Hey guys,

I just had my 15K service done. I did the whole works with the transfer case flush. Car runs super smooth. However it was brought to my attention during the service that my car needed a reflash since my software was not up to date. I had it reflashed once already. Car runs super smoother however in 5th gear at around 3000 RPM the car will stutter and hesitate. This happened to me before in 2nd and 3rd gear when i first got the car without the reflash but after the reflash I was money and there was no problems. Now everything runs well except on the highway when i'm in 5th gear at around 3000RPM the car will occasinally hesitate, stutter etc. Do you guys think its the software? What do you guys reccomend?

 

what is all invloved in the 15 maintenace

 

Could be quite a few things, did they replace spark plugs? If the gap is too wide you can get that type of hesitation even with zero knock. Another thing might be a boost leak of some sort, check all your hose clamps and make sure the everything looks good underhood. The stock flash from Mitsu, even the latest, is still way rich with high timing so likely a good tune for 11.0-11.5 AFR's along with appropriate timing and increased boost will clean up the rotten factory tune.

 

Oil/Filter Change, Brake Fluid Change, Inspection of chassis, brake pads, Tire rotation, Topping off of all fluids. Reflash and Transfer Case Fluid Change was added.

 

My plugs were not replaced. I'll check for boost leaks but i doubt thats the case because it only happens in 5th at 3000 RPM. Its ANNOYING!

 

Dealerships scare me.

 

^me too!

 

The dealership that changed my oil for the last oil change done (since mitsu gave me a free one), told me that synthetic wasnt covered on the free oil change (and that it wasnt necessary). I told them dont put conventional in there or Ill beat someone with a stick. Then they wanted to argue about Mobil 1 synthetic. I told them Mitsu sent me the email, and they recommend Mobil 1 full synthetic ... so why would they want the dealer to put a diff kind in.

Needless to say, I will not be taking my car back there EVER!!! Free or not.

Sorry I had to rant about dealerships ... those places are horrible.

 

It happens to me before with other cars
When they said free oil change, they mean regular oil, meaning $20 something free
Synthetic cost $80 something here in Florida to change. Meaning they won't give you for free.
Get use to.
My plastic plug cover have a sticker on it that say: Use only Mobil one synthetic Oil.
I don't know if is an standard from factory sticker, but i always said to the sales guy about it and he shut his mouth up and use Mobil 1.
Looks like they have a good business selling Pennzoil instead Mobil.
Anyway, I found out that is better to go for a really cheap shop, buy your oil and stay with the guy that change the oil all the time looking at him. if is posible wear a couple of sun glasses kind of FBI agent, so he freak-out and work like a champ.
Or do it your self. Keep all the receives, keep records, take photos, etc

 

can you just decline the reflash, and proceed with the other things?

 

I'm hella embarassed (I be tha tech that worked on R0ME0's X). It probably is the flash, because that's the only thing we did that would affect driveability.

I figured out that you can reflash back to the previous flash. When you put the Medic on auto-select it will only give the latest flash, but you can manually chose from the list of all flashes. I kept the printout of what was in it before so we can put back exactly what was there before. And we can do it NC.

shows to go you, maybe a long test drive on the freeway is necessary to make sure it's all good. We just went a mile or so on the surface streets and it seemed fine.

 

Yes, just trying to add some value to the 15K which IMHO is maybe a little lacking. It's not paid by warranty unless someone has a complaint, I was just doing it as a matter of principle, like auto-updates on Windows XP/Vista.

the Iridiums in the 4B11 aren't recommended until 105K (?). You could do them at about 60K if you're really hard on your car but they are real expensive.

hey hey hey hey hey (translated dog barking)

dealerships get a bad rap, some deserve it but there's good and bad ones, just like there's good and bad techs. Sometimes there's a bad or so-so dealer with some good techs, sometimes a good dealer with bad techs. The best thing to do is get to know the tech.

Dealerships are necessary because that's the only place you can get warranty parts/repair, and the only place with the Medic for some codes. Usually the tech is an expert on your car also, unlike the average independent tech. In general the dealer tech knows what's wrong without a lot of looking around for the problem and replacing stuff it doesn't need.

that works for an oil change but it might get difficult for a T-belt. Some shops have viewing windows cuz most won't let you stand over the techs shoulder because of "insurance" reasons.

Here's a story straight from a tech that used to work at a Zip-lube. He says they used to intentionally strip everyone's drain plug that came in. Then they would say, hey someone stripped your drain plug and you need this $35 kit to fix it.

another story, this guy worked 2 stalls down from me a few years ago. He would do a major service, $300. He would do NOTHING to the car. Pull it in his stall, throw all the new parts in the bottom of his box, he wouldn't even change the oil. He did take the tires off so the manager would think he was doing something then he would leave the customers lug lock key on the bench and throw it away the next day. AND the dealer was turning a blind eye, because he was so "fast". He got caught one time cuz the oil filter was AM, but they just talked to him and he kept on business as usual.

And the Midas / Les Swab brake jobs are the worse. They won't "guarantee" the brake job unless you do everything, when you just need pads and a rotor cut. I've seen them replace all the brake calipers while the car is still in warranty. So even IF they needed them, which they don't, you could get them free in warranty. Most Japanese calipers last the life of the vehicle, they take off your good calipers and put on garbage that only lasts 30K. A double whammy. Trading your good parts for bad and charging you for the privilege. And I've heard this straight from Midas etc managers, they hardly ever replace stuff in "guarantee", they usually find a reason to deny the claim.

Of course just like the dealers there are some good independents.

one of these days I'm going to write up some info about the in's and out's of dealing with dealers, auto shops and technicians.

 

Hey Thanks NWM,

I really appreciate you looking into matter. I dont trust any other Mitsu Dealer but yours and you're my preferred tech for sure. I will drop my Monday to revert the flash. Thanks again dude! You're the man!