chmodlf

iTrader: (19)

After just completing my install, here are a couple of thoughts.

Definitely lay out the rear part of the belts to get the orientation right. That way you bend the metal mounts once! I oriented mine so that the bend is on the roof side of the bolt. Hopefully the belt is least obstructed by the seat this way.

Releasing the console via the two screws in the storage area is the way to go. Less swearing and knuckle busting.

Hooligan317

not to bring this back from the dead... but to bring it back from the dead haha I just installed these in my MR yesterday and a big thanks to this how-to as it went very easily and I'm loving these harnesses!

WarmPepsi

iTrader: (35)

haha nice, but i got a question, and maybe i'm just totally missing it. how the hell do you get the two apart to get it through the headrest? i have these in my rsx, and it's a cake to throw it through the bigger hole, but i don't see how

"you simply need to disconnect the inside should belt from the lap belt so that the shoulder belts can be taken out of the seat back. "

Kyperion

iTrader: (2)

To get the harness out of the seat back you only have to disconnect one side. I recommend the shoulder harness closest to the concole, as this will allow you to more easily store the harnesses under the seat.

The black plastic piece piece (Red arrow) is part of the tightening mechanism, that holds the belts firm in place. This is the piece you have to remove to disconnect a should belt from the lap belts.




That piece is held on with two tabs (blue arrows) that fit into the small recessed areas of the metal buckle half. Apply presssure to slide the black plastic piece in the deirection of the green arrows ( I usually do one side at a time, as you have to push pretty hard to ge the tab to release).



Once you have both sides released, you can slide the metal bar (Yellow Arrow) out of the side of the piece, and you are good to go. I strongly reccommend putting all the pieces (sans belt fo course) back together, pushing until the tabs click into place. This will keep you from losing that metal bar, as you are pretty much screwed without that piece.


HOpe that helps clear that up.

WarmPepsi

iTrader: (35)

AHHHHHHHHHHH, i thought you meant the lower one.

damn fine job. If i ever meet you, i owe ya a drink, or some food or somethin

Badog

iTrader: (4)

Great write-up, i just did mine tonight (these were taken out of my old car) and the install was a breeze, especially after taking the center console out.

bdking57

iTrader: (7)

Guys.. I just bought the sparco harness bar and two new scrothe designed sparco harnesses.. one 5 point and one 4 point and camera mount. I got the snap on kit.. was there anything else i was supposed to get?

Kronik

iTrader: (3)

I must say, these are well worth the money! These are very comfortable harnesses. Man I can just concentrate on my driving instead of how to pin myself back into the seat while in autox

Badog

iTrader: (4)

Yep, i've been using them for a few years now, fairly inexpensive and easy install and they work great!

sir lurks alot

iTrader: (2)

I was looking through the documentations and don't see where an EVO is listed as an approved application. I assume this is because the angle of mounting is too steep.

Badog

iTrader: (4)

For open track days, driving schools, autox and drag racing it is fine, but no you're right, it's too much of an angle for competition racing.

WarmPepsi

iTrader: (35)

competition requires a cage anyways

Tim, shoot me an email or a call, i'm debating turbos.

Badog

iTrader: (4)

Yea that's true. And if you are gonna go competition, the cars gonna be gutted so yea, I guess it depends on what you wanna do

hokiruu

iTrader: (19)

Another necro revival:
I just installed these tonight. I DID NOT need to pull out any the the belt from the receiver/console side shoulder belt adjustment/lock in order to fit it through the stock evo 8 seat hole. It DOES fit through the hole, and quite easily. I just had to gently pull one thing through at a time, and at one point had to fold it over the make it narrower, it took about he same time as the outside shoulder strap.

On another note: due to the fact that the inboard/tunnel/ receiver mounting tab is smaller in diameter than the tab for the factory seatbelt receiver, the factory mounting bolt has a "stepped/spaced neck" on it that is too wide for the Shroth mounting tabs hole. the result was a secure Schroth mounting tab, but the inboard/tunnel receiver is a bit looser than it was before, as the bolt does not quite go a far in. Has anyone else experienced this? It seems fine enough, as it had a little bit of play before ayway. I am going to switch it to the Schroth bolt, which should work fine.

Why did I try the factory bolt? Because it had a longer threaded section. The harness comes with threeshorter bolt and one longer one. the longer one would proaby be good to use on the door sill side, as that point has the most/longest hardware, but I had already used it for the also long rear middle belt point.

WarmPepsi

iTrader: (35)

yes, it'll slide through, but if you have the ralle-4 model ( going on memory here) it's got a clip back behind the seat, so you can unhook the shoulder belts from the rear mounting points, real quick ( and use your back seats ).



the reason to remove the piece from the shoulder clip, was to get it out of the way when not using it, if not, you're always going to lean back on the shoulder harnesses. Undo the one clip, and it slides back through, out and under the seat.