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Evo How Tos / InstallationsPost or link to your detailed how to / installation articles in here. If you have any questions regarding the how tos, feel free to post them in the Request sub-forum.
I get fuel in the rail not passed injectors now. I've tested injectors separately and they all work fine also tested fuel pump and all relays everything except ecu. My tuner said it can prob be ecu since that's what controls injectors? Any ideas?
Call me an idiot. But it's been 2 years since I did this. What injector Oring did you use? The one for the stock injector seems like it would be too small. I can't remember what I used in my car..
Update to original post, and additions to the install that will help people out with pics.
First thing to note: My fuel system is done. Full -6AN lines on Feed and Stock feed on return. Big FUel Rail. PTE1200's, AEM FPR, Stock Hanger Modded to the hilt, see pictures below, and quazy moto hard wire kit, where I could bypass harness connections. On mostly stock wiring, I see 8.05V constant at Idle, and 12.5V at high pressure, constant as well.
In the initial install, you must cut the factory wire connection on factory hanger and solder the pump in, and heatshrink. Also attach the Hanger check valve wire, the little black wire that is confused with low level. THat is a check valve to keep pressure in the line.
On the top of the pump, the OPP had to use a green oring under the stock rubber grommet. I have a better way. I trimmed a little more off of the outlet nozzle of the pump, as to get as much clearance into the hanger as I could so that the bottom clip that holds pump in, would be as tight and short as possible.
I trimmed the first barb, and then probably 2mm off the second barb. I then HEATSHRINKED the nozzle under the second barb 3 times to get it as fat as the Barb. If you do not do this, the factory grommet only seats against the only remaining barb, and can under good pressure, leak back into the tank. You will only notice this under wide open boost conditions, where AFR's lean out about .2 points. THis is suggesting your boost values are consistent on AFR's. My pump ran 3 days just fine the way the OPP installed his, and then I started to run lean again. NO change in tune, no change in leaks noticeable under the hood, constant fuel pressure at idle, etcetera. SO I pulled the pump today. Found nothing out of the ordinary, except when I pulled the pump out of the hanger, I noticed the factory grommet had play under the barb. I set about to modify it more.
On the OPPS install, the height distance of the nipple/nozzle you just trimmed, there are the wires that are sealed into the housing. ON top of that wire portion, lined up with the nozzle you will see a little rectangle, about the height of a 1mm or 2, about the width of 3mm, and length of 4. Its a little rectangle that rises towards the nozzle. Trim it with a razor knife to gain all clearance and be able to shove the pump in an extra 1mm or 2 into the hanger.
So heatshrink the nozzle under the barb, to make it as fat as the barb or thicken the cylinder neck of the nozzle. Then give it a little oil, and you will notice the factory grommet seats tighter and firmer around the nozzle, and will not compress under your finger pressure. You will also notice when you shove the pump into the hanger, it is much tighter and is very hard to twist the pump like it used to. Prior to pushing the newly modified grommet, grab a 3/4 inch worm clamp, and shove it on the factory plastic hanger, and you will notice it fits perfectly. THen shove the pump all the way in and get it in as tight as you can, and then tighten the worm gear slowly, watching the clamping force, so you don't crack the hanger plastic.
Also not, that the little black insertable unit that also has a barb on it, and is attached by a small wire, that is a supposedly a check valve. When you pull the little black unit, you have to retrieve the oring from with in. Notice the height of this little unit, and the thickness of the oring. You can actually double up the oring, stack two on top of each other, and reinsert into the hanger.
Then grab your low profile clamp and tighten it all up.
Here are pics of my unit:
Notice the worm clamp up inside around the plastic housing that the pump nozzle fits into. Remember to heatshrink the pump nozzle below the barb a couple of times, so the factory grommet is as thick as possible and tightly fits into the housing. Then tighten the 3/4 inch clamp down slowly and not to tight as to crack the hanger.
This black piece is supposedly a check valve unit that closes under pressure, I ma not sure of this, but the oring is there to keep pressure after car is off. I think it works as an electro magnet, and closes. Either way, this little unit is tall enough to fit 2 o rings onto when you reinstert. I did notice my rail holds better pressure now after the first mod and this mod were done.
Low Profile worm clamp. I used two ZipTies like the OPP did, and after 6 days of tuning and testing with multiple boost pulls, everything was intact. ZipTIes had not broken or stretched. However, keeping with holding as much pressure and to be robust as possible, use low pro worm clamp. THese buggers are not as easy as the opp said to find, but I found 1. If you can't find a low pro worm gear, then get a CV axle clamp, for they are low profile as well.
All together side view.
Ready to go to work.
Onto my quazy moto rewire. I kind of borrowed some thoughts from MFRED's rewire, as well as others. I do not have burnt ends, and I do not have overheating issues.
First, I wired a 8 Gauge ground soldered into the factory ground, right before it drops or plugs into the hanger. I tried the pump nuts that hold the hanger to the tank, and then tried a seat belt bolt. Seat belt bolt is the best ground to go. I also left the factory ground connected as well.
Second, I wired a 12G power wire, soldered into the white wire just before the plug into the hanger. I left white wire connected. I then followed the factory white wire(on USDM Versions) across the car to the passenger side rear door. Here you will find harness connector 1. THe white wire is crimped to a connector that disconnects from this location. THis is voltage and resistance drop one. I continued on running forward up the passenger side of the car, to the passenger front kick panel. Hear you will find connection 2. A wiring harness, that is disconnectable on both sides of the plastic terminal. This is voltage and resistance drop 2. Both of these connections drop a full Volt on low and high current modes. THe red wire is running from the pump to the other side of this connection behind the dash, as far as I could trace. Under the dash, the wire goes out to the fuel relay 3 and also over to the fuel relay one and two, and also to resistor pack by relay 3. SO I just bypassed the two harnesses as far as I could go, and then soldered it back in.
3rd. I ran an 8G ground behind the dash fuse panel that holds relay 1 and 2, and ran this ground straight to battery ground or primary ground point of battery under the hood. This increases voltage and current to the under dash fuse panel. It's ground is 18G wire, though 12V and 12 Amps of current run through it when it runs relay 1 and 2. Upgrading this ground is worth it too.
4th, In the under dash fuse panel, in slot 8, you will find a 7.5 amp fuse. THis is the high voltage side of the pump and is low from factory on amperage. I upgraded it to a 25 amp fuse, to handle all it can send to the relay 3, and then on to the pump.
These mods netted me an increase .75V at idle, and 1.3V at high pressure mode. Before at idle I was seeing 7.3V and now I am at 8.1V. I was at 11.2V at high pressure, and am now at 12.5V. The pump usually has 1 ohm of resistance, giving you a 1:1 ratio of voltage and current at the pump. THis should increase and strengthen the pump output, if you dont want to do a full rewire and do the full monty install like MFRED. I have a rewire hardwire kit I got with my pump, and will see down the road if I choose to go with it.
My build is in my signature, so you can see how my fueling works all together with all mods I have. Make the best choice for you.
These mods netted me an increase .75V at idle, and 1.3V at high pressure mode. Before at idle I was seeing 7.3V and now I am at 8.1V. I was at 11.2V at high pressure, and am now at 12.5V.
This represents an improvement over the base wiring, but thing to keep in mind is that it still comes up ~20% short of the rated flow capacity for this pump, as published specs expect the pump to see a sustained 13.5V under load. So while maintaining the factory wiring configuration makes it possible to retain the tiny OE fuel return line and basic wiring scheme, the tradeoff is the pump will not receive sufficient voltage to retain its full rated output.
If the setup involves a smaller turbo and the pump provides plenty of headroom for the expected power level, this is fine. In situations where pump capacity (particularly on E85) is the limiting factor of the entire setup, this route isn't the best one. In either situation however, I strongly advise making certain to verify that pressure at the rail indeed tracks at 1:1 fuel pressure to boost pressure at full power and under load.
This represents an improvement over the base wiring, but thing to keep in mind is that it still comes up ~20% short of the rated flow capacity for this pump, as published specs expect the pump to see a sustained 13.5V under load. So while maintaining the factory wiring configuration makes it possible to retain the tiny OE fuel return line and basic wiring scheme, the tradeoff is the pump will not receive sufficient voltage to retain its full rated output.
While I do agree with you on max output. I did speak to TI or Walbro about this, and they have ratings on their website about either running 12v or 13.5. The pump is fine and will have no issues at 12v. Just saying. But good point. The biggest improvement was the engineering a tighter fit, and no leaks within the hanger. Pressure improved, and flow improved, and now my only limitation is the 12.5V I have vs running it in 13.5. But in time, I might go ahead and try to do a rewire like MFred does, and see if we can find a better way to maintain the low/high setting that all of us enjoy.
I also have upgraded feed lines and return line, and maxed out my bore on the hanger for return flow. I bored the plastic Y fitting on the hanger that is the return, even larger than anyone has done. I went as large of a bore as I could without decreasing integrity of the plastic Y.
Pumps never flow their claimed flow numbers because bench tests are not the same as an in car test.
A pump will also flow more volume at a lower pressure than at a higher pressure.
So seeing that hardly anyone knows what the pressure is supposed to be or whether it's right or wrong, then equally, hardly anyone knows how many litres per hour a pump will flow on a car at the correct pressure.
Your voltage reading of 8 ish at low speed (resistor in circuit) compares to 9+ volts with a stock pump. It's actually lower. That's due to it flowing more current. You can't rely on ohm readings for a pump because it's not a resistor, it's an inductor and it's impedance changes with RPM and pressure.........just to complicate things even more.
To add to that.........you actually NEED a certain amount of resistance in the wiring to help to stabilise the pressure........If you had a zero ohm feed to it.........it'll just pump more and more fuel......then the FPR won't work properly. Even a BIG one.
Everything is designed the way it is for a reason.
Anyone who thinks the factory wiring isn't up to the job, that's because they don't understand why it is the way it is.
Stable pressure is far more important than excessive flow.
Last edited by RightSaid fred; Aug 24, 2017 at 02:30 AM.
Everything is designed the way it is for a reason.
Anyone who thinks the factory wiring isn't up to the job, that's because they don't understand why it is the way it is.
Stable pressure is far more important than excessive flow.
What a bunch of malarkey Fred.
Yea the factory wiring is totally ample for a pump that draws almost twice the current......keep dreaming.
This guys is steering you wrong! Your doing the right thing eliminating voltage drops. They use wire that's barely big enough because copper is expensive.
People change the base fuel pressure on vehicles all the time, usually to get more flow out of an injector on the big end. As long as you can get the car to idle properly it's not a big deal.
If you base fuel pressure follows vac/boost in a linear fashion and your still having issues with AFR it's a tuning problem period.
Pumps never flow their claimed flow numbers because bench tests are not the same as an in car test.
A pump will also flow more volume at a lower pressure than at a higher pressure.
So seeing that hardly anyone knows what the pressure is supposed to be or whether it's right or wrong, then equally, hardly anyone knows how many litres per hour a pump will flow on a car at the correct pressure.
Your voltage reading of 8 ish at low speed (resistor in circuit) compares to 9+ volts with a stock pump. It's actually lower. That's due to it flowing more current. You can't rely on ohm readings for a pump because it's not a resistor, it's an inductor and it's impedance changes with RPM and pressure.........just to complicate things even more.
To add to that.........you actually NEED a certain amount of resistance in the wiring to help to stabilise the pressure........If you had a zero ohm feed to it.........it'll just pump more and more fuel......then the FPR won't work properly. Even a BIG one.
Everything is designed the way it is for a reason.
Anyone who thinks the factory wiring isn't up to the job, that's because they don't understand why it is the way it is.
Stable pressure is far more important than excessive flow.
Your voltage reading of 8 ish at low speed (resistor in circuit) compares to 9+ volts with a stock pump. It's actually lower. That's due to it flowing more current. You can't rely on ohm readings for a pump because it's not a resistor, it's an inductor and it's impedance changes with RPM and pressure.........just to complicate things even more.
A pump will also flow more volume at a lower pressure than at a higher pressure.
Guys, this is true. Read Walbro's website on this. I found it surprising too when I read it as well.
As to variation between 9V and 8Volts, I have always read that low voltage for the EVO is 8V.
I can verify the resistance on the pump. I measured it one day and it was 500 milliohms. Measured it yesterday, and it read 900 milliohms.
Pumps never flow their claimed flow numbers because bench tests are not the same as an in car test.
A pump will also flow more volume at a lower pressure than at a higher pressure.
So seeing that hardly anyone knows what the pressure is supposed to be or whether it's right or wrong, then equally, hardly anyone knows how many litres per hour a pump will flow on a car at the correct pressure.
Your voltage reading of 8 ish at low speed (resistor in circuit) compares to 9+ volts with a stock pump. It's actually lower. That's due to it flowing more current. You can't rely on ohm readings for a pump because it's not a resistor, it's an inductor and it's impedance changes with RPM and pressure.........just to complicate things even more.
To add to that.........you actually NEED a certain amount of resistance in the wiring to help to stabilise the pressure........If you had a zero ohm feed to it.........it'll just pump more and more fuel......then the FPR won't work properly. Even a BIG one.
Everything is designed the way it is for a reason.
Anyone who thinks the factory wiring isn't up to the job, that's because they don't understand why it is the way it is.
Stable pressure is far more important than excessive flow.
Apr 7, 2017, 12:01 AM
