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Why BMW even the E46>evo ct9a

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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 10:00 PM
  #166  
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Originally Posted by deeman101
The calipers are actually exactly the same save for the mounting points (larger diameter bolts and spaced for larger rotors). I used to think the actual caliper design was better until my friend who's a powdercoater literally showed me the pistons and seals are interchangeable. Thats not to say you can't benefit from a larger rotor with mechanical braking advantage and thermal dissipation advantages.

The fronts you drill out the hub's mounting points to M14 if I remember correctly and get rid of the stock dust shield. The rears I don't think anyone has bothered because of the e-brake differences.
Like the rotors, the calipers are physically larger on the 10. I had an extra set of each that I ended up selling. I've had both in my hands and side by side and they are physically larger than the 8 and 9. If I still had the two sets I would measure them. However like I said, the pads are the same size (and part number). I never actually compared the pistons but I'd believe you if you told me they where the same size, given the pad size sharing.

Would be interesting to see if the the physically larger Evo 10 caliper was stiffer than the Evo 8/9 because of the size. I'm not a brake engineer so I wouldn't even begin to venture how you would test that.

We are saying the same thing about the caliper mount sizes and reboring. You just added more detail.

Evo 8/9 brembos:



Evo 10 brembos:


Last edited by razorlab; Apr 14, 2015 at 10:25 PM.
Old Apr 16, 2015 | 05:23 AM
  #167  
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!!!

Last edited by Ralliart004; Apr 16, 2015 at 06:33 AM.
Old Apr 16, 2015 | 05:33 AM
  #168  
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You are correct sir the caliper casting is slightly larger and appears to be larger because of the thicker 'ears' where the caliper mounts to the hub. The piston size is the same with the same spacing and pad.

The advantage for me was 1" larger rotor size that puts you at something like 345 or 350mm that's pretty decent for an OEM package and that's used to stopping a heavier car overall. The rears are a little too hard to convert the spacing is different on the mounting area and the parking brake setup is different as well.

I had figured this was a "cheap" way to see if I could improve braking and not be forced into very aggressive pads that are hard on $$$ and the rotors (not that they don't work don't get me wrong) but my autozone pads are doing quite well with the larger braking leverage and I honestly cant complain to have a 350mm braking package for basically 200.00 lol.

Then I noticed a thread on here with the SCCA TT2 cars being able to use them so I was like well golly I will too....

Originally Posted by razorlab
Like the rotors, the calipers are physically larger on the 10. I had an extra set of each that I ended up selling. I've had both in my hands and side by side and they are physically larger than the 8 and 9. If I still had the two sets I would measure them. However like I said, the pads are the same size (and part number). I never actually compared the pistons but I'd believe you if you told me they where the same size, given the pad size sharing.

Would be interesting to see if the the physically larger Evo 10 caliper was stiffer than the Evo 8/9 because of the size. I'm not a brake engineer so I wouldn't even begin to venture how you would test that.

We are saying the same thing about the caliper mount sizes and reboring. You just added more detail.

Evo 8/9 brembos:



Evo 10 brembos:

Old Apr 16, 2015 | 11:25 AM
  #169  
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So just drill out the mounting holes? Spacing is the same and the caliper is taller to accommodate the larger rotor?
Any issues with brake balance?
Old Apr 16, 2015 | 02:25 PM
  #170  
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Thats what stickier pads are for. The stoptech street rear pads tend to lock the rears sooner than the fronts on the stock brakes.
Old Apr 16, 2015 | 06:43 PM
  #171  
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This is part of your problem and you are not listening. Your suspension set-up is off if you are overbraking the rear on equal pads front and rear. Either too soft in the front, not enough anti-dive or too much rake ... too much weight transfer to the front. Thus your front brakes are doing too much work and overheat ... working on chassis balance may save you a lot of money on brakes

Originally Posted by Grimgrak
Thats what stickier pads are for. The stoptech street rear pads tend to lock the rears sooner than the fronts on the stock brakes.
Old Apr 16, 2015 | 07:38 PM
  #172  
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Originally Posted by kaj
So just drill out the mounting holes? Spacing is the same and the caliper is taller to accommodate the larger rotor?
Any issues with brake balance?
The balance is still pretty neutral but slightly more toward the front (if your a chronic trail/left foot braker like me that's a good thing) and you can definitely tell you have more front brake the first time you stand on the middle pedal and the ABS basically freaks out for a couple pumps lol.
Old Apr 16, 2015 | 08:57 PM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by Ralliart004
The balance is still pretty neutral but slightly more toward the front (if your a chronic trail/left foot braker like me that's a good thing) and you can definitely tell you have more front brake the first time you stand on the middle pedal and the ABS basically freaks out for a couple pumps lol.
sweet. i'm happy with my current setup, but i figure Evo X parts will be around longer.. so this is definitely a viable option in case i need replacements.



Originally Posted by alleggerita
This is part of your problem and you are not listening. Your suspension set-up is off if you are overbraking the rear on equal pads front and rear. Either too soft in the front, not enough anti-dive or too much rake ... too much weight transfer to the front. Thus your front brakes are doing too much work and overheat ... working on chassis balance may save you a lot of money on brakes

Last edited by kaj; Apr 16, 2015 at 09:00 PM.
Old Apr 16, 2015 | 09:46 PM
  #174  
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You guys really have no clue. How many things i've tried to keep the stock calipers viable and they just arn't.. I have the PRSS can't get more anti dive. The stoptech street pads arn't well balanced but what do you expect for such cheap street pads.
A simple swap to st-43's all around solved that problem.
Originally Posted by alleggerita
This is part of your problem and you are not listening. Your suspension set-up is off if you are overbraking the rear on equal pads front and rear. Either too soft in the front, not enough anti-dive or too much rake ... too much weight transfer to the front. Thus your front brakes are doing too much work and overheat ... working on chassis balance may save you a lot of money on brakes
Old Apr 16, 2015 | 11:00 PM
  #175  
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Edit LOL
Old Apr 17, 2015 | 05:35 AM
  #176  
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Well maybe I have good luck with cheap pads lol.

I run autozone gold pads or if I feel kinda BLING!! EBC greens rofl in almost every car and have no real issues maybe im just really slow.

I have burnt up my front caliper/pads and rotors in rally trim but never on full brembo setups without something being very wrong like rubber lines and cheap old brake fluid.

Have you tried to add some directional cooling or ducting maybe some Ti shims??
Old Apr 17, 2015 | 06:46 AM
  #177  
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Been reading this whole thread.

Moral of the story: I don't think y'all are gonna convince him the stock Evo brakes are good (or at a minimum better then he thinks.....which is not good. LOL).
Old Apr 17, 2015 | 07:59 AM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by Grimgrak
I guess these cars just wern't meant to run full weight with say an r8 around the same track. Oh pooh.
Yes doing one stop from 120-40 which happens every 1:16 sec's isn't realistic , your absolutely right because turn 1 is about 135-40 the next turn is 85-40 and the one after that is 110-30 with six more turns remaining and only two as sweepers yeah I agree.

Take my challenge or stfu.
Stock weight Evo X MR (minus spare) at PIR, 130-140 mph into the chicane for 20min sessions x 4. I had minor fade on my last session at 82 degrees outside. A heavier car than your CT9A. I had Motul 600, and Ferodo DS2500s front and rear along with the factory front two piece rotors. These guys have given you all the advice you need repeatedly. If you don't like it fine, but this thread has been beaten to death.



/closed
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