Mitsubishi released a newer black one (sorry I saw the thread months ago, but can't remember enough keywords to pull it up to share)

I had my tuner datalog my baseline dyno pull at the last dynoday and we found no fulling probs under WOT. I have a 2011, and it's with the 2011+ that it was said to have gone in place. So with a 2012, it's likely your relays are fine. This was really a prob for 08-09 Evos, and since the problem has fairly disappeared.

I did ziptie my FPR vac hoses though, since it looks like they could come off just as easy as the earlier years.

 

Most of the newer Evos will come with the green relay for the headlights, and still have the black relay for the fuel pump.

To the OP, if you do install an EBC prior to tuning, do not get on boost when driving your car. Your car will develop as much boost as the turbo can give, and then you have big problems.

 

okay, got it. also- my evo is 2010- is it safe from that issue? ill check when im out of work what color relay I have

and does it matter where the wideband is mounted in the exhaust? ie- distance downstream from the exhaust manifold or turbo?

so my plan is as follows...

day before (or a couple days before since installing the dp and any electronics will probly gimme a tough time) my tune:

-have a boost leak test done already to get that out of the way
-stock up on 4 spark plugs (which plugs should i get though?)
-Have one or two relays on back up (blue or black though)

-install any parts I need to (dp, hfc, cb exhaust, intercoooler)
-get the wideband goin while im doin the exhaust
-install the ebc

last but not least, drive to the tuner thats like 3 hrs away like a freakin grandma. no not those crazy fast grandmas, those grandmas that do like 40% of the speed limit.

any other thought, comments, tips or ideas to add?

please share

 

Really, by asking and learning about what to expect is all the prep you need. From the sound of it, you're more prepared going in for this tune then majority of (lets just say 'non' Evo owners going for a tune on their cars)

The downpipe is a PITA to install, and is often not suggested unless you plan to swap the turbo. However, if you are still going to do a downpipe, I believe the AMS one has the extra bung for the wideband o2 port. Ideally you'd want to install your wideband somewhere between the turbo and the cat (or test pipe area). Many tuners plug a wideband in at your exhaust, and that's actually okay too, but not good for everyday driving around obviously.

All your bolt-ons should be fine to install prior to going in for a tune, however, the 3port might be a good idea if it's installed once you get there. You'll never know when you'll need to go up a hill and the load might cause you to hit some boost.

 

Get Cobb AP + ATR and be done with it

 

i read that for what i want for my evo, a cobb ap isnt really needed, just a tune from a legit shop. bsides, i honestly have no idea what Im doing/looking at when it comes to messing with my afr and fuel maps etc...

 

The suggestion for the AP isn't bad even if you're a n00b. The AP is handy because you can use it for monitoring. It can show boost, af reading from your primary o2, and all the other stuff. Where it's handy is you can use it to datalog too.

So, if you're having a problem, you can read your codes, clear them, then data log and share the logs in a .csv format to share here on the forums.

I had an AP in my STi and then went opensource with my last tune before I sold it. Biggest benefit to the Opensource tune is you're paying for the tune, not for the hardware to flash your car. But the AP is a nice product and it makes stuff very n00b friendly.

I always though my AEM and prosport gauges were easier to read while driving compared to the AP, so going opensource worked really well for me. Either way you go, good luck. I'm sure once you have a tune the car will likely feel much more powerful