Then.. what would be the best way to install a boost guage like the Defi Racer and avoid (as much as possible) installing no T's ?

 

Boost gauge should T from the line going from the BOV to the intake Manifold.

 

Don't install a Boost gauge to the BCS.

T it off a vac line on the intake manifold.

 

Anybody?

 

They stock producing it, now its 3x the price. I would go with Pierburg/Prosport. I am using the MAC valve from evoDynamics and we had to crank up the duty cycle to 95% at the upper RPM range to hold boost well. While the GM/Pierburg require a bit less. I am probably going to switch to something else once I get the CBRD turbo and cams.

 

Thanks for the heads up. And in case you haven't seen it, here's a thread mrfred made comparing the Prodrive, GM, AEM (MAC) et al BCSs: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...ting-data.html. The findings in that thread seem to be in line with what you've observed. Thanks again.

 

I would say those tests are pretty spot on. The AEM holds the boost steadily however, you just need more duty cycle to do it. I think I will upgrade to the Pierburg or GM when I go to a larger turbo and cams down the road, but for now it works well.

 

Good info guys. I'll be going to a 3 port soon. I'm spiking over 38lbs on cold days and holding 33lbs on hot days... I need something thats more consistant!

 

Do you still have any of these plugs you could sell? If not, could you help with some info on where to find it, part #,... My GM 3-port came in yesterday and I'm trying to avoid having to hack up the stock harness to get the GM pigtail in there. Thanks.

 

So I got the Taxtrix setup which is actually a Pierburg with a harness made by tactrix. Before I go ahead with the install, just wanted to confirm I have the right idea... I'm going to turn this into a How-to when I'm done.

1) Disconnect the vaccum hoses from both stock boost control solenoid T's

2) Disconnect the vaccum hoses from the WGA, Turbo, and Turbo Inlet Nipples.

3) Disconnect the stock wiring harness to the Reactive (brown) boost control solenoid

4) Leave the stock wiring harness to the Passive (black) boost control solennoid connected

5) Connect new vaccum hoses to 3-Port per photo markings

6) Use included wiring harness to bridge the gap between the 3-Port and the stock Reactive (brown) wiring harness

7) Tune

 

And now a newb question to go with that...

I assume we leave the passive solenoid plugged in so the ECU doesn't freak out and that the Passive Solenoid maps are now effectivly disabled as far as tuning goes??

 

^ Just replumb all the vacuum lines.. That way you keep the old one as stock, and you dont have to worry about pills.

If you want to remove the twin-2-port you can - but you will throw P0248, however I have a fix for that DTC

 

Run straight vac lines off the new 3 port, no Tee's, no pills

 

Is the single replacing both units or only one?

 

both units...

as in you only have 1 BCS controlling boost.

whether you physically disconnect the second one from the wiring harness is upto you.

P0248 will popup if you do - but I have a fix for that (see DTC disable thread)