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FWIW A good friend of mine was running an AMS 750R turbo kit on a stock block. It made a ton of power was a blast to drive but it was on that edge. Its all about what you want...peace of mind with a modest gain in power or a HUGE power increase but in the back of your mind...what if this thing slings itself apart
well im used to the subaru platform...anything north of 450whp is a a razor sharp edge to a really high cliff....the 4b11t obviously handles power much MUCH better. still paranoid enough to proceed with caution
Subaru would be your first problem... The 2nd is the HP doesn't matter, its the torque that kills. And it barely touches 400 and tapers down to 350. That car is very safe as long as the tune was good, and I'm sure an AMS tune is just fine.
I'm on the same boat but with the difference that I have all bolt ons and suspension already cover.
Looking to get more out of the evo.
2.2 comes into mind so I can have a better choice in turbos down the road.
Op
Which route did u end up going with??
I've seen too many people change the stock turbo without doing anything to the motor and blowing up over the years. I'd build first then strap the turbo on after.
Its really personal preference. If I were in your shoes, depending on your end goal, I would shell out the money now to build the motor. Then as far as turbos afterwards, you have more of a choice bc the motor can handle it. I know everyone says the stock motor can can about 380-400tq, but I personally would like to have more torque than that to play with knowing my motor could handle it, while also making insane HP numbers too. Just my .02
I fully agree with this. I've had my 2008 EvoX since November 2010 and I have rebuilt the center differential (which punched a hole in the side of the case), the transfer case (tailshaft housing backed off and cooked the pinion), 2 clutch master cylinders, 2 clutches, put TeIn coilovers on it and took them off a year and a half later (cuz they suck and are too stiff for daily driving) and replaced with OEM Billsteins & H&R Springs, replaced rear subframe because a shop overtightened a lug nut and stripped out the stud causing the whole knuckle to slop around, thus wearing out the camber groove, replaced both front wheel bearings.
Car has 72k, only drove it the first winter I had it, autocrossed a few times, launched a few times, drag raced at a track a couple times, nothing crazy.
I have every bolt on imaginable except a fuel rail, GSC S2 cams, MAP EF2.5 turbo, bigger manifolds, I put down 410/337@27psi. Now I have an issue with cylinder 4. Something may be bouncing around in the cylinder and smashing the spark plug closed. But odds are the rod bearing is worn and the piston is coming up just slightly too high at 8k rpm redline.
Point is...DO ALL SUPPORTING MODS BEFORE PUTTING ANY AMOUNT OF POWER INTO YOUR CAR. THESE THINGS AREN'T BUILT WITH THE HIGHEST QUALITY STUFF. Please do so. You don't want to have a car payment and insurance on a vehicle that is a damn lawn ornament time and time again. Or even just once.
Build the engine (block), build the drivetrain (clutch, transfer case, short shifter & bushings), build the suspension (roll center kit, springs/struts, maybe a rear sway bar). Aside from the cams, you can add all the power in your driveway, part by part.
I recommend doing breathing mods first (intake, exhaust, intercooler & piping) then tune it. Then add fuel mods (injectors, pump, FPR & 3 port electronic boost controller) then tune it. Then go big with flow mods (turbo, manifolds, throttle body) and tune it.
If you don't build the block you're going to limit the torque. The torque levels are what limit the boost levels. If you want torque (which you will...trust me) you MUST build the bottom end. 4B11T has a forged crank but not rods or pistons. IF YOU BUILD IT, THEY WILL COME...actually if you build it, you can get 9k rpms and gobs of torque.
I can't speak for the power level abuse stock axles/driveshaft can handle though. Good luck!!!
The other benefit of building the block first is you avoid paying twice for the supporting hardware. If you go MHI w E85 now you will need larger injectors and fuel pump. Then if you build it and go with a bigger turbo (you will) you'll likely need still larger injectors and pump. Same could be said for your clutch.
I have an MHI on E85 that put down 415whp on a mustang dyno. It is crazy fun, but I know short lived. I'll have to build the block at some point and replace my entire fuel system.
