Well this is going to help me this weekend. they want freakin $1200 + the price of the clutch. i hope i have good luck.

 

well i had to install my clutch and the rest of it last night. i had done this before and it took (just for the install) about 10hrs at least with a few helpers too.

So i thought i read this sticky and BAM!!! did it in just over 4 hours!! amazing... all i did was read the service manual link and it was right on the money

oh yeah and i did it all by myself it was actually pretty enjoyable!! am bleeding the clutch tonight so will be hopefully taking it for a ride and then i'll be installing my new cams... cant wait!!!

really appreciate the help

 

4 hours! You even got me beat. Then again I typically do it by myself; no help - including lifting up the trans by myself.

 

yeah i did it all myself, lifting the g/box and xfer and all the rest of it... of course i used a jack to lift it and not my little arms

but remember this was not a removal and install i got someone else to rip it out cos its alot harder when you dont have a ball joint splitter or slide hammer..

so it was 4hours for the install only if i could do an out and in job in 4hours total i would be a XEN MASTER!!

the fastest i've seen complete turn around was my ace mechanic who did it in 5hours. i thought that was awesome.....

 

this is the best write up ever I'm going to do mine next week.

 

Thanks and good luck!

 

I just pulled my transmission (06 MR 6speed with ACD) so my experience on Evos is limited to this car. I have done many other clutch jobs, and this one was by far the biggest pain in the **** with all the little nuances.

Here are two things that will help someone.

There is a small 10mm headed bolt above the starter that holds the engine dust shield to the transmission. I didn't see this and it left me hanging (or the transmission hanging) for a few hours prying on the case for ages trying to get them to separated. once I removed that little devil bolt (pop) they came apart.

Also, I had the same problem with the TOB that everyone else did. I pryed on it for an hour curious if I was in the right spot till I got the revelation to rotate the engine 180 degrees, pop the screwdriver in there, and then "pop" it came right out.

The tranny is not too heavy. If you have the muscle to break all these bolts loose, you can easily manage to lower the tranny. I suggest a jack at the seem and someone just guiding it down.

Thanks for your help Joe, you made this job self-do-able.

 

That little 10mm bolt, yeah I forgot that one in the writeup. I still have some of the TOBs I do on the clutch jobs get stuck. Just have to try not to lose patience.

Good Job!

 

WOW taking this trans out sucks. Wish I had a slap hammer now. been prying on this transfer case for about an hour just waiting for it to fly off and take me out while I try to stop it from hitting the floor. Well Im going to get drunk now. It`s been my birthday for just over an hour an this clutch swap is far less then a present.

Note to self: Modded Evo X and stock clutch don`t work together for long. But its fun.

 

Here's my install procedure for an Evo IX MR. It's not too much different, but there are some small things like removing the shifter linkage and the active center differential line. Feel free to PM me with questions. Be sure to use the service manual on the first page of this thread if you need pictures. I can't guarantee the accuracy of my instructions, so use them at your own risk.

-Luke

Evolution IX MR Clutch & Flywheel Removal and Installation

Tools Required:
• Standard Sockets: 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 1 ¼”
• Deep Well Sockets: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
• 3/¬8” Drive Ratchet Wrench
• ½” Drive Ratchet Wrench
• Ratchet Wrench Extensions: 3” and 6” for both drive sizes
• Combination Wrenches: 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
• Ratchet Wrench: 17mm
• Crescent Wrench
• 2’ Breaker Bar
• Cross Point and Standard Screwdrivers
• 2 Ton+ Floor Jack
• 2 Jack Stands
• Pry Bar
• Large Zip Ties
• Oil Catch Pan
• Pliers
• ½” Drive Torque Wrench

Recommended Tools:
• Tie-rod End Separator
• Large Hammer
• 2x4” Board (several 4” pieces to cushion jack and a 4 foot section for ratchet straps)
• 2 Ratchet Straps
• ½” Drive Pneumatic Impact Wrench
• Impact Sockets: 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
• Second 2 Ton+ Floor Jack

Transmission Removal:
1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove air box and intake pipe (Be sure to cover the intake hoses with something to prevent debris from getting in. Tinfoil works well)
3. Remove battery and battery box
4. Disconnect two shifter cables from shift linkage and remove the cable brackets from the transmission
5. Remove slave cylinder from transmission but do not disconnect the hydraulic line from the slave cylinder. Place the slave cylinder somewhere out of the way in the engine compartment
6. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels
7. Jack up the car and secure it in place with the jack stands
8. Remove the wheels
9. Remove the plastic under tray
10. Remove the plastic wheel well insert in the driver’s side wheel well that covers the back of the transmission
11. Remove the shift linkage from the transmission (there are 5 bolts holding the flange to the transmission and a lock bolt on the back of the transmission that can be accessed through the driver’s side wheel well directly below the linkage. You may need to pry up the flange from the transmission with a screw driver. Be sure to wrap the shift linkage in a clean rag and plug the hole in the transmission to keep debris out.)
12. Remove the two tie bars (five 14mm bolts)
13. Remove the down pipe (two 14mm bolts turbo side, two 17mm bolts catalytic side, and two rubber hangar bolts)
14. Use a zip tie to secure the catalytic converter to the drive line
15. Remove the center member that runs front to back, the one with the tow ring on it (two 19mm bolts front, one 19mm bolt back, one 14mm bolt through the transmission mount)
16. Disconnect the starter wires (the starter may need to come out before the top wire can be reached. Be sure to press the button on the side of the plastic connector to remove the top wire)
17. Remove the starter from the transmission (one 14mm bolt engine side and one 14mm bolt transmission side)
18. Remove the black inspection cover plate from the bottom of the bell housing (two 14mm bolts bottom and two 10mm bolts top)
19. Drain the transmission
20. Remove the cotter pins holding the castle nuts to the axles and wheel bearings
21. Use an approved wheel stop or have someone firmly apply the breaks while you remove the castle nuts with the 1 ¼” socket
22. Disconnect the ABS sensor lines from the two mounting clips in each wheel well (do not disconnect from the wheel hub)
23. Disconnect the break hydraulic line from the mounting clip in each wheel well (use a pair of pliers to grab the small metal clip and pound out the clip with a hammer. The line can them be pushed down to remove it from the mounting clip)
24. On the driver’s side remove the strut mount from the wheel hub (two 19mm bolts. Be sure to support the wheel hub with something to keep the ABS and break lines from being damaged)
25. Remove the driver’s side axle from the wheel hub (may require a little hammering on the end of the axle to break it free of the hub. Be sure to put the castle nut on backwards to prevent damaging any of the threads on the axle)
26. Remove the driver’s side axle from the transmission by prying between the green CV joint and the transmission (This takes a lot of effort, be patient. The tie-rod end separator will help to pry this out along with a hammer used as a pillow block
27. Reattach the wheel hub to the strut mount
28. Repeat 24 – 27 for the passenger side axle
29. Remove the output shafts from the transfer case (I used the 1 ¼” socket fitted over the end of the output shaft, an M8x35mm bolt, and a large washer to help here. Once the socket and bolt are in the shaft, wedge the tie-rod separator between the washer and socket. Use a large hammer and pound on the back side of the tie-rod separator to push out the output shaft. Do this for both sides and wrap the shafts in a clean cloth to prevent them from getting dirty)
30. Remove the ACD line from the top of the transfer case (This line is on the top-back of the transfer case. Use a crescent wrench and be ready with a rag to catch the oil that leaks out. It is recommended to replace the ACD oil, but it is possible to pinch this line with vice grips to retain the oil.)
31. Remove the transfer case from the transmission (three 17mm bolts on bottom and three 17mm bolts on top. All bolts are accessed from under the car. One bolt is directly behind the ACD line that you just removed. Once the bolts are out you can pry the transfer case away from the transmission. Push it away from the transmission by lifting on the drive shaft.)
32. Remove the rear transmission mount from under the hood. (There are two 17mm bolts that hold the silver u-channel to the black mount on the transmission. Remove the top bolt and then use the 17mm ratchet wrench to remove the bottom bolt. Do not remove the u-channel from the rest of the chassis mount.)
33. Remove the rest of the wiring from the top of the transmission (You will need to remove the entire speed sensor from the transmission to access one of the transmission bolts. This sensor is on the top-back of the transmission under where the shifter cables went. Be sure to plug the hole with a rag to prevent debris from getting in the transmission.)
34. Remove the transmission bolts (Three 14mm bolts top and two 14mm bolts bottom)
35. Use a jack and support the engine under the oil pan (Be sure to use a piece of 2x4” to prevent damaging the oil pan)
36. Remove the driver’s side mount from the car and transmission (One long 14mm bolt through the mount and four 17mm nuts. You may need to jack up the engine to remove the long bolt and let the engine down to have enough clearance to remove the mount. Do not let the engine down too far to prevent damaging the engine pulleys.)
37. Place the long 2x4 from the strut tower bar to the car frame just to the right of the radiator and use the two ratchet straps to secure the transmission around the main body of it and the transfer case side.
38. Separate the throw out bearing from the pressure plate (To do this you’ll need to remove the small rubber plug in the bottom of the transmission. Pull the release fork all the way to the driver’s side of the car and use a screw driver to pry the throw out bearing out of the pressure plate.)
39. Remove the transmission from the car (Slowly lower the ratchet straps and jack under the engine while prying the transmission away from the engine block. You may need a second jack or jack stand to hold the transmission while readjusting your ratchet straps. It is also helpful to raise the transfer case side of the transmission at first.)

Pressure Plate & Clutch Removal:
1. Remove the pressure plate from the flywheel (six 12mm bolts. If you plan to reuse the pressure plate or flywheel you should remove these in a “star” pattern, one side of the pressure plate then the other. This removes excess strain from the pressure plate springs. Be sure to inspect the surface for any discoloration, gouges, or abnormal wear.)
2. The clutch will fall out when the pressure plate is removed

Flywheel Removal:
1. Remove the flywheel from the engine crankshaft (seven 17mm bolts. Remove the seven bolts in a “star” pattern to reduce excess strain on the flywheel and crankshaft. If you plan to reuse the flywheel be sure to inspect it for discoloration, gouging, or abnormal wear.)

Flywheel Installation:
1. Install the flywheel onto the crankshaft (seven 17mm bolts. Be sure to use high temperature locktite on the threads of the bolts and install them in a “star” pattern to reduce warping of the flywheel or crankshaft. Bolts should be torqued to 50 ft * lbs and then re-torqued to 98 ft * lbs)

Pressure Plate & Clutch Installation
1. Clean the flywheel with a no-residue solvent (non-chlorinated brake cleaner works well)
2. Clean the pressure plate with no-residue solvent
3. Install the clutch and pressure plate onto the flywheel (Use the clutch alignment tool to hold the clutch and pressure plate together while you place both onto the flywheel. Center the alignment tool in the pressure plate. Install the six 12mm bolts using high temperature locktite on the threads; bolt pattern is ‘bolt – dowel pin – bolt.’ Torque bolts to 13 ft * lbs in a “star” pattern.)

Transmission Installation:
1. Install the transmission (Use the 2x4 and ratchet straps to lift the transmission into the car. The transfer case side of the transmission will need to be lifted in first and then rotated into place. Adjust the ratchet straps and jack under the engine to align the input shaft to the clutch and engine. Be sure the transmission is in neutral and push the transmission into place…be patient. Be careful when pushing the input shaft through the pressure plate. If you are too aggressive you will knock the snap ring on the back side of the pressure plate out of place. If you loose the snap ring you will need to take the pressure plate off and reinstall it.)
2. Install five 14mm bolts into transmission/engine block (three on top and two below)
3. Pull the release fork lever to engage the throw out bearing to the snap ring in the pressure plate. If the release fork lever won’t stay toward the driver’s side of the car you need to take the transmission and pressure plate out to reinstall the snap ring to the back of the pressure plate.
4. While the transmission is lowered install the shift linkage (five 10mm bolts in flange and one 14mm bolt on the back side of the transmission just below the shift linkage)
5. While the transmission is lowered install the driver’s side transmission mount (four 17mm nuts on the transmission and one 14mm bolt through the mount)
6. Install the rear transmission mount (two 17mm bolts. Install the bottom bolt first with the ratchet wrench and then the top one)
7. Install the transfer case (six 17mm bolts)
8. Install the ACD hydraulic line (be sure to clean the surface on the transfer case first)
9. Install the transfer case output shafts (Just slide them into the transfer case as far as possible by hand. The longer shaft goes into the driver’s side)
10. Install the front axles (Remove the wheel hub from the strut mount and tilt the wheel hub out of the way. Push the axles on by hand as far as possible then use a large hammer to tap them on until the silver cup on the back of the green CV joint meets the transfer case. Be sure to place the castle nut on the axle backwards to prevent damaging the threads on the axle.)
11. Install the axles into the wheel hub
12. Reattach the wheel hub to the strut mount (The top bolt in the strut mount has a small shoulder just below the head. Be sure to install this bolt in the top and turn until the shoulder seats into the strut mount. Use a jack or jack stand under the control arm to prevent damage to the steering and suspension.)
13. Clean the brake rotors with a no-residue solvent (non-chlorinated break cleaner works well)
14. Torque the castle nuts to 168 ft*lbs (Use an approved wheel stop or have someone firmly apply the breaks. Be sure to support under the control arm with a jack or jack stand.)
15. Install the down pipe (two 14mm bolts turbo side, two 17mm bolts catalytic side, and two rubber supports.)
16. Install the center member with the tow ring (two 19mm bolts front, one 19mm bolt rear, and one 14mm bolt through the transmission mount)
17. Install the two link bars (five 14mm bolts)
18. Install the black inspection cover plate(two 14mm bolts bottom and two 10mm bolts top)
19. Install the starter motor and wires (one 14mm bolt engine side and one 14mm bolt transmission side. Be sure the black cover on the large starter wire covers the connection.)
20. Install the wiring, speed sensor, and shifter cables on the top of the transmission
21. Refill the transmission oil (Be sure to use Diaqueen 75W85 GL-4 oil or Castrol SynTorque. It should take about 1.5 quarts. I have not tried any other oils and only Diaqueen GL-4 is recommended by the manufacturer. Use of any other oil is at your own risk.)
22. Install the plastic driver’s side wheel well cover
23. Install the plastic under tray (If you are replacing the ACD oil do this step last. If you broke any of the plastic fasteners you can purchase them at Lowes…I was surprised too!)
24. Install the air cleaner box
25. Install the battery box
26. Install the intake pipe (Be sure that the silver clips for the air cleaner box are up so they don’t get trapped under the intake pipe.)
27. Install the battery but do not connect the wires
28. Install the air filter and top of the air cleaner box
29. Reattach the battery wires
30. If you are replacing the ACD oil now is the time (Remove the black cover on the bleeder screw on the bottom of the transfer case. Loosen the bleeder screw and place an oil catch pan under it. Remove the cap from the fluid reservoir under the hood in the front driver’s side. Turn the ignition to the on position, but don’t start the car. Depress the gas peddle all the way and hold it until you hear a gurgling sound from the ACD reservoir. Top off the fluid reservoir and depress the gas peddle again until just before the reservoir gurgles. Keep topping off the reservoir until you’ve used about ¾ of a quart of fluid. Now tighten the bleeder screw and fill the reservoir to the marked full level. Be sure to use only ATF SPIII fluid. I was only able to find this fluid at the dealership.)
31. You’re finished…I suggest a good sleep and throw away the clothes you used.

****Edit: I forgot to mention not to use any liquid cleaner on your starter. You'll be tempted to use the brake cleaner to clean the carbon deposits off the starter motor, but don't do it. The solenoids on starter motors are very delicate when it comes to solvents.****

 

easy haha im a mechanic and this job is far from easy u just gotta be patient and mark and label everything..... having a shop with a lift and all air tools is real nice tho the 300ft matco air rachet worked real nice.....

good to see some people did this themselves.

good luck to all who attempts this lol

 

Does anyone know if there is ANY modifications you need to do at all when you install an EXEDY HD twin model MM022HD?

 

How much harder is it to replace the the flywheel, while im down there?

 

Just 7 bolts. Best time to do it!

 

Do you know off hand if the Exedy twin is any harder to install?