Stock Longblock & FP Black
#1
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
Stock Longblock & FP Black
Well, it's been 3 weeks since the tune so I figured I should stop being lazy and post up the outcome. When I bought the car over a year and a half ago I had every intention of keeping it stock - and I did. Until I sent the #4 rod out the block on the factory engine by doing something stupid that I should've known better not to do. Hard lesson learned.
Swapped in a completely stock, fresh 4B11T with 30k miles out of a 2009 Ralliart, and decided to 'go for broke' within the budget on the stock, unopened longblock. The car was tuned by John Whalen in Michigan and I couldn't be happier with the outcome and the way this thing drives. I drive the car about 125 miles daily to and from work, and take it everywhere as long as there's no salt on the ground during the winter months. Here is what's done to it:
Engine
- Stock longblock 4B11T
- NGK 1422 (ILKR8E6) plugs
- Rotella T6 5W40 & WIX filter
Intake & Exhaust
- MAP Rev2 3.5" Intake
- UltimateRacing UICP
- Stock LICP
- Depo 4" intercooler
- Forge BOV recirculated
- AFI tubular manifold
- JB FP Black w/ ported hotside
- 3" tubular downpipe w/ wastegate dump
- 3" custom test pipe
- 3" Magnaflow catback
- DrivenFab catch can
Fuel
- Walbro 255LPH
- MAP Pump install kit
- FIC 1000cc Injectors
Drivetrain & Transmission
- Shep Racing diff pins
- New 3-4 hub/slider & roll pin
- Magnus Evo 8/9 CMC kit
- Stainless clutch line
- New clutch slave w/ restrictor delete
- ACT Streetlite flywheel
- Competition Clutch 6-puck sprung
- Amsoil MTG in transmission
- OEM Diaqueen in transfercase & rear diff
Electronics & Monitoring
- AEM UEGO 30-4110
- ProSport boost gauge
- Grimspeed 3-port EBCS
Here are the final numbers, tuned on straight pump 94. 3rd gear:
3rd & 4th gear:
The car:
I still have to get the intake pipe/heat shield, as well as the BOV tube powdercoated black to match the rest of the engine bay black theme, but that will come eventually. Same with black couplers for the BOV. Videos to come as well.
Thanks for looking!
Swapped in a completely stock, fresh 4B11T with 30k miles out of a 2009 Ralliart, and decided to 'go for broke' within the budget on the stock, unopened longblock. The car was tuned by John Whalen in Michigan and I couldn't be happier with the outcome and the way this thing drives. I drive the car about 125 miles daily to and from work, and take it everywhere as long as there's no salt on the ground during the winter months. Here is what's done to it:
Engine
- Stock longblock 4B11T
- NGK 1422 (ILKR8E6) plugs
- Rotella T6 5W40 & WIX filter
Intake & Exhaust
- MAP Rev2 3.5" Intake
- UltimateRacing UICP
- Stock LICP
- Depo 4" intercooler
- Forge BOV recirculated
- AFI tubular manifold
- JB FP Black w/ ported hotside
- 3" tubular downpipe w/ wastegate dump
- 3" custom test pipe
- 3" Magnaflow catback
- DrivenFab catch can
Fuel
- Walbro 255LPH
- MAP Pump install kit
- FIC 1000cc Injectors
Drivetrain & Transmission
- Shep Racing diff pins
- New 3-4 hub/slider & roll pin
- Magnus Evo 8/9 CMC kit
- Stainless clutch line
- New clutch slave w/ restrictor delete
- ACT Streetlite flywheel
- Competition Clutch 6-puck sprung
- Amsoil MTG in transmission
- OEM Diaqueen in transfercase & rear diff
Electronics & Monitoring
- AEM UEGO 30-4110
- ProSport boost gauge
- Grimspeed 3-port EBCS
Here are the final numbers, tuned on straight pump 94. 3rd gear:
3rd & 4th gear:
The car:
I still have to get the intake pipe/heat shield, as well as the BOV tube powdercoated black to match the rest of the engine bay black theme, but that will come eventually. Same with black couplers for the BOV. Videos to come as well.
Thanks for looking!
#4
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Not laggy at all. Great numbers. Must be nice to have good pump gas. Could probably make 500whp with cams.
#5
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
The tune is conservative, I reviewed it afterwards and there is still room to add timing. Torque is relatively low for safety, and the horsepower does not stop climbing. Reminds me a lot of a 600cc sport bike.
I kind of regret not doing cams when the engine was out, however that may be a project for the winter. In all honesty, I am happy with the way the car drives for straight pump gas, daily driven car.
I kind of regret not doing cams when the engine was out, however that may be a project for the winter. In all honesty, I am happy with the way the car drives for straight pump gas, daily driven car.
#7
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
It really is. Goes through the gears pretty quick. It's semi retired for the season, I'm gonna do all the storage stuff to it and park it for the winter very soon. I plan to do a few more things to it and 'get John to retune it next season. The only thing I've changed since then is the catback to a single exit. I am toying with the idea of cams still, but definitely need to upgrade the fuel system. Probably the pump and add an AFPR.
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#9
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
I've been reading about the CZ4A chassis and 4B11 engine for a while prior to getting my car, and somehow through all that reading I seemed to keep missing the "low fuel, hard left, big boost" issue these cars have. So I went out for a drive to the next city around some sweepers to get to the outlook I frequent one night, and I was low on fuel. About 1/4 tank. Bugger is, I still remember asking myself literally moments before if I should get gas now or on the way back, and told myself I would on the way back. Anyways, I turned right onto the road which immediately had a long left hand sweeper. I hit the sweeper in second, and rolled on the throttle coming out. Hit full boost, winded it out for about 1000rpm and it let go in second.
All the fuel sloshed over to the right hand side of the fuel tank when the pump is on the left behind the driver while I was on this sweeper. When I hit it, the pump starved and the engine leaned out. It was my own ignorance and my own fault it happened. Had I known better, I could've either gotten fuel or just kept it easy on the throttle on the way out and I would've likely still been on the factory engine right now. It ran great and was super healthy even at 138k miles at the time. Again this was entirely my fault and I should have known better. The car has been great to me otherwise and I drive it a lot and pretty hard.
Maintain it well, drive it hard, have fun with it and don't do dumb ignorant stuff like I did and it will last you a long time
All the fuel sloshed over to the right hand side of the fuel tank when the pump is on the left behind the driver while I was on this sweeper. When I hit it, the pump starved and the engine leaned out. It was my own ignorance and my own fault it happened. Had I known better, I could've either gotten fuel or just kept it easy on the throttle on the way out and I would've likely still been on the factory engine right now. It ran great and was super healthy even at 138k miles at the time. Again this was entirely my fault and I should have known better. The car has been great to me otherwise and I drive it a lot and pretty hard.
Maintain it well, drive it hard, have fun with it and don't do dumb ignorant stuff like I did and it will last you a long time
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XProjectEvo (Dec 18, 2017)
#11
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
Yeah that is the simplest and cheapest remedy. Keep gas in the tank, or don't drive like an idiot lol the more complicated and expensive fix is to install a surge tank. If I was building a track car, I definitely would have a surge tank and an upgraded engine oil cooler at the top of the list.
I guess I can update since it's now winter here and the car is parked, it trapped 122mph in the 1/4 mile when I had it at the drag strip.
I guess I can update since it's now winter here and the car is parked, it trapped 122mph in the 1/4 mile when I had it at the drag strip.
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