JIC FLTA2 just installed!!!

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Sep 5, 2003 | 10:38 PM

#61

protocol_droid

Newbie

Joined: Apr 2003

Posts: 17

Likes: 0

From: SD, CA

The 'soft' is a relative term and I can't tell a damn bit that there's more body roll now. The thing grips like nothing I've ever felt. If one wants to stiffen it up for the track, so be it with a few careful clicks and thus body roll eliminated. For street, have it a set a little softer for the wife and kids. That's what these coilovers are for...adjustability. For the price, you can't beat the quality and adjustability.

Sep 5, 2003 | 11:41 PM

#62

pete98m3

Newbie

Joined: Sep 2003

Posts: 20

Likes: 0

hmmm, just mentioned the body roll issue because from a photographers trackside photo ours is rolling pretty bad in the corners, especially when it has the slicks on it. think 3 wheeling with the front bumper only a couple inches off the ground... lol

changing the shock damping won't change body roll on a normal corner, it will change the amount of roll in a slalom or some other thing where the shocks stay in action and can add to the spring rate but in a track corner...

i'm thinking the teins may be the choice for us, kinda a guess in the woods tho. no experiance with either brand i'm used to h&r penski moton etc.

Sep 6, 2003 | 02:51 PM

#63

protocol_droid

Newbie

Joined: Apr 2003

Posts: 17

Likes: 0

From: SD, CA

THe stiffness does make a difference in body roll at least on my subie. I can turn up the stiffness and less body roll is visible. The sways do the majority of the job, but the shocks definitely play a role as well.

Sep 6, 2003 | 05:26 PM

#64

erioshi

Evolved Member

Joined: Mar 2003

Posts: 1,114

Likes: 0

I'm not sure what spring rates are on ccnada's JICs, but my set came with the standard springs; 10k up front, 9k out back. With the dampers set on full soft, I had a 200 lbs person standing on the passengers door sill with the door open try to rock the car by jumping up and down - it barely moved and didn't rock. These springs are HARD.

My car corners like it's on rails now, almost completely flat right to the breaking point. This car is so stiff that when I first pushed it cornering, the inside tires started squealing before the outsides until I had the new tire preasures worked out.

Sep 8, 2003 | 11:28 AM

#65

ob4

Evolving Member

iTrader: (5)

Joined: Jun 2003

Posts: 109

Likes: 0

From: Norcal

Has anyone tried different spring rates on the jic's (ie 8k front and 6k rear) or (9k front and 7k rear)? If so, what are the differences. I think if the rates are too high, your car can skip during hard conering on rough road surfaces. Also, where do you get the replacement springs and how much.

Thanks!

Sep 8, 2003 | 12:15 PM

#66

SS RX7 r2

Evolved Member

iTrader: (1)

Joined: Feb 2003

Posts: 1,038

Likes: 2

From: SoCal

Quote:

Originally posted by ob4
Has anyone tried different spring rates on the jic's (ie 8k front and 6k rear) or (9k front and 7k rear)? If so, what are the differences. I think if the rates are too high, your car can skip during hard conering on rough road surfaces. Also, where do you get the replacement springs and how much.

Thanks!

I bought a spare 8k set from Zeil. That said the problem of skipping and bouncing has to do with rebound damping. When I first tested the system on a relativly soft setting, the front had much worse grip due to bouncing. With the standard spring rates you have to use the upper settings. Now the car has much more cornering and transitional grip than stock. It is more of a competion set-up than something you would want for street cruising. I think there was some confusion in the article by SCC.

Jan 30, 2005 | 06:21 PM

#67

HxllxMan

Evolved Member

iTrader: (6)

Joined: Jan 2004

Posts: 904

Likes: 0

From: Tahiti, French Polynesia

Quote:

Originally Posted by ccnada

I ordered these coilovers Thur. 8/7 and received them 8/8 and installed them that evening. I got them from Dan @ Vividracing. Thanks for the great service Dan.

Anyways the install was pretty straight forward. They are a direct bolt on. Nothing else needed. No strut tops, bolts, brackets. Nothing.

The ride is unbelievable. I have the settings set pretty soft and they are softer than stock! The ride height is also tucked. If my friend Sap could post those pix I would appreciate it. I was very supprized. The height that it is set to is about 1 finger in the front and dead even in the rear. The ride is smooth. The stock ride is stiffer. Now on turns there is a little more roll, but if you want the stiffer ride, a few turns and your there. The rear settings are 4 clicks from softest, and the fronts are 8 clicks from softest.

I do have the DMS coilovers in my Subaru and I am seriously thinking about swapping them out with the JIC.

I vote JIC for best coilovers for the price. They are nice and shiny too!

Cedric

You are saying the ride is softer than stock? I can't believe that, just got mine installed yesterday, and the car is so stiff even with damper set to 0.

How you do to get smooth than stock. would like to know before I removed them.

Jan 31, 2005 | 09:00 AM

#68

erioshi

Evolved Member

Joined: Mar 2003

Posts: 1,114

Likes: 0

How hard or soft your coilovers are will depend on the spring rates and damping. I did find that the middle setting actually provided more compliance than full soft for me. I'm guessing that adjustable bits on my set are a bit out of whack.

Anopther quick question, did you just install them, or did you have them put in, tuned, and the car properly cornerweighted? My bad analogy is "Installing coilovers is alot more like replacing your ECU with a stand alone engine computer than installing in a cat-back" exhaust." The point is that there are alot of different variables that go into having a properly working suspension. It's best to go to someone who can figure out what you're looking for and help guide you in the right direction.