RobiSpec Springs
Just as an FYI for those whom might be interested; I just offered $120 for the Robispec springs on ebay and it was accepted within about 10 minutes.
I don't know if they would go lower than that, but $120 is $20 off of the asking price.
I don't know if they would go lower than that, but $120 is $20 off of the asking price.
Got them mounted on my MR shocks tonight.
It all started when I called the local stealership to ask what they would charge to replace my springs. $450. Don't think so holmes. I had previously made calls to the local "race setup" specialist, and got bull-ish'ed, as well as a local alignment shop who stated he would "look it up and call me back".
I decided to do it myself, source $150 worth of tools, know it is done the way I want (camber bolt) and save myself 300 bones.
The new tools:
Pep boys Kawi Electric Impact = $59. (marked wrong on shelf, rang up at $74 but they gave it to me at advertised.
11pc. Impact sockets, $20 Walmart. Yeah, I'm a weekend warrior, no need for Snap-on... yet.
3 ton jack stands, $20, Walmart.
2.5 ton jack, $25, Walmart.
Spring Compressor. $58 deposit to be refunded when returned, Advance Auto Parts.
The spring swap:
It took about 2 hrs including dinner to mount the springs onto my shocks that are off the car. One beer during dinner, two Aleve following the spring swap, bending over wore my back out, gals and dudes.
Fronts need to be compressed quite a bit to get off and on safely in my opinion. First one I did with a combination wrench and it took forever. Second one I spun the compressor down with an electric impact, but I alternated back and forth between the compressors VERY frequently. Voooom plak plak plak, switch, Voom plak plak plak, repeat often. It took about a tenth the time.
Next, just put your shoe on the rear springs, and spin the nut off. It has very little tension. When reinstalling, just push down on the top mount, while someone else screws the nut on. No tensioner needed for removal or installation.

I think tomorrow I will proceed with the swap. I am a bit concerned that one of my rear shocks is showing more threads than the other, despite multiple attempts to push down on it and tighten it.
I think I will be able to tighten it more once it is in the car, as the car should compress it much more than my bodyweight... 
All in all, not too big a deal. And I haven't done much work on cars. When I swapped my exhaust mani last weekend, I had to buy metric combination wrenches...
It all started when I called the local stealership to ask what they would charge to replace my springs. $450. Don't think so holmes. I had previously made calls to the local "race setup" specialist, and got bull-ish'ed, as well as a local alignment shop who stated he would "look it up and call me back".
I decided to do it myself, source $150 worth of tools, know it is done the way I want (camber bolt) and save myself 300 bones.

The new tools:
Pep boys Kawi Electric Impact = $59. (marked wrong on shelf, rang up at $74 but they gave it to me at advertised.
11pc. Impact sockets, $20 Walmart. Yeah, I'm a weekend warrior, no need for Snap-on... yet.
3 ton jack stands, $20, Walmart.
2.5 ton jack, $25, Walmart.
Spring Compressor. $58 deposit to be refunded when returned, Advance Auto Parts.
The spring swap:
It took about 2 hrs including dinner to mount the springs onto my shocks that are off the car. One beer during dinner, two Aleve following the spring swap, bending over wore my back out, gals and dudes.

Fronts need to be compressed quite a bit to get off and on safely in my opinion. First one I did with a combination wrench and it took forever. Second one I spun the compressor down with an electric impact, but I alternated back and forth between the compressors VERY frequently. Voooom plak plak plak, switch, Voom plak plak plak, repeat often. It took about a tenth the time.
Next, just put your shoe on the rear springs, and spin the nut off. It has very little tension. When reinstalling, just push down on the top mount, while someone else screws the nut on. No tensioner needed for removal or installation.

I think tomorrow I will proceed with the swap. I am a bit concerned that one of my rear shocks is showing more threads than the other, despite multiple attempts to push down on it and tighten it.
I think I will be able to tighten it more once it is in the car, as the car should compress it much more than my bodyweight... 
All in all, not too big a deal. And I haven't done much work on cars. When I swapped my exhaust mani last weekend, I had to buy metric combination wrenches...
Jay, great sound effects and narrative..
As far as tools go. A Harbour Frieght opened near me. Good source for cheap weekend warrior stuff.
I'm doing mine Sunday, I took the liberty of volunteering my brother who's a truck mechanic to give me a hand.
As far as tools go. A Harbour Frieght opened near me. Good source for cheap weekend warrior stuff.
I'm doing mine Sunday, I took the liberty of volunteering my brother who's a truck mechanic to give me a hand.
Thanks catman! 
Yessir, Harbor Freight was were I was headed when I swung into Pep Boys for the Impact. Pep Boys + Walmart = .5 miles from my house. Harbor Freight = 30 minutes.
I bought my torque wrench at HF Saturday for my exhaust manifold. I'll be heading back over there this weekend for my breaker bar and 1/2" torque wrench. Those front suspension components are much above the 3/8"'s upper-range of 80lb/ft.
Btw, I woke up thinking about my rear shocks -one showing more threads- issue. I've decided I should be able to use the stud removal method to hold the shock threads. put two nuts on top of the mounting nut, but not touching it. Tighten the top nut down onto the middle nut. Hold the middle nut with a combination wrench, and tighten the bottom (shock-top) nut. That should work.

Yessir, Harbor Freight was were I was headed when I swung into Pep Boys for the Impact. Pep Boys + Walmart = .5 miles from my house. Harbor Freight = 30 minutes.
I bought my torque wrench at HF Saturday for my exhaust manifold. I'll be heading back over there this weekend for my breaker bar and 1/2" torque wrench. Those front suspension components are much above the 3/8"'s upper-range of 80lb/ft.

Btw, I woke up thinking about my rear shocks -one showing more threads- issue. I've decided I should be able to use the stud removal method to hold the shock threads. put two nuts on top of the mounting nut, but not touching it. Tighten the top nut down onto the middle nut. Hold the middle nut with a combination wrench, and tighten the bottom (shock-top) nut. That should work.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9,002
Likes: 12
From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Enjoy them and the car! And DIY is the way to go
Gives you that "I did it" accomplishment.

By the way, did you all get a shipping confirmation when you purchased yours? I bought them on Monday, and still haven't received anything directly from the seller.
Yeah, I did. Check your junk mail folder. I had to look around a bit for it, actually, now that I think about it, the tracking number bay have been in My Ebay so be sure to check there.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9,002
Likes: 12
From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Install done on the new Evo, here are my impressions so far.
Ride report, Bilstein + Robispec springs are fairly stiff, yet compliant over bumps.
Appearance: Zero or almost zero rake. Raised the front 2" and the rear 1" over my JIC coilovers. I have no idea how high it is compared to stock, so I'm going to try to track down that center hub measurement of a stock IX. The car looks high (of course it was 'tucking' when I bought it and yes, I know my JIC were adjustable for height), and has a ton of front fender gap. It also has a ton of travel, which is exactly what I was looking for.
I am VERY pleased so far. Those seeking to lower their car may not feel the same way. My tastes have matured (read: gotten too old for race cars on the street) and I'd say it looks like a stock Evo. It does not drag or scrape when entering and exiting over inclines or bumps.
Ride report, Bilstein + Robispec springs are fairly stiff, yet compliant over bumps.
Appearance: Zero or almost zero rake. Raised the front 2" and the rear 1" over my JIC coilovers. I have no idea how high it is compared to stock, so I'm going to try to track down that center hub measurement of a stock IX. The car looks high (of course it was 'tucking' when I bought it and yes, I know my JIC were adjustable for height), and has a ton of front fender gap. It also has a ton of travel, which is exactly what I was looking for.
I am VERY pleased so far. Those seeking to lower their car may not feel the same way. My tastes have matured (read: gotten too old for race cars on the street) and I'd say it looks like a stock Evo. It does not drag or scrape when entering and exiting over inclines or bumps.







