^I completely agree with everything you just mentioned. Completely forgot about weight as well but were talking CT9A and if the weight is different than stock which it obviously is the chances are its a reduction from stock not addition.

But yeah I find it interesting that the responses are a little aggressive for lack of a better word. We are all only trying to help and yet the responses are abrasive and we still don't really have any background info other than the fact that he is suffering brake fade. There are so many variables to take into account. And a 380mm rotor is HUGE. Will it work? sure. But even then without the right associated parts to complete the system such as good pads fluid ducting etc. the pedal will still turn to mush with enough repeated stops. Its just that the rotors are larger and thus have more surface area to act as a heat sink so it'll buy you some time...

 

He is mostly talking about rotating mass. The only way to reduce weight from stock is to use aluminum hats. You still want the rotor to be made of steel and not really any thinner.

 

Ask Ryan Gates, it went well.

This article was from five years ago.
http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...cer-evo-x.aspx

Just in 2008:
7 wins in 7 events in Modified Class
Superalp Battle Finale win
NASA Road America TT win

The car holds 14 US track records and 5 championships over the course of 5 years

He also does HPDE days with 20min+ sessions as well as the lap events. I know because I've shared track days with him.

2.2L with AMS 900x Turbo system on E85, 500whp+

STOCK brembo calipers
Girodisk 2p rotors
Project Mu Race pads / ST43 pads
275 NT01 R-Compounds

omg, amazing!

188mph

Redline T/A - Mod class champion


GREAT questions. I did ask him some of these at the beginning. Unfortunately he is too blinded by his thought of needing 380's to see anything else.

 

read it again

And Bryan so youre telling me a car that is heavier, has more grip and is potentially more powerful is still using the stock calipers!? Lies!!! GTFO!!!

 

Yes, and I already stated that earlier in this thread to the OP.

I know, it's crazy. Real experience is crazy, right?

To be fair though, Ryans' 10 is far from stock weight now. Back in 2008 it was near stock weight though.

 

Oh I recall you mentioning it earlier on. And yeah after I posted that I remembered that his X aint no heavy pig I recall it being around 2800# IIRC. However wider and stickier tires to boot.

I just want to know what his current brake system consists of as you'd think it would have been mentioned...

 

I'm not exactly sure how this matters. I have two peice rotors, fresh racing blue fluid, ti backing plates st-43 SS lines. Most of which I got from the other evo that I keep referring to. He has gone the st-40 route and still is borderline. <br />
I refuse to spend one cent on a track day until I can make sure I dont fade in 2 stops from 120. <br />
All the class winners mean nothing to me as they are all sub 500whp cars or they are not even fricken ct9a's<br />
Again my offer is open to anyone who wants to come try their stock brakes at my local track. I'll give you the money i'd put into a bbk if you can do it with stock brembos on a full weight car. Come and get it easy money!<br />

 

If your brakes fade from two stops from 120mph then something else is going on, perhaps your technique, as many many many many CT9A track drivers do that all day long, even with your same type of set up.

I know, I was one of them.

500whp or not, braking hard from 120 mph has much less to do with horsepower and you keep bringing up your local track like there aren't brake challenging tracks anywhere else in North America.

Like I said before, you are blind to the help because you have already made your decision. God speed.

 

is OP trolling? i run stock brakes with DTC 70/60 pads and good fluid. i've had no issues.

 

This would be tempting if there was any anticipation that you would follow up on it. Track cars don't need oodles of horsepower to be fast. If you have a low grip, high horsepower car, then you are just going to cook your brakes and tires.

Also, I drag raced at Mission back in my Bellingham days. The race course surface is pretty much ****. Go to a real track. Your fellow Canadians show up late to the driver's meetings at The Ridge and Pacific all the time.

 

Interesting thread from lancerregister:

http://www.lancerregister.com/showth...ght=pagid+rs29

 

This is a good thread, it goes to show how a well informed and helpful debate can narrow down problems.


O.P. Have you driven a similar setup car at the same track ? Have you let someone more knowledgeable drive your car to confirm it's the same issue ? I do this quite often (switch drivers), last season I stepped out of my Elise and into a Exiege who's driver was having problems; it took one run to realize the car was set up completely wrong for a tight course, and after a few adjustments he was running with me.

 

Drag racing a mission tells you jack squat about how hard the rest of the track is on brakes. <br />
I have only driven my fd with stoptechs and pf-01 race pads which still fade there (altho it does last longer than the evo) On the street the evo will fade before the fd so there is no point taking the evo to the track. If the other evo I reference is still having issues on stoptechs it really blows my mind that you people still think it's &quot;technique&quot; or &quot;skill&quot;<br />
I dont feather or drag the brake. I threshold brake the moment I touch the pedal.
I am trying to decide between the alcon 380 which they dont have a proper wheel template for and will require me to get a wheel with 435mm inner barrel clearance in an 18. Pretty tough to do without going multipeice so far as even volks dont seem to have that much. I'd much rather stay with a one peice wheel if possible.
Other optoin is to get the trophy 355 for now knowing things will fit (without new wheels) and upgrade to 380 hardware (if needed later) and find someone to make me a bracket to go 380 which might be a pita.

 

Show me a video of you doing 3 stops then from 120 to 0 back to back with no video cutting or coasting to cool off. If you dont start fading on the 3rd one I'll consider that optoin.

 

Now it's three times instead of two? Now it's 120 to 0 mph? Who does that at a track and not get kicked out or have other cars end up in their back seat? Is it a reverse drag racing track? NOBODY DOES 120 to 0 MPH on a race track. NOBODY.

There are SOOOO MANY VIDEOS ONLINE of tracked evos with stock brembos doing laps. SO MANY.

Fading your Evo brakes on the street with ST43 pads? COME ON NOW.

Serious troll is serious troll at this point. Ridiculous thread.