Toekneee!

iTrader: (3)

Okay so I changed out the pads/rotor a few months ago. Lately I've noticed the rear rotors look like they did out of the box. Still have the cross hatching marks. So i've been driving around without rear brakes for too long...

What could be the issue? Seized caliper? I didn't open any lines when replacing them...maybe bleeding will help? Thanks guys!

barneyb

Put a service jack under the rear differential. Raise the car, start the engine and have someone depress the brake pedal. Can you turn the rear wheels by hand?

sktng22

iTrader: (3)

did you grease the slides when you did the brakes

Toekneee!

iTrader: (3)

Only the back of the pads... What do you mean slides?

sktng22

iTrader: (3)

the pins that go through the pads to hold them into the rotor. grease them up or clean them real good on a wire brush wheel. it could cause uneven pad wear. if you where able to push the calipers pistons in to get the new pads on then they shouldnt be seized. do the back sides of the rotors still look new too? as if neither of the pads are touching at all? also bleeding them wouldnt hurt to ensure theres no air pockets in there

barneyb

What seems screwy about this is that each of the two hydraulic circuits on the master cylinder connects to one front and one rear wheel. So, it seems like if no rear brakes there should also be no front brakes.

MechTech

How many miles since you did it? Jack it up and have someone press the brake and see if its actually working. Depending on how many miles and what kind of braking your doing that cross hatching can be seen for some time. Also outline how you did the job step by step, ALL of it. What brands did you use? Are the pads stuck jammed in there? Did you push the pistons back in? How? Did you bleed the brakes? etc.

Toekneee!

iTrader: (3)

I followed a step by step online.
Removed wheels
Removed calipers and pin
Removed shim/spring
Removed pads
Greased back of new pads
Pressed in piston
Put new pad in and reassembled

I didn't bleed the brakes or anything. It took a bit of force to get the caliper on the rotor because it was a tight fit. It's been about 4 months since I've changed them. I now read that I was supposed to grease the sides of the pads and the shim which I didn't.

Yesterday I loosened the rear bleeder valves and pumped a bit until I saw fluid and closed right away. It seems to be less cross hatching on the rotors now. But I'm not 100% sure if they're fully engaging.

barneyb

if you want to go back in and check things out or add some grease you don't need to remove the caliper to pull the pads.

WRC-LVR

iTrader: (1)

See text i highlighted in bold from your post /\/\/\

This implies the rear calipers had no fluid in them. Any air in the lines or caliper will cause them to not work. They aren't going to be working properly if all you got out was air then stopped when you saw a little fluid. Read on how to bleed the brakes properly. Then get a competent mechanic friend to help with bleeding the brakes.