View Poll Results: Which best describes your oil when you wipe the dipstick on a napkin?
It's dark after less than 1000 miles and it smells like fuel.



119
56.13%
It's maybe a little dark, but I don't really smell fuel.



65
30.66%
Clean as a whistle



28
13.21%
Voters: 212. You may not vote on this poll
Fuel dilution in oil problem
Hmm... I think the lab had your unit time incorrect. They list it as 5130 miles, with 2440 miles on the oil. Thanks for the clarification, I'll update the spreadsheet with this information. That means the analysis of your first change was significantly better than theFLASH's.
Later, Ken
You know at this point I think getting to see the %fuel in an engine running heavier than 5-30 with just 2300mi would be informative. Apa, are you running 10-40 or thereabouts and if, yes, would you consider looking at the %fuel dilution value on your next oil change? BTW the same request goes out to others that are also running heavier weighted oil.
Later, Ken
Later, Ken
i dont have an evo X, i have a IX with all bolt ons nd Jestr tunned.
i will try to get some of those customers to chime in.
Heres the deal Kperez,,,, OILDOC does not build engines AMS does build engines David Buschur does build engines, Paul Nelson ECT ect ect...... if you ask any of these engine builders you will get almost the same answer.
i am not saying Bob (oildoc) is not knowegeable in this arena because he is he has been doing AMSOIL for longer than some of us have been living.
the fact is that when you build an engine you should go with the reccomended oil weight that builder reccomends.
like i said manny of my customers evox and evo8-9 are using this 20-50 but remember they pound on their cars like no one business.
i drive my IX everyday for fun and to go to work therfore i use 10-30 is all i need,,, however i still drive hard
i am not saying Bob (oildoc) is not knowegeable in this arena because he is he has been doing AMSOIL for longer than some of us have been living.
the fact is that when you build an engine you should go with the reccomended oil weight that builder reccomends.
like i said manny of my customers evox and evo8-9 are using this 20-50 but remember they pound on their cars like no one business.
i drive my IX everyday for fun and to go to work therfore i use 10-30 is all i need,,, however i still drive hard
Got off the phone with Oil Doc and he says the engine was designed for the 5-30W oil and basically discourages the use of higher weight oils. So I am now more confused than ever; AMS says yes to higher weights, Oil Doc says no. Although in all fairness AMS did not say the lighter weight oil was THE cause of excessive fuel entry, rather he just suggested going to heavier weight oils.
I am not certain but fuel dilution existed for the 4G63T engine but not to the extent we have observed in the 4B11T engine. Since one major difference between these two engines is the aluminum block in the latter, I wonder if there are any differences in the time to reach operating temperatures for these two engines? If an alluminum head and block takes longer to warm up than one with only the head as aluminum, then this might be the reason for the higher %fuel in the 4B11T engine. Just something to think about before going to bed tonight!
Later, Ken
I am not certain but fuel dilution existed for the 4G63T engine but not to the extent we have observed in the 4B11T engine. Since one major difference between these two engines is the aluminum block in the latter, I wonder if there are any differences in the time to reach operating temperatures for these two engines? If an alluminum head and block takes longer to warm up than one with only the head as aluminum, then this might be the reason for the higher %fuel in the 4B11T engine. Just something to think about before going to bed tonight!
Later, Ken
I hear what you are saying but are these builders using heavier weighted oils to reduce fuel dilution or to counter the expected elevated temperatures from these modified engines?
Later, Ken
Later, Ken
I just sent Oil Analyzers a sample of AMSOIL SS 0W-30 that was in the car for 3000 miles (to the mile
) on the stock tune. And part of me is wishing I'd saved a sample from my first oil change which had 4000 miles on it, with ~2000 miles of roadtrip/freeway commuting plus the break-in period.
) on the stock tune. And part of me is wishing I'd saved a sample from my first oil change which had 4000 miles on it, with ~2000 miles of roadtrip/freeway commuting plus the break-in period....after EXACTLY (to the mile) 3000 miles I'm at 4.9% dilution by volume.
I'll post my Results Sheet when I can.
Hey guys, I am a former Mitsubishi owner, which is why I occasionally visit this site. I am also a daily visitor at the BITOG forums (bobistheoilguy): http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php
That forum is dedicated to all things lubrication related. I have seen literally 100s of UOAs posted there, and cannot recall seeing any of them with fuel dilution as high as what is being reported in this thread. Fuel dilution of greater than 3% is highly unusual, from what I have seen at BITOG. Other motors prone to excessive fuel dilution are the Audi direct injected V8, the BMW twin turbo six, and the Mazda direct injected turbo 4. Fuel dilution under 1% is considered optimum.
One member of BITOG, who owned an Audi RS4 with the direct injected V8, was seeing fuel dilution between 2-3%, and elevated iron in his UOA reports. He went to considerable expense trying different oils, and doing multiple UOAs, obtaining the services of a tribologist, and finally settled on 5W40HD from Renewable Lubricants. This oil gave him reduced fuel dilution, reduced iron in the UOA, and longer change intervals. You can read more about it here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...893022&fpart=1
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...313219&fpart=1
If you want feedback from certified oil nuts, post your UOAs at BITOG forums, in the UOA section.
For readily available, OTC oils, Pennzoil Platinum is considered to be among the best at resisting damage from fuel, certainly better than M1.
If you are looking for more than just numbers on a UOA, I would recommend Dyson Analysis. They cost 4X more than Blackstone or Oil Analyzers ($99), but you will get a detailed audio report (along with a written report) explaining what the numbers actually mean, and you will get a credible and effective plan on how to reduce the fuel dilution. And they will recommend specific oils and fuel additives to combat fuel dilution.
I have used both Blackstone and Dyson. Blackstone is good for routine analysis on a well tuned motor, but when I started seeing elevated fuel (1.8%) and elevated bearing wear (high lead and tin) in my turbocharged Subaru Legacy, I went to Dyson for effective help.
That forum is dedicated to all things lubrication related. I have seen literally 100s of UOAs posted there, and cannot recall seeing any of them with fuel dilution as high as what is being reported in this thread. Fuel dilution of greater than 3% is highly unusual, from what I have seen at BITOG. Other motors prone to excessive fuel dilution are the Audi direct injected V8, the BMW twin turbo six, and the Mazda direct injected turbo 4. Fuel dilution under 1% is considered optimum.
One member of BITOG, who owned an Audi RS4 with the direct injected V8, was seeing fuel dilution between 2-3%, and elevated iron in his UOA reports. He went to considerable expense trying different oils, and doing multiple UOAs, obtaining the services of a tribologist, and finally settled on 5W40HD from Renewable Lubricants. This oil gave him reduced fuel dilution, reduced iron in the UOA, and longer change intervals. You can read more about it here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...893022&fpart=1
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...313219&fpart=1
If you want feedback from certified oil nuts, post your UOAs at BITOG forums, in the UOA section.

For readily available, OTC oils, Pennzoil Platinum is considered to be among the best at resisting damage from fuel, certainly better than M1.
If you are looking for more than just numbers on a UOA, I would recommend Dyson Analysis. They cost 4X more than Blackstone or Oil Analyzers ($99), but you will get a detailed audio report (along with a written report) explaining what the numbers actually mean, and you will get a credible and effective plan on how to reduce the fuel dilution. And they will recommend specific oils and fuel additives to combat fuel dilution.
I have used both Blackstone and Dyson. Blackstone is good for routine analysis on a well tuned motor, but when I started seeing elevated fuel (1.8%) and elevated bearing wear (high lead and tin) in my turbocharged Subaru Legacy, I went to Dyson for effective help.
Thanks Sub for the info. You have suggested some oil remedies, basically higher weight oil (as some others have done herein) and brand. I wonder in your passing through this issue have you found the sources of the excessive fuel dilution. For example, in the Bimmer V8 or Audi, did anyone investigate the source of the entry: rich A/F, injectors, etc and if so, could you provide same? Thanks.
Later, Ken
Later, Ken
Interesting info on the BITOG forums. So they used a custom formulation of blended/mixed oils? I am weary of that, as not all additive packages are compatible, and mixing different oils is generally not recommended. Either way, even if a custom boutique oil works at reducing fuel dilution, it's still a band-aid and doesn't solve the problem at the source. I will personally continue to run amsoil, as I believe it to be the best oil on the market, and will just change it every 2k miles until this problem is solved. I hope someone can figure this out soon...
Thanks Sub for the info. You have suggested some oil remedies, basically higher weight oil (as some others have done herein) and brand. I wonder in your passing through this issue have you found the sources of the excessive fuel dilution. For example, in the Bimmer V8 or Audi, did anyone investigate the source of the entry: rich A/F, injectors, etc and if so, could you provide same? Thanks.
Later, Ken
Later, Ken
".........RLI BIOSYN is the only oil I am seeing work well in DI RS4 or 2.0 Audi or the BMW bi turbo 3.0 I6 in the 335I. They both are killing every oil I used to recommend. I am not kidding and have no interest in promoting one oil over the other.
reb03, the M1 0w40 should not be run longer than 1000 miles to be safe.. Audi and BMW know they are having problems but are marketing tied to certain LARGE oil company that sponsors BITOG thus they cannot speak out about it.
GC 0w30 green might work well here but the fuels chemistries have changed so much that it may be out of date to protect as well as I would want to see.
I asked the BMW 335i customer to post his Dyson raw data here and chime in, whether he is crazy enough to do that I can't say. The raw trended data will scare you straight................."
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...981168&fpart=1
In my Subaru I ended up replacing all four injectors, at 17,000 miles, on my 100% stock motor. My last UOA from Dyson showed greatly reduced bearing wear, and my fuel was down to 1.0%
Interesting info on the BITOG forums. So they used a custom formulation of blended/mixed oils? I am weary of that, as not all additive packages are compatible, and mixing different oils is generally not recommended. Either way, even if a custom boutique oil works at reducing fuel dilution, it's still a band-aid and doesn't solve the problem at the source. I will personally continue to run amsoil, as I believe it to be the best oil on the market, and will just change it every 2k miles until this problem is solved. I hope someone can figure this out soon...
http://www.RenewableLube.com/pdf/Bio...otor%20Oil.pdf
Yes, I agree whatever oil you use, it is a band aid, and does not address the cause of the fuel dilution. But if the cause can not be remedied, then you will need a good band aid.
Here is a link on how flash point is used to determine fuel dilution:
http://www.oilanalysis.com/article_d...up=Maintenance
And here are two links to help you understand UOAs:
http://www.oilanalysis.com/article_d...up=OilAnalysis
http://www.oilanalysis.com/article_d...up=OilAnalysis
http://www.oilanalysis.com/article_d...up=Maintenance
And here are two links to help you understand UOAs:
http://www.oilanalysis.com/article_d...up=OilAnalysis
http://www.oilanalysis.com/article_d...up=OilAnalysis
I got my oil sample results this morning. Like STI, I had mine done by Oil Analyzers.
Again, my only mod is an Ecutek tune.
3300 miles on the sample. I had the tune for every mile on the sample.
12,000 miles on the car now.
BTW, I never boost or push the car with a cold engine.
Fuel Vol. 4.7%
Viscosity 8.1
Nitration 25
The comment to the report reads in relevant part:
Infrared results indicate that NITRATION is at a SIGNIFICANT LEVEL; FUEL DILUTION is at a MODERATE LEVEL; FUEL DILUTION has caused viscosity to decrease moderately.
..........
Again, my only mod is an Ecutek tune.
3300 miles on the sample. I had the tune for every mile on the sample.
12,000 miles on the car now.
BTW, I never boost or push the car with a cold engine.
Fuel Vol. 4.7%
Viscosity 8.1
Nitration 25
The comment to the report reads in relevant part:
Infrared results indicate that NITRATION is at a SIGNIFICANT LEVEL; FUEL DILUTION is at a MODERATE LEVEL; FUEL DILUTION has caused viscosity to decrease moderately.
..........
Your oil has sheared down to a 5W20. And nitration is definitely high. In my Subaru I am seeing nitration at 7-8. From one of the links I posted: "........As with sulfation, nitration is the reaction of the oil with combustion by-products of nitrogen. These reactions tend to become more pronounced at higher temperatures. Therefore, increased nitration is often an indication of increased blow-by, as the hot combustion gases react with the oil........"
And fuel dilution of 4.7% is sky high, IMO, for a modern fuel injected motor. Did you get your oil nice and hot before taking the sample?
Last edited by SubLGT; Feb 1, 2009 at 03:03 PM.
The correct numbers are:
UNIT TIME: 7035 miles
LUBE TIME: 3000 miles

