I wonder how much a track day costs vs. a big brake kit.

OP, why don't you test a fluid and pad setup before deciding whether you'll need one or not.

Sure, it might be a waste of $200-$300, but consider that you might be saving thousands in not needing a brake kit.

And it's only one track day. It's not like you can't go to others afterwards. Just progressively brake later and later to find out your braking system's limits.

SS Lines, Blank Rotors, ST43 pads, Flush with RS683 or RT700 brake fluid.

Give it a shot before you make any assumptions.

I enjoy my stock brembo setup, but I only have a 130-70 mph braking zone into Turn 1 at my local track. I don't have SS lines, and I run XT910 in the rear instead of the ST43. Brake fade was the least of my concerns, but it seems like your track might be harsher on brakes than mine.

 

I already have all those things and more. Hell before I got the 2 peice rotors I was fading the one peices on the street all the time.

 

No need just try that where your at and report back.

 

Then there's a problem with your driving. Fading on the street? I don't even do that with street tires and pads, but I also save my fast driving for the racetrack. Well, except for the time I topped out the Evo at 150 mph, but it handled a braking down to 60 without a problem, and my brakes were still good on the subsequent hard stop.

I can't really think of a reasonable circumstance that would cause fade on the street.

I'm thinking it's either driving style-related, or brake system-related, from what you're telling me. A bigger brake kit would just serve to be a band-aid, and mask the underlying issue.

Can you list your current brake setup? I'm intrigued.

 

dont think this has been mentioned, but do you know if your pads are stuck onto the rotor? ( e.g the caliper pistons not releasing full pressure ) this could cause the pads to heat up un-usually fast.

 

You keep mentioning that Alcon is new to the North American market, that has nothing to do with their product selection; the company has been developing on this platform for over 10 years, if you can't do the leg work to find out what wheel fitment you need, that is on you.

HAHA exactly what I was thinking , this thread has went something like .... please help, but I doubt you know more than I do, oh...actually my car is so fast it has brake issues, you people are peasant's, and have no track knowledge.

 

I have listed my brake setup and by fading on the street i mean just doing a 1/4 mile pass logging data stopping hard enough that abs initially kicks in and I back it off just a hair till I come to a stop change directions and make another 1/4 mile style pass. This is rather epic how no one will try the same thing yet claim the problem is in my "style/setup"

The response I got from Alcon is "maybe their engineer will look at the template problem" does that make you feel secure to wind up with a nonrefundable chunk of dead weight that may not fit? No time frame nothing.

 

I've mentioned this like five times already. He does not listen. Blames his track and the street, not his driving. How dare we even explore that possibility!

Instructors must love him.

 

Almost as many times as I have said to go try it. Find a nice little spot go do some 120-30mph stops give yourself a minute cooling time and see if you can do this 20 times without fade. You all wont because you know the stockbrakes with all the band aids in the world wont help on a full weight car.<br />
What exactly are you contributing aside from telling me to pay someone to tell me to spend the least possible amount of time on the brake pedal?

 

Fluid looks subpar
Use RS683 or RT700 and see how it helps

Everything else looks good
ST-43
2 Piece Rotors
SS Lines

Try the track day before you decide to upgrade. A track day is a day in your life and at most $300. Confirm your suspicions before dropping X thousand of dollars on a BBK. It's not much in the grand scheme of things.

You'll probably get more help if you came in the thread with "I was at a track day and had fade I couldn't shake." rather than "I think I'm going to have fade at a track day so I'll upgrade first."

Honey catches more flies than vinegar, and it is you that is the one asking for help. You probably won't want to help the guy with the ****ty know-it-all attitude either. If everyone in the room is telling you the same thing, it's probably a good idea to listen to them. Remember that.

 

How come this thread hasn't been moved to the motorsport section. There's real life feedback over there.

 

I don't have to. I tracked a full weight CT9A for years with stock brembos with upgraded pads, lines, fluid, etc on brake heavy tracks with no issues. In advanced group track days and instructing.

The only time I ever do something like that on the street is when I am bedding in new brake pads.

It's okay, I had fade issues too when I was still learning how to properly drive a car on track. You'll figure it out.

 

My contribution to this thread.

 

My favorite part so far:

"Try doing something that makes no sense and that cars aren't built to do, then you will see how poorly built it is". LOL

That's like saying, "push your car off a cliff and see how flimsy the crash beam is".

 

I guess these cars just wern't meant to run full weight with say an r8 around the same track. Oh pooh.
Yes doing one stop from 120-40 which happens every 1:16 sec's isn't realistic , your absolutely right because turn 1 is about 135-40 the next turn is 85-40 and the one after that is 110-30 with six more turns remaining and only two as sweepers yeah I agree.

Take my challenge or stfu.