RobiSpec Springs
Remember to install them so the tighter portion of the spring is on the bottom. All 4 labels should be upside down when installed properly (at least mine had to be).
Last edited by badev0; Mar 4, 2014 at 01:02 PM.
Hey guys. I went through this when I had these, and did a round of emails with robispec and others.
I found the quote from Robi for ya........
tight coils go to the bottom and yes it matters.
Robi
the lighter coils are a progressive portion even though they look toughing they dont quite and provide a softer extention as the car shifts weight from side to side
What other suspension mods have you done?
Robi
RobiSpec.com
I found the quote from Robi for ya........
tight coils go to the bottom and yes it matters.
Robi
the lighter coils are a progressive portion even though they look toughing they dont quite and provide a softer extention as the car shifts weight from side to side
What other suspension mods have you done?
Robi
RobiSpec.com
Last edited by fireroasted; Mar 6, 2014 at 04:00 PM. Reason: oops removing phone# just in case that isn't cool
I just stepped outside to take a look. both the tighter coils are on the bottom for fronts and rears. The Robi spec logo printed on the coils is facing upwards so you can read it, and the coils are on the bottom. I got mine directly from Robispec. Im curious if maybe this also might be a reason why they have been discounted, possibly stamped wrong
Then you have to hold it together aligned properly while you tighten it. I admit that after several times I got annoyed and bought a HF hydraulic spring compressor which makes that task a 2 minutes thing, but if you are using those manual spring compressors its easy to let everything twist on you while you are tightening and loosening everything. Just keep in mind that the strut shaft should travel through the center of the springs more or less dead center and even. It shouldn't start in one position and end up in another on the other end.
In the pic I see the top perch as sticking up weird. The spring stops, but the top is angled up. ? That should be flat against the spring. So the stock top hat may have some angle to it I am forgetting (I have camber plates). Make sure that the hat doesn't force some angle and you have it 180 degrees off.
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there is a hole in the upper spring perch that aligns with a hole in the lower perch. a 12" piece of 1/4-20 threaded rod with a nut one one end is helpful for aligning the perches.
So i redid the one spring. First i sat the top of the spring where the old spring sat.

Theres pretty much no way to put the top perch on wrong as there is slot/indent on the piston rod.

I put the readyrod through anyhow as Mrfred said to be double sure.

But now the bottom is knowhere near the step/stop on the bottom perch. I pushed in the rubber seat to show its not there

Now its either i got a bad set of springs or these are sold as cheap as they are because they where made with the wrong specs/orientation. If i put the tight coils on top the ends of the spring sit where the old springs sat in the perches.

Theres pretty much no way to put the top perch on wrong as there is slot/indent on the piston rod.

I put the readyrod through anyhow as Mrfred said to be double sure.

But now the bottom is knowhere near the step/stop on the bottom perch. I pushed in the rubber seat to show its not there

Now its either i got a bad set of springs or these are sold as cheap as they are because they where made with the wrong specs/orientation. If i put the tight coils on top the ends of the spring sit where the old springs sat in the perches.
You are lining up the top, your first step, but that is not relevant and throwing off the rest of your task. The top seat is flat, so that no matter where you put the spring, its the same. Its the bottom that is the key.
So set the bottom first and make sure it doesn't turn or spin as you wrestle with those manual compressors. The little rubber indent on the top seat doesn't matter. That rubber is also even or flat. Its just the bottom rubber that has a step in it.
Another factor that you will run into with the manual one side at a time compressor is they bend the spring as they compress unless its totally evenly done. Which, it never is, so keep your eye on how much one side compresses via the other.
I don't recall if I could get them on there without compressors like badevO mentions, but it could be possible. Won't hurt to try that. I think that would require different top hats than stock though.
So again, forget about where the top springs spins to. Just line up the bottom on the step properly and do it evenly.
So set the bottom first and make sure it doesn't turn or spin as you wrestle with those manual compressors. The little rubber indent on the top seat doesn't matter. That rubber is also even or flat. Its just the bottom rubber that has a step in it.
Another factor that you will run into with the manual one side at a time compressor is they bend the spring as they compress unless its totally evenly done. Which, it never is, so keep your eye on how much one side compresses via the other.
I don't recall if I could get them on there without compressors like badevO mentions, but it could be possible. Won't hurt to try that. I think that would require different top hats than stock though.
So again, forget about where the top springs spins to. Just line up the bottom on the step properly and do it evenly.
Man, don't feel dumb. This is a great thread, and you took everyones advice and took great pictures. This will be very helpful for other people down the road. I have done spring jobs like this many times and the EVO was by far the most difficult. And using the manual spring compressors is tough.
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