Checked these bolts on mine, but they were not loose at all. pulled all 4 brembos to have them powder coated before I put new seals and dust boots on em. So what is that gold piece bolted in on that picture?? obviously it stiffens everything up, just curious what it is, where you got it? Did you notice a big difference with/without it??

 

That picture that depicts the crossmember bracket is a random pic I pulled off internet. So, I can't help you with ID'ing it for what it is.


But ! When you say, that bolt is not loose it is not supposed to be loose at all. It is tight as hell, but still, you need to give a good tightening to just to make sure and in couple of cases it helped people to get rid of the clunk the car makes when you stop and pull away sometimes. Yep. Even if it doesn't seem loose - tighten it. But don't go too overboard, because the spec on that bolt is 170ftlbs.

 

Had a weird metal on metal scraping noise that turned into a clunk. The rear engine mount was bad. Diagnosed it with a pry bar between trans case and front member. Engine moved a lot and made the scraping noise. If it moved enough will clunk.

 

I have had this issue for a bit.....clunking noise on the passenger side front after coming out of the driveway and making my 1st left turn or hitting a small bump within the first 100-300 feet of driving....inspected my suspension found my outer tie rod has play going to change that out & also re-torque my upper factory sway bar....currently the likely symptoms seem to be:

1. Front suspension top hats
2. Rear/Side Engine mounts
3. Ball joints / Tie rods

I let you guys know if it stops & what my cause is.....for this thread to still be going from 2003 its safe to say it a common issue

 

UPDATE: I fixed the threads in my passenger front caliper. Assembled everything last night and so far I haven't heard "the noise". There a few people that have posted the noise goes away after having the car jacked up for a while so I will give it a few days before I call it fixed. Also, did not powder coat the calipers at this time; my 30 day tags expire in 3 days and I need to have the car echecked. That is definately on the list for once I put her away for the winter...

 

just got done diagnosing my new front end clunk. since it would happen whether the left OR the right wheel hit a bump I decided beforehand it was likely related to the FSB.

Sure enough, got under there and the rightside, lower end link was loose, when I shake it, it rattles. Put my 14mm socket on the nut and it just turned and turned. obviously I don't know how it works. I put my 5mm hex driver on the center bolt and that just turned and turned too. Then I tried to turn the nut with a wrench while holding the bolt with the hex driver... it didn't want to turn.

so, rather then force/break something, I decided to spray it with some liquid wrench to soak overnight and come here and find out how those FSB lower end links are tightened/attached. The rubber looks to be in good shape.

Someone please explain this to me.

 

can anyone help with this?

 

please see below

 

^^^ I am no help with the FSB lower links. maybe this link could help:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ring-rack.html

OK, so caliper is fixed but noise is persisting. It ONLY happens when the wheel is turned to the left; and it doesn't need to be turned much at all. driving down a rough road, with the wheel perfectly straight there is not noise. turn it left ever so slightly (still driving straight in lane) and the noise is present. This must be steering related. I don't think the bearing above the strut (top hat?) could be causing the noise because there is hardly any movement with it when nudging the wheel left. hmmm?

 

"3. Remove the fixing bolts of swaybar end links to front swaybar."

that's all it says. nothing specific as to how. I guess it should be obvious.

 

Cmon guys, I know many of you have taken stock end links off of a stock FSB...

On the lower end where it attaches to the control arm, is the trick to hold the center with the hex driver and turn the nut with a wrench? Or is my end link damaged/stripped?

Please advise!

 

correct^.

although i have changed mine with no success. good way to test them is to disconnect the links and drive around, if it still makes the noise then they arent the issue.

 

My description of how to turn them is correct, it's not that they're stripped?

It's weird, searched this site and google for any images of the center bolt with the hex hole or any descriptions of how they work and couldn't find anything.

how did changing them not work? Were you trying to fix a clunk but it never went away?

I know my endlink is a problem because it rattles when I shake it by hand. And the clunk is so obvious that after tightening it, a 5 minute drive will confirm whether it's fixed or not.

 

Well, I checked out what was recommended to tighten.

1. Front suspension top hats=Not really sure these are good.
2. Rear/Side Engine mounts=Good!
3. Ball joints / Tie rods=Good!

When I tighten the top hats, I think I may have over tightened them. At the tightest point, I think the bolt is slipping on the top hats. So I'm guessing I over tightened several bolts causing the bolt to move on the top hat. The nuts aren't stripped nor is the bolt. I'm guessing it's where the bolt connects to the top hat...it's slipping there. If I over tighten it, it makes the same clunk type noise that I've been hearing. I may need to change out the top hats on both sides. What are the torque specs for those nuts to tighten down the strut bar?

 

would/could a ball joint only make a clunking noise when turning a certain direction?