TravisF

iTrader: (1)

No, it's called UV rays and cheap/thin paint. The clear coat on my spoiler is now totally spider webbed/bubbly as well as two spots on my pillars and roof.

ikt

iTrader: (18)

Evo paint isn't that thin, we are all just finicky and notice these things

And actually from an autobody repair point of view, the paint on german cars is very, very thin compared to most japanese cars. I'm not saying it's bad, it's just thin. It really sucks to wetsand. Lexus actually hand wet-sands all their front ends on the higher end models at the factory

Really, though, it's not that it's mitsubishi, it's just that we notice-and, importantly-the SHAPE of the car. Large, flat surfaces like our headlight area, lower hood, and other sharp angles, eat rocks. Bad. If they were smoother angles, rocks tend to scrape lightly. When it's a sharp angle, rocks just plow right into it!

ikt

iTrader: (18)

I've been doing autobody repair and fab for a very, very long time. And have repainted several evos. But even then, don't take my word for it.

Here's a great resource from an OEM supplier, it's gospel:

http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/...PDSG_Home.html



Description
Bubbles or pimples appearing in the topcoat film, application.

Origin and Potential Causes:

• Residue of sanding water in corners, edges, crevices, or below decorative strips.
• Ambient humidity too high.
• Improper surface cleaning or preparation. Tiny specs of dirt left on the surface can act as a sponge and hold mosture. When the finish is exposed to the sun (or abrupt changes in atmospheric pressure), moisture expands and pressure builds up. If the pressure is great enough, blisters form.
• Wrong thinner or reducer. Use of a fast-dry thinner or reducer, especially when the material is sprayed too dry or at an excessive pressure. Air or moisture can be trapped in the film.
• Excessive film thickness. Insufficient drying time between coats or too heavy application of the undercoats may trap solvents which escape later and blister the color coat.
• Contamination of compressed air lines. Oil, water or dirt in lines.
• When wet sanding polyester and applying topcoat without enough time for the water to evaporate.
• Incompatibility of materials.

=================
For cracks:




Description
A series of deep cracks resembling mud cracks in a dry pond. Often in the form of three-legged stars and in no definite pattern, they are usually in the color coat and sometimes the undercoat as well.

Origin and Potential Causes:

• Excessive film thickness. Excessively thick topcoats magnify normal stresses and strains which can result in cracking even under normal conditions.
• Materials not uniformly mixed.
• Insufficient flash times between coats.
• Incorrect use of additives.
• Substrate is too hot or cold.
• Use of coats incompatible with each other.
• Omitting the activator when mixing a 2K product.

Autobody companies make specific reducers and hardeners for the Arizona, Nevada, and New Mexico markets due to the heat. If I used a normal hardener in an Arizona summer, the paint would dry before it even hit the panel and I'd just be blowing glitter all over the place. If I used an Arizona reducer/hardener in an Idaho winter, it would never, ever dry. So probably at some point in time, minor repair was made (even if car was purchased brand new), and it was made in a normal climate.

TravisF

iTrader: (1)

So basically Mitsubishi paint and/or their method of painting sucks. Thanks for reinforcing that for everyone.

ikt

iTrader: (18)

Not really, it's expensive PPG paint and applied with robots

If your car hasn't been repaired-Mitsubishi will warranty those defects!!! Bubbling and peeling and cracks aren't supposed to happen, it's rare, but if it did on your car, you can get it repainted by Mitsubishi.

TravisF

iTrader: (1)

This is what is happening to several spots on my car, although not in quite as large blocks as this. Someday I'll actually take a picture:

TravisF

iTrader: (1)

Not on a 6 year old car ...

ikt

iTrader: (18)

7 year, 100,000 miles corrosion
worth a shot

ikt

iTrader: (18)

crazy. I've seen that on a lot of APR wings and Evo8/9 wings on the spoiler top coat. On those it has to do with where water pools and evaporates that eventually dissolves the clearcoat, and on the 8/9 wing, same story, except the massive amount of wind that hits that part will also do it. If yours looks like this, that's not nearly as bad as bubbles or cracks like the above post. That can be fixed pretty easy/cheap and some of it you can actually do yourself

peterchoi425

Has the paint issue been fixed for 2014? or is it still trash

SpoonTunage

I recently purchased an evo x gsr and currently it has about 260 miles. I was reading all of this stuff about 3m, xpel and other things. Now I realize many are stating that they are getting paint chips on the side skirts and rear quarter panel and that the 3m or xpel will help alot. Then I see others saying it didn't really help. This is obviously a problem that is a little different then the hood and front bumper because that area is expected. What I am really curious about is if it is worth doing and if so which type of material is best used and where (I am assuming from what I have read to do the front bumper, hood, side mirrors, side skirts and rear quarter panels). If I am not mistaken on all of this what is a good price and for what material? And will it be noticeable? I am just a new evo owner ad would obviously like to protect my car, but also understand these things will happen. Thanks for any advice/input.

richdmz

a clear bra will help a lot with those issues, also installing flaps will help with stuff thrown by the wheels. Clear bra's are not invincible so damage may still occur but usually the bra will take the blunt of the damage and you need that piece of bra replaced. Also smart driving helps (stay away from trucks, etc) and not blasting through debris covered roads. With clear bra's if installed correctly they blend in very nicely. Have areas full covered and wrapped around the edges and it will be hard to tell. Bras are most noticeable when you see the lines (like a partial hood bra). A full wrap installed by a pro would be hard to tell.

Player0

9 months on my 2014 GSR and holy paint chip. I spent all weekend repairing the paint on the 30 year old Porsche and decided to have a look at the evo. The porsche came with clear bras and has stood up a lot better over 30 years than the Evo has over one.

I have a 2007 Outlander in the driveway next to it and it's paint seems to have held up fine. Very few chips, even on the lower portions of the car. Aerodynamics must just be different or the paint is tougher.

Not looking forward to the 30-50 touch up spots I need to apply to the Evo now. I'm not very good at it either, which is a bummer.

morethansamson

Maybe it's a weight savings goal.

The paint on my Evo is not bad at all considering it has almost 42k miles, but one thing that has upset me is the scratches in the paint behind the door handles. I have about 4-5 mm of flesh past the end of my finger nails, and keep my nails short, but even so this is the condition of all four of my door handles.



I very rarely have passengers in the back seat, and my wife has never even sat in the drivers seat much less opened the driver's door.

Tommy Turbo

I would love to hear suggestions on how to repair those scratches behind the handle. Or even if they are scratches at all. My 2011 wicked white GSR has the exact same. All four door handles. Any guidance or explanation would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!