Full Race EFR 7670 Install.
#1
Full Race EFR 7670 top mount Install.
I bought the Full Race EFR 7670 iwg and there was no real info on how to set it up. So with many emails and pm’s I decided to help out other with some of the things I learned along the way.
This is how she looks after the install.
Now, more about the things that will make your install smother.
If you don’t have a cat/test pipe you will need one. The efr dp bolts to the to bolt flange where ther cat is located. You will need a radiator from an evo 4-5-6. This positions the water neck closer to the driver side. I recommend a mishimoto evo 4-5-6 upper rad hose as well. A slim fan is also needed; I used a 12 in puller spal fan. A custom lower intercooler pipe be needed if you have a none oem style intercooler like an ETS. The full race lower ic pipe is made to work with oem style intercoolers. For the intake I used an inverted cone filter with a 3.5 in velocity stack and a section of 3.5in coupler. Boost resource turbo blanket is a very nice piece that keeps temps down.
Spal fan
Bracket for the fan module
Intake
Ok now more about the install. The install is not that bad once you find the sweet spot for “clocking” the turbo. The wg will have to use the straight bracket included with the kit and will be off set to only use the last two holes. This is a bad picture but you can see what im taking about but this picture.
The bolts holding the back housing to the center section will need to be loosened. This will allow you to rotate the wg flapper to match up with the arm and tuck it under the turbo. The bolts are in blue.
The coolant feed line we routed under the turbo to keep the hose from snaking around the bay.
The coolant retun line we also made short and dropped it down and out of the way of the hot parts.
The oem oil feed gets a fancy block off plug. Lol
Oil return will use the gt flange on the pan and the other fitting into the turbo its self.
The new oil supply will come off the filter housing closer to the tire. Not the one in the back.
Priming the oil feed line is important. the best way to do this is to have the car on level ground. start by disconnecting the crank sensor on the back side of the motor by the pcv line. next disconnect your coil pack and then crank away until oil starts flowing (this takes some time be patient).
the plugs on the cop that need to be disconnected
A picture of the efr with the turbosmart block off plate, using the block off due to not having a way to block off the tial currently residing on my upper pipe. That will change soon thought.
Here is some Full Race ****. Yes this is work safe lol.
Top mount manifold
The divider on the manifold.
Down pipe and hardware kit
Stacking Dimes
Pretty turbo
this is all i can remember for now but i will be back to add more as i can think of it. Also i will post results as soon as they are available. If you have any question feel free to ask and enjoy the pictures.
I want to thank my buddy Jake from statefarm for helping me with this install.
Also want to thanks Geoff and the full race team for helping me whit my hundereds of emails and phone calls.
Ian at map for supplying me with random parts that i needed fast and at reasonable prices.
Thanks for looking,
Fritz
This is how she looks after the install.
Now, more about the things that will make your install smother.
If you don’t have a cat/test pipe you will need one. The efr dp bolts to the to bolt flange where ther cat is located. You will need a radiator from an evo 4-5-6. This positions the water neck closer to the driver side. I recommend a mishimoto evo 4-5-6 upper rad hose as well. A slim fan is also needed; I used a 12 in puller spal fan. A custom lower intercooler pipe be needed if you have a none oem style intercooler like an ETS. The full race lower ic pipe is made to work with oem style intercoolers. For the intake I used an inverted cone filter with a 3.5 in velocity stack and a section of 3.5in coupler. Boost resource turbo blanket is a very nice piece that keeps temps down.
Spal fan
Bracket for the fan module
Intake
Ok now more about the install. The install is not that bad once you find the sweet spot for “clocking” the turbo. The wg will have to use the straight bracket included with the kit and will be off set to only use the last two holes. This is a bad picture but you can see what im taking about but this picture.
The bolts holding the back housing to the center section will need to be loosened. This will allow you to rotate the wg flapper to match up with the arm and tuck it under the turbo. The bolts are in blue.
The coolant feed line we routed under the turbo to keep the hose from snaking around the bay.
The coolant retun line we also made short and dropped it down and out of the way of the hot parts.
The oem oil feed gets a fancy block off plug. Lol
Oil return will use the gt flange on the pan and the other fitting into the turbo its self.
The new oil supply will come off the filter housing closer to the tire. Not the one in the back.
Priming the oil feed line is important. the best way to do this is to have the car on level ground. start by disconnecting the crank sensor on the back side of the motor by the pcv line. next disconnect your coil pack and then crank away until oil starts flowing (this takes some time be patient).
the plugs on the cop that need to be disconnected
A picture of the efr with the turbosmart block off plate, using the block off due to not having a way to block off the tial currently residing on my upper pipe. That will change soon thought.
Here is some Full Race ****. Yes this is work safe lol.
Top mount manifold
The divider on the manifold.
Down pipe and hardware kit
Stacking Dimes
Pretty turbo
this is all i can remember for now but i will be back to add more as i can think of it. Also i will post results as soon as they are available. If you have any question feel free to ask and enjoy the pictures.
I want to thank my buddy Jake from statefarm for helping me with this install.
Also want to thanks Geoff and the full race team for helping me whit my hundereds of emails and phone calls.
Ian at map for supplying me with random parts that i needed fast and at reasonable prices.
Thanks for looking,
Fritz
Last edited by Evo MR IX Fritz; May 28, 2015 at 10:31 PM.
#2
New skunk2 intake manifold that will be ported by curt brown and then powder coated to match the new color scheme in the engine bay.
Cbrd ultra slim radiator for more room.
New custom lower intercooler pipe made by rich at R.A.W. We made it a 2 piece.
Radium inline extra range fuel pulse damper.
Last edited by Evo MR IX Fritz; Feb 7, 2016 at 07:55 AM.
#4
Evolving Member
This will be of great assistance, thanks
Would be interested to hear your thoughts on the down pipe, that can't be good for flow? Almost like a brick wall at the end of the turbo... Understand there are constraints if you want to retain AC etc etc, just doesn't seem to do the turbo (which is supposedly a 'game changer') any justice?
Would be interested to hear your thoughts on the down pipe, that can't be good for flow? Almost like a brick wall at the end of the turbo... Understand there are constraints if you want to retain AC etc etc, just doesn't seem to do the turbo (which is supposedly a 'game changer') any justice?
#6
[Quotes=FossilAus;11449682]This will be of great assistance, thanks
Would be interested to hear your thoughts on the down pipe, that can't be good for flow? Almost like a brick wall at the end of the turbo... Understand there are constraints if you want to retain AC etc etc, just doesn't seem to do the turbo (which is supposedly a 'game changer') any justice?[/QUOTE]
Not sure. But I am sure full race hads tested this and had no I'll effects. They would not provide something that is not up to their standards.
Thanks. the 6758 is a small guy. The 7670 seams to be a perfect match for a stock block 2.0.
Would be interested to hear your thoughts on the down pipe, that can't be good for flow? Almost like a brick wall at the end of the turbo... Understand there are constraints if you want to retain AC etc etc, just doesn't seem to do the turbo (which is supposedly a 'game changer') any justice?[/QUOTE]
Not sure. But I am sure full race hads tested this and had no I'll effects. They would not provide something that is not up to their standards.
Thanks. the 6758 is a small guy. The 7670 seams to be a perfect match for a stock block 2.0.
#7
Newbie
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#8
Evolved Member
iTrader: (23)
The 6758 is a small turbo and that's exactly the point. I want ultimate spool up faster than an Evo 8 turbo and more power than an Evo 9 turbo. If this turbo on E85 with S2 cams makes only 400 hp but gives me a better transient response than my Evo 8 turbo on my 2.0 then I will know I made the right choice.
#9
The 6758 is a small turbo and that's exactly the point. I want ultimate spool up faster than an Evo 8 turbo and more power than an Evo 9 turbo. If this turbo on E85 with S2 cams makes only 400 hp but gives me a better transient response than my Evo 8 turbo on my 2.0 then I will know I made the right choice.
As for the ac thing no I can't afford to lose it as the car is a daily and I live in south Florida where 75 is a cool day lol. Not counting the humidity we have in this tropical waste land...
#13
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
The 6758 is a small turbo and that's exactly the point. I want ultimate spool up faster than an Evo 8 turbo and more power than an Evo 9 turbo. If this turbo on E85 with S2 cams makes only 400 hp but gives me a better transient response than my Evo 8 turbo on my 2.0 then I will know I made the right choice.
A 9 turbo with s2's, intercooler, blah blah blah, will handily make 400whp on E85.