3mm of free play (B) at the top of the pedal travel when all is done.If you have the rod adjusted too long, the throw out bearing may be under constant pressure and may even not allow the clutch to fully engage. You need to be sure that there is some free play at the top of the pedal travel.

If you run out of free play at the top of the pedal, you can get a little more upstroke out of it by raising the stop at the top of the pedal assembly. I had to move the fuse box out of the way slightly to gain access to the stop.



Here you can see a 14mm wrench loosening the lock nut. The stop is actually a switch. Loosen the 14mm nut and then you will be able to rotate the switch assembly counter clockwise to get more travel out of the pedal.

 

nice write up I asked dealer to do this and they said that you cant adjust it.

 

great post, took me seconds to do

 

Very Nice write up. It is just what I was looking for. The pictures are great by the way too.

 

I know many ppl have had grinding issues w/their tranny and simply changing to better fluids or raisng their clutch pedal some solved the problem. Well, i had the infamous 3rd gear grind, adjusted my clutch pedal up some and still grinded, I then swapped out the Diaqueen fluid & replaced it with BG Synchroshift II and still had the same problem for months. I was very frustrated being that my car was already modified & heard horror stories of ppl trying to take their cars back to Mitsu to fix the problem and just getting shut down. So the other day i went out to my car and for some reason decided to adjust my clutch pedal INWARD instead of outward like most posts suggest. I adjusted the nut in pretty good, with very little travel distance of the rod and gave it a test drive for about 15 min. shifting into each gear all at different rpms and i couldn't belive it. THE GRINDING WAS COMPLETELY GONE!!! Has been perfect for days now w/no issues other than getting use to the new shorter travel clutch feel. So if you have the same issue adjusting the pedal inward may solve the issue rather than adjusting it outward like in my case. Hope this can help others out.

 

Again, good write up exactly what I was looking for. Just got my Evo, almost upset by low much a had to let out of the pedal before it engaged. Thanks to this post, I was able to sleep that night <-----------yes, kinda gay, I know.

 

Excellent post, just what I was looking for.
Respect.

 

I just adjusted the clutch pedal and it does feel much better. Can someone look at my shot here and just let me know if it looks alright. I tighten the lock nut as much as I could and tried to match the length from the how-to thread picture.



This is a side by side comparison of mine and the pic from evom.

 

the length that it needs to be adjusted to is different for everyone depending on what kind of clutch/flywheel you have, how much wear they have, etc. you should do the adjustment at normal operating temp with all four wheels off the ground, adjust it until it starts to spin the wheels with the pedal around 3" off the floor. that is the proper way to do it given by TRE to make sure you are getting full engagement/disengagement.

 

^^why do you have to have all 4 wheels off the ground? I don't see how that has anything to do with adjusting the clutch pedal.

 

appreciate the post. A couple of tweaks and it feels real smooth now

 

so you can start it, let the clutch out, and see where it is when the wheels start spinning. the point at which they start to move is very different on the ground with a load and in the air without any load except the weight of the wheel. this is how TRE says to do it on their site. since they rebuild trannies for a living and i don't, that's what i do and i've never had a problem.

 

I think your point is deffenitely valid but it might just be too much work to do it TRE's way without a lift I think. I guess as long as it is going thru the gears nicely it should be ok for me. Could you please provide me a link to TRE's site, I really want to read the details.

Thx

 

here you go. i did mine on jackstands. not any harder than changing driveline fluids without a lift since it needs to be level. takes about 5 minutes longer than using a lift, not very hard at all IMO. but, if you want it done properly...
http://www.teamrip.com/clutch%20adjustment.html