I am also curious/ this is a pad selection issue more than the size of the brake disc/ kit. I had the 380mm Brembo kit on my E46 M3 with free floating rotors etc. etc. Did the kit perform well, of course, would I buy one again NOOOO. The cost of replacement rotors and having to re wire the safety system in a free floating rotor for track use is absolutely horrendous. There is a reason GT3 Porsche track day cars run solid rotors, no one can afford to replace the heat stress cracked cross drilled rotors unless your making stupid money. Bottom line, if you want to look cool with the biggest BBK ever, buy it, if your going for actual consistent and affordable track use, upgrade your pads and call it a day.

This thread is on a level of its own. hahahah

At the track it's more down to 40mph but do that a couple laps on a 20 min session and yeah you just wasted track fee's for the day.
Local evo with ams ducting kit ,stoptech 4 piston, and cutting cooling ducts into undertray to get air flow still gets abit of fade. So I want to do it right the first time.

If you want real world track feedback, try posting in the motorsports sections. In my experience on track and seeing what people have done in this forum, there arent' many people using big brake kits. From a cost to benefit standpoint, most performance minded people would start with better fluids, pads, and cooling ducts, and better vented rotors before getting an expensive brake kit. RB Competition also makes stainless steal brake pistons to help ward off heat. Its all about heat dissipation to prevent fade.

Food for thought, the 2 time WTAC winning SunAuto Evo used stock Brembos. Many of the fastest time attack cars in the country uses stock Brembos.

If you try to compare why Evos don't have marketability for larger brakes like other cars, that is because the consumer doesn't demand it. For the most part, Evo owners are relatively satisfied with the stock setup, with minor upgrades to pads and fluids.

Thanks for the feedback, those are all the obvious things to do before hand. Keep in mind no time attack car would survive a 5 minute lapping session much less a 20 minute.
Guess you guys have never seen a tight track before.

That's a good point, but in a 20 min HPDE, you're also not racing. Something to think about is how the driver is braking. Technique also makes a big difference.

What is this guy going on about? There are hundreds of guys that track their Evos for years with the stock brembo system with just upgraded pads and fluid with no issues.

I am one of them. Ryan Gates is another, bunch of other time attack and HPDE cars I've supported and tuned over the last decade do, yada yada yada.

Sounds like OP doesn't have actual real world experience in this.

The stock system with a brake pad and fluid upgrade works just fine, with some cooling add ons for the real fast guys. I suggest working on braking technique more than opening your wallet for a 380mm brake system.

I have st-40's on my rx7 and overheat (in 2 laps) at the same track with the evo being heavier and having more power it's not going to get any better.
I'm not paying for a track day, only to be doing cool down laps during my 20 min track time.
Maybe you guys like the idea of a sunday drive and shooting the **** on a track day instead of real driving.

The Brits have been tracking evos for two decades. Contact AP Racing or Alcon, tell them your needs, and have your credit card ready. Shipping is a drop in the bucket compared to the cost of the brake kit.

Sounds like you have to work more on braking technique than anything if you are over heating a cars braking system in two laps, or better pads, and/or better fluid, all of which have already been stated in this thread, multiple times.

As far as real driving, some of the Evos I referenced where cars that hold track records and TA records and also Evos driven in advanced levels of HPDE with low lap times to prove their worth. Also look at Ryan Gates (who I referenced already) who uses the stock brembos with upgraded pads, rotors and fluid on a even heavier Evo 10. He is not slow by any means. As far as my own experience, I have ran 5-6 20-25 minute full sessions per track day with stock brembos with upgraded pads and upgraded fluid with no issues, in advanced level class at track days with low lap times for the specific track(s).

Again, the common issue by people new to tracking cars is incorrect braking technique. Work on the technique and magically brakes last longer and work better.

At this point, logic and referenced facts have been presented to you in this thread by people that have years and years of experience tracking Evos, we even corrected you saying 380mm brake systems are available for the Evo. Yet you still are about conflict and arguing.

Do you even own and track an Evo?

I wish you the best of luck in your future endeavors.

start with Rotors, pads, ducting and some Castrol SRF

I prefer stateside parts and support.

Can you enlighten me with some braking techniques to prevent brake fade without having to do cool down laps during a 20 min session? Its simple physics heat + time to either absorb heat and dissipate it or boiling the fluid. If your doing a tap dance on your brake pedal it's not going to change things. Here is my proposal bring your evo out here and get a 1:16 on the track posted with stock brembo's(without a slower than 1:20 lap in 20 min session) and i'll pay you the same price as the BBK to achieve that time without needing to get said BBK.

Have you missed the part about the other evo at the same track getting fade on stoptechs as well? Are you going to blame it on technique too? Ps he placed 2nd in class at the local hill climb event. He might have a clue as to what he's doing.

What is sad is how people that drive a car called the evolution is so backwards when it comes to brake evolution when the same calipers have been used in the 7-9.
May as well throw a b18a in there then i'll never go fast enough to overheat the stock brakes.
PS. My evo and the one I referenced are both north of 500whp on a tight track with no big sweepers to cool brakes on.

There is a reason you see AP Racing and Alcon brakes under all of the top motorsport cars..../ you say you don't want to sacrifice, and do it correct the first time - that is the correct way to do it. It appears your not worried about any type of budget - so you should contact Alcon, they will set you up and provide you all the support you could want ( at around 8k for front and rear). I would just go ahead and order 4 or 5 sets of different compound to get the combo set up correctly (another 1k+ ).
http://www.alconkits.com/custom-filt...7%5B%5D=313034

Whats troubling is Alcon doesn't show any replacement rotors or 380mm caliper rebuild kits.