INSTALL: oil pressure and temperature senders
INSTALL: oil pressure and temperature senders
http://bolsen.homeip.net/oilgauge.htm
Oil Pressure and Temp senders
1. Loosen passenger side lug nuts.
2. Jack up front end (don't be a bum, put it on stands) and remove the passenger side tire.
3. Inside the wheel well, you'll see a cover that can be removed via some snaps. Remove this cover so you can clearly see the oil filter.
4. Remove the oil filter.
5. Take a look at the oil filter housing. You will notice (2) screws going into the housing. Both these screws need to come out. Just so you know, they are in there tight! I got a pict of one of them.


6. On the bung to the left of the filter (the one NOT above the filter) insert the first 3/8" to 1/8" reducer. Don't forget your teflon tape! Once you get that screwed in nice and snug, install your right angle fitting. (I had a left over "T" fitting that I used, that's why you see it there.)
7. Attach your oil pressure sender to the right angle fitting. Align it as in the picture.

8. Install the other 1/2" to 1/8" reducer in the other bung above the filter. (Tip: If you screw in the temp sender prior to the reducer first, then install the fitting into the bung, you'll save yourself some effort.)
9. Screw in your temp sender, if you haven't already.

10. Your oil housing should look like this.


11. Run your wires from the senders through the firewall to your gauges. There is a hole in the firewall on the passenger side of the car. (Tip: prior to running your wires, measure out a good length and cut the wires. Tape the ends of the wires together with electrical tape. Now take a drill and twist the wires together. This will keep your wires looking nice and clean. Just make sure to label them first.)
11. Attach your wires to your appropriate gauges.
12. If you are putting the gauges in the center console, splice ignition and dimmer from the cig lighter. Red is ignition, green/white is dimmer. Ground to the chasis.
13. Put your filter back on and reassemble the wheel well panel.
14. Start the car and check for leaks. If all is well, put the tire back on and check your oil for proper level.
Oil Pressure and Temp senders
1. Loosen passenger side lug nuts.
2. Jack up front end (don't be a bum, put it on stands) and remove the passenger side tire.
3. Inside the wheel well, you'll see a cover that can be removed via some snaps. Remove this cover so you can clearly see the oil filter.
4. Remove the oil filter.
5. Take a look at the oil filter housing. You will notice (2) screws going into the housing. Both these screws need to come out. Just so you know, they are in there tight! I got a pict of one of them.
6. On the bung to the left of the filter (the one NOT above the filter) insert the first 3/8" to 1/8" reducer. Don't forget your teflon tape! Once you get that screwed in nice and snug, install your right angle fitting. (I had a left over "T" fitting that I used, that's why you see it there.)
7. Attach your oil pressure sender to the right angle fitting. Align it as in the picture.
8. Install the other 1/2" to 1/8" reducer in the other bung above the filter. (Tip: If you screw in the temp sender prior to the reducer first, then install the fitting into the bung, you'll save yourself some effort.)
9. Screw in your temp sender, if you haven't already.
10. Your oil housing should look like this.
11. Run your wires from the senders through the firewall to your gauges. There is a hole in the firewall on the passenger side of the car. (Tip: prior to running your wires, measure out a good length and cut the wires. Tape the ends of the wires together with electrical tape. Now take a drill and twist the wires together. This will keep your wires looking nice and clean. Just make sure to label them first.)
11. Attach your wires to your appropriate gauges.
12. If you are putting the gauges in the center console, splice ignition and dimmer from the cig lighter. Red is ignition, green/white is dimmer. Ground to the chasis.
13. Put your filter back on and reassemble the wheel well panel.
14. Start the car and check for leaks. If all is well, put the tire back on and check your oil for proper level.
MOST need a metric adapter. Looks like he used NPT fittings and just taped the heck out of it and turned it in to cross the threads enough that it wouldn't leak. Either way works.
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Be warned: Those plugs are SUPER tight, broke a wrachet while unscrewing them.
One more warning, 45 degree adapter from 42 Draft Designs is made out of copper, be very carefull not to put too much pressure on it or you will bend it
One more warning, 45 degree adapter from 42 Draft Designs is made out of copper, be very carefull not to put too much pressure on it or you will bend it
I am having a problem with my oil pressure gauge. The gauge reads find until I
Accelerate. The gauge is all over the place. Lift off the gas pedal and it gives you a good reading. On the highway keep the car at a steady speed it's okay. get on it over 3000 rpm it's al over the place lift and I get a steady reading.I change the sending unit but still having the problem.
Help
Accelerate. The gauge is all over the place. Lift off the gas pedal and it gives you a good reading. On the highway keep the car at a steady speed it's okay. get on it over 3000 rpm it's al over the place lift and I get a steady reading.I change the sending unit but still having the problem.
Help
I am having a problem with my oil pressure gauge. The gauge reads find until I
Accelerate. The gauge is all over the place. Lift off the gas pedal and it gives you a good reading. On the highway keep the car at a steady speed it's okay. get on it over 3000 rpm it's al over the place lift and I get a steady reading.I change the sending unit but still having the problem.
Help
Accelerate. The gauge is all over the place. Lift off the gas pedal and it gives you a good reading. On the highway keep the car at a steady speed it's okay. get on it over 3000 rpm it's al over the place lift and I get a steady reading.I change the sending unit but still having the problem.
Help
Send it back, they'll send you a new one. I have the SW Oil Press., Oil Temp and Boost. There not the best, but for the money, they do the job.
And on those plugs in the Oil Housing. I would recommend a breaker bar and not a Ratchet Wrench....just asking for a hurting.
And on those plugs in the Oil Housing. I would recommend a breaker bar and not a Ratchet Wrench....just asking for a hurting.



