I purchased a Password JDM front plate relocator, Part # PWXLR-V02. I decided I wanted to have the option to remove it for track days, and/or pictures. Below are a few pictures, as well as a step-by-step if you decide you want to have the same setup, or something similar.

First, Tools list.

1: 10mm wrench. I have the greatneck adjustable head, but a regular will work just as well.
2: A set of High Speed Steel drill bits. The three I used were, 19/64, 9/32, and 11/32.
3: Cordless Drill
4: Set of Dental Picks, or anything of that nature
5: String
6: Tape
7: Knife or Cutters
8: Stubby Phillips
9: 10mm socket, extension, and wrench.






Step 1:

First, get your car up on a ramp, jack stands, or something else sturdy to make working under it easier while removing the front bumper. I followed the steps on this thread, through step 9.

http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php...3_10&tech_id=8

this one should work too...

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=67956


Step 2:

Once there, I went back and forth from pulling the bumper off, and putting it back on about 5 or 6 times to make sure everything was still going right, as well as figuring out just what kind of clearance issues I was dealing with. So, from here on out, until when stated otherwise, Every time I say "put the bumper back on, I'm just referring to putting it on the front, but not bolting anything back down yet.

With the help of my girlfriend, I held the front lisence plate on my front bumper, with bracket installed on the plate. Then we used a sharpie to mark the 2 spots on my bumper that needed to be drilled out. Once they were marked, and confirmed, I grabbed my drill and drilled out an 11/64 size hole in the bumper (slightly reamed out), then removed the drill bit from the drill, and used it to put some scratches on the front crash beam where the holes were lining up. This is still pretty rough on the outside, but that will get cleaned up later.



Step: 3:

Remove bumper again and set aside.

Step 4:

Drill out your front crash beam where your scratches were made. Note! Please don't try and drill too far close to the cabin side on the crash beam, if you look inside, you'll notice there's another layer of metal taking up roughly the back 1/3 of the crash beam. I drilled almost center, but just towards the front bumper to help keep the bolt head flat against the metal, inside the beam once tightened down. I started out with the 11/32 bit, going until it almost punctured all the way through, following up with the 9/32 bit, then used the 11/32 bit to finish it off, reaming it out just a bit wider, and cleaning up any left over metal.



Step 5:

Grab your two longer bolts provided in the kit, tape a piece of string and small amount of tape, and tape the string to the bolt. (Note: When taping the string on here, you want it to be just strong enough to be able to pull it down, and out of the bumper, but still easily enough to pull off. I used two small pieces of duct tape, and made a loop on the bolt). Toss the bolts into crash beam, making sure the strings won't get tangled up when you pull them down and out of the beam, through the bumper. Take the end of the string and thread it out of the hole you drilled in the crash beam, leaving around an inch or two of string hanging down.

Step 6:

While your bumper is set aside, go ahead and grab your 9/32 bit again, and drill out your bumper from inside. Ream it out just a bit, to allow for some adjustment once on.

Step 7: Optional

This is a GREAT time to go ahead and replace all of your hose clamps over to T-Bolt clamps, and/or install your intercooler piping. Verify ALL your hoses are tightened down property before moving on!

Step 8:

Put the front bumper back on.

Step 9:

Grab your dental pick, going up inside the hole you drilled into the bumper, twist it around in a circle a few times to loop your string around it, then pull it back out, and slowly pull the string down with it. If you drilled everything properly, the bolt should come right down, and poke out through the bumper, and allow you to now pull the string, and tape off. The bolts provided are long enough, but you will have to push up on your bumper a bit when putting the bracket on in order to get enough threads to catch on. As you can see from my finished pics, there's plenty of threads once tightened down all the way.









Step 10:

Go ahead and put all your bolts and clips back on, verifying that everything is tightened back down and correct. Pull the car off the ramps, and take it out for a spin.

PS: I will update this thread tomorrow after taking some better pics in the daytime.

 

or live in new jersey and buy one that already came with the license plate relocated ...

 

that doesn't sound like a half bad idea. ;-)

I know of a few other Cali guys who refused to install the stock bracket due to the huge holes you have to drill into the bumper. I didn't even want to drill the 2 I did, but I figured they were much better than the stock config.

 

good write up.

 

So, did cops notice you less? Was this a worthy investment? It'll at least help me get the plate from being mounted under my passenger floor mat, haha.

J

 

nice write-up

 

Good write up, BTW I got my JDM plate locater off of ebay for $5.99 shipped. Looks exactly like the password JDM plate bracket.

 

Nice write up.... We got those in stock if anyone else wants it!

 

great write-up! Looks good too.

 

great write up i never thought about relocating my front licence plate. I will have to do that soon.

 

nice write up!

 

nice write up! +1

 

+2