Stealth Airbox Mod
k, that didn't work so well due to the positioning of the filter caused by the buschur mas pipe, not dissing buschur in the slightest, the man knows the respect I have for him, just that this is a stealth trick that will probably only be useful to those still using the accordian style factory mas pipe, I'm just going to swing by the dealership and pick up some of those plastic screw things that hold the actual inlet piece to the frame of the car and probably just use that piece in hopes of ramming some cooler air in the general direction of my intake, good luck to all and even though it didn't work in my situatio, thanks for the tip MalibuJak.
Late,
mitsuorder
Late,
mitsuorder
Thanks.. I was wondering how it would work out.. However you can probably still use the snorkle and the top of the filter box without the housing if you can find a way to secure it without coming loose, you can get the same net effect. Probably inexpensive aluminum strapping for a simple bracket to hold it in place over the filter.
Hey MalibuJack, sorry but I'm not familiar with this aluminium strapping stuff, could you elaborate? Where could I pick some up? I wonder where and how I would mount it with this stuff. Thanks in advance, and I'm open to suggestions from anyone on how I might mount these two pieces, just can't have them hanging loose.
Its metal stock.. But the easiest place to find it is a Home Depot.. I think they use it for plumbing and framing.. Its about 1" wide, by about 6 foot long, and 1/8" thick (more or less)
Ok.. Its a buschur filter assembly (I pretty much only use their products on my car) The RMR assembly and the K&N FIPK assemblies are nearly identical, however I like the filter base on the Buschur product the best because its all one piece which makes it smaller even though the elements for all three are the same. To get the K&N and the RMR to fit, you probably would remove the stock Airbox bracket, which you need in order to retain the stealth airbox. The Buschur air filter also fits with the original bracket in place which is important.
I'd really like Bushur to make a MAS pipe replacement (to replace the accordian) which is the same size and location as the stock pipe to retain the stealth box. (hint hint Dave..
)
I'd really like Bushur to make a MAS pipe replacement (to replace the accordian) which is the same size and location as the stock pipe to retain the stealth box. (hint hint Dave..
)
Looks like I'll have to dump my stealth mod.. I got all the buschur components all the way up to stage 4... the upper intercooler pipe and battery gives away that the car's not stock...
MalibuJack, thanks for posting this! This thread is old, but still relevant so I'm bumping it.

Do you know if an aftermarket intake arm and filter will fit in your modded airbox? I was considering making this modification and adding a Perrin intake arm/filter.

My biggest goal with this mod is stealth and not so much performance.
Do you know if an aftermarket intake arm and filter will fit in your modded airbox? I was considering making this modification and adding a Perrin intake arm/filter.

My biggest goal with this mod is stealth and not so much performance.
I have the ARC intake box. I think its about as close as you are going to get to this without butchering the stock box. Before installing I logged stock intake temps and then post ARC intake temps.
The stock box always picked up external ambient temp. Even at dead stop it would suck in 30* air from outside. The ARC intake temps are higher when stopped. When not even pounding the car and stopped at a red light I see temps of 80* in the winter. However those temps drop back down once moving again.
If you want more airflow than the stock sealed box then I suggest you rid yourself of the lid all together. Either run a shielded conical or some kind of open box like the ARC unit. The good scoops plenty of cold air when moving. The snorkle is pretty much useless once you break the seal of the stock box. Also recommended is removing the weather stripping from that area of the hood.
The stock box always picked up external ambient temp. Even at dead stop it would suck in 30* air from outside. The ARC intake temps are higher when stopped. When not even pounding the car and stopped at a red light I see temps of 80* in the winter. However those temps drop back down once moving again.
If you want more airflow than the stock sealed box then I suggest you rid yourself of the lid all together. Either run a shielded conical or some kind of open box like the ARC unit. The good scoops plenty of cold air when moving. The snorkle is pretty much useless once you break the seal of the stock box. Also recommended is removing the weather stripping from that area of the hood.
I plan on getting a used airbox just for that purpose.
What I'm trying to find out is which of these will net the most gains, all the while remaining as stock in appearance as possible.
A. Stock intake arm + filter (Unmodified airbox)
B. Aftermarket intake arm + filter (Modified airbox)
C. Stock. Period.
What I'm trying to find out is which of these will net the most gains, all the while remaining as stock in appearance as possible.
A. Stock intake arm + filter (Unmodified airbox)
B. Aftermarket intake arm + filter (Modified airbox)
C. Stock. Period.
I don't think you'll see any real benefit from moving away from stock unless you have 40LBS of airflow or more.
Dyno numbers really don't mean jack .... you need to determine if there are before and after gains at the track. I was trapping 116 with stock turbo and airbox. After the ARC I went back and trapped the same thing. I suspect if I had an FP Red I'd probably see gains with the ARC but the snorkle and stock intake do no limit the stock turbo at least in the real world. You may hear dyno queens or resellers tell you differently but without an improved trap speed their dyno numbers are just a theory.
Dyno numbers really don't mean jack .... you need to determine if there are before and after gains at the track. I was trapping 116 with stock turbo and airbox. After the ARC I went back and trapped the same thing. I suspect if I had an FP Red I'd probably see gains with the ARC but the snorkle and stock intake do no limit the stock turbo at least in the real world. You may hear dyno queens or resellers tell you differently but without an improved trap speed their dyno numbers are just a theory.
Dyno numbers really don't mean jack .... you need to determine if there are before and after gains at the track. I was trapping 116 with stock turbo and airbox. After the ARC I went back and trapped the same thing. I suspect if I had an FP Red I'd probably see gains with the ARC but the snorkle and stock intake do no limit the stock turbo at least in the real world. You may hear dyno queens or resellers tell you differently but without an improved trap speed their dyno numbers are just a theory.
So freeing up the restrictive stock intake system is not beneficial or are you saying that it's not restrictive?
When you say track do you mean HPDE or the drag strip?
Some say the stock turbo can flow 42LBS. You should log airflow with EVOScan to see what you are achieving.
I'm saying on a dyno you can toss on a conical filter and see gains up top. Thats because the car isn't moving and the hood is open. Those gains are fictional in the real world as the stock intake uses a high pressure source for cold air where an open filter would be sucking in hotter air.
I'm saying on a dyno you can toss on a conical filter and see gains up top. Thats because the car isn't moving and the hood is open. Those gains are fictional in the real world as the stock intake uses a high pressure source for cold air where an open filter would be sucking in hotter air.







