http://www.alconkits.com/maintenance-parts

Have you tried emailing and asking them?

 

One of the big problems that entry levels folks (like myself) struggle with braking is compressing the braking zone. You can have the same car entering a corner, one enters and brakes from further out but is a bit more light on the pedal, the other comes in later and brakes harder. Both by the end of the braking zone are running the same mph but the first car actually has added more heat into the overall braking system because that car was on the brakes longer. So yes braking technique CAN affect heat.

There's also the fact that ironically a less advanced driver is more likely to be on the brakes more due to lack of skill, lack of confidence in abilities etc.

You keep bringing this guy up when you have these type of posts but given that we don't know how fast the local competition is that guy could be really fast or he could just be the fastest out of a slow field. It's kinda moot anyway since that guy and his car are most likely different than you and your car. E.g a simple test is how close in times are you running relative to him?

 

I absolutely dive bomb brake and have lost all confidence to do so once I get any fade. The difference between our cars is his has a
cage,
355st-40's vs me on stock
I have ohlins, he has kw3's
I have a 3076 and he has a black.
Thats about it everything else is similar.
I can't even get a consistent feel for my car so I can't get a decent timed run without brake fade.
So far Alcon is not inspiring any confidence as their north american product is just to new and they are telling me that they see stoptech aluminum brackets breaking every week LOL. That even anodized fades vs their paint.

 

A lot of German Evo owners that run Hockenheim that is very hard on the brakes use upgraded brake kits, usually running 18" wheels to get the bigger kits on there.

Alcon has a 6-piston kit for 17" and one for 18" wheels, then there is AP and Stoptech.

Inportracing.de sells airguides for brake cooling that are considered superior to the AMS set-up by those who have used both.

 

Where are these air guides you speak of?
http://importracing.de/produkte/mits...emsanlage.html

 

This one:

http://importracing.de/component/vir....html?Itemid=0



I have ordered a set. I'll let you know how they look when they arrive.

 

Thats supposed to work than the ams direct duct? Price in USD? too bad i can't read any of that site and their pictures dont work.

 

Please do! More pictures would be awesome!



Its about $240USD

 

Got the importracing brake cooling kit.

Price was Euro 190 (VAT deducted) plus Euro 50 for shipping.

It consists of a rubber air guide (sheet rubber) to be mounted on the stock undertray and a set of brackets (laser cut stainless) to mount a rubber air guide (sheet rubber shaped by the 3D stainless brackets like a shovel) on the LCA (stainless hardware supplied). The basic concept of the system is similar to the air guides but much larger (the air guide on the LCA is about 2.5x the size)and likely much more effective.

The seller, as well as others report caliper temperatures that are between 100 to 180 degrees (celsius) less at the caliper and 150 to 200 degrees (celsius) less at the disc.

Instructions are in German only with pictures but if you are somewhat mechanically inclined you won't need them.

System will not work without stock undertray which may limit its use for some. It may also not be effective with an aftermarket splitter but this is conjecture.

If I get around to it I will post a few pics once I got it installed ...

 

I've got the beat rush undertray so wouldn't be hard for me just to make some brackets and make A rubber panel that are like 4 inches wide, to use only at the track.

 

Here are some pics of the importracing pieces.

Re: Beatrush undertray. I believe that one does not have airguides. To fit the undertray pieces you probably would have to rivet/weld on an airguide lip to mount the importracing pieces.

There is also a British supplier that offers the LCA piece only - no air guides for the undertray - though not quite as nicely done:

http://www.nr-autosport.com/aftermar...uct.htm?id=167

 

Ryan gates used a stock setup for I believe almost a whole season.

 

You should try doing the same with your 500 on e85 let me know how it goes.

 

Just curious since I dont think it's been mentioned yet but what does your current brake package consist of? And what tires are you on?

 

I think I read something about 255 RS-3s earlier.

This thread would have been a hundred times more helpful if Grimgrak had opened with a request for advice rather than trolling and flaming everyone.

Anyway, the real questions that need to be asked here are:

- As heel2toe said, what is the current brake setup (pads, rotors, calipers, ducting, fluid) that is fading?
- How are the brakes being used (100% track duty? 98% daily with occasional weekend events?)
- What is the total car weight (full wet, including full race day loadout and driver)
- What mitigation techniques have been tried already? (Ducting adjustments, etc.)
- Why would you think you need 380mm of brakes? There are several intermediate sizes in between stock and a full 380mm setup. If you don't actually need giant 380mm rotors, you definitely don't want the extra weight. If you haven't maxed out the stock Brembos, then the next logical step isn't a heavy and expensive 380mm brake kit.